Don’t try this at home - we’re trained professionals !

[Rich Bingham]

This one has me baffled ! How did they pull the engine, leaving the pan in the frame, and clear the flywheel with the dash in place ??

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

However it was done, it took 3 men to do it.

[John kuehn]

Maybe the photo was a staged photo with the only engine in the shop to take a pose.

Seems like the mechanics would know you couldn’t get the engine in without the firewall area cleared out. But it does have the service sign on it which I still think it was a staged photo for their photo.
But the crankshaft has a long handle on it to help wrestle the engine block in!

[Craig Leach]

I'm thinking that I will not be having City Garage doing any work for me
Craig.

[RajoRacer]

Pretty sure that's the rope for the chain-fall - not a bar.

[Mark Nunn]

Can anyone decipher thar poster in the upper left? I see 1915 or 1916?

[Mark Gregush]

And it has gas headlights!

[Sean Butler]

Two digit phone number.

[kevinf]

Rich, I am with you baffled! Not just as to how but why?????
Kevin

[Scott C.]

Take a closer look. The oil pan appears to be mounted to the bottom of the frame. Or, just setting the floor behind the car?

[DanTreace]

Here’s my take on removing the engine and flywheel trans from under the dash, while the body still appears mounted on the frame.

The chain fall lifts from center opening where balance is provided. Thus man 2 pulls up the engine , (up arrow), allowing tilt ,while man 1 pushes up to clear pan nose, big guy can also pull engine forward as the tilt is made.

All the while man 3 uses the long lift bar with bent handle, hanging over the cowl lamp, to push down (arrow) on the flywheel or coil ring to lever flywheel out of the sump of the crank pan, and helps to clear the firewall.

No fear of magneto damage, as this old T sports an electric horn, so obviously a battery is there for ignition, all the while night driving can be down with the gas lamps.

[RajoRacer]

Dan - I believe that is the radiator brace wrench on top of the sidelamp - I have the same wrench - it's that specific length to clear the radiator whilst removing the nuts.

[Rich Bingham]

Take a closer look. The oil pan appears to be mounted to the bottom of the frame. Or, just setting the floor behind the car?

Sharp eyes, Scott, that needs a critical look. I’m pretty sure what’s mounted to the bottom of the frame is the splash-pan. I need to take a critical look at my T from the same angle to be sure, but it seems to me the pan is in its normal place in the frame, and attached to the wishbone.

[TRDxB2]

Zoomed in...

[RajoRacer]

OR - perhaps that is the pan bolt/nut brace wrench - same size nut.

[KMcoldcars]

Back in 1962 when I did not know it could not be done, I removed the engine block and transmission from my 1926 Tudor sedan. I removed the hood, lights, radiator, and head, unbolted the block and tranny from the pan, removed the starter and hogshead, and lifted the block and tranny out of the car.
Then in about 1970, I did the same with a friends 1911 touring. There was no need to remove the firewall on either car. The engine pan was left in the car.

[Rich Bingham]

Compare - it’s a ‘13, and I “flopped” the image as I couldnt get a shot from the driver’s side, but the angle is close, and the pan and support arm are clearly visible . . .

[Erik Barrett]

Just today we made a tool to replace the camshaft without removing the head and valves, while not using the original tappets with the hole provided for the job per the Ford manual. All things are possible. Ford manual describes a process to change the crankshaft gear without pulling the engine.