No neutral

[Russ T Fender]

I had an engine and transmission rebuilt over 25 years ago but just now installed them in a project I am working on. I was getting ready to start it up with the rear wheels on jackstands but when the hand lever is in the neutral position and before the brake is set the rear wheels are locked. With the hand lever all the way forward the rear wheels turn with the hand crank. Since I was not involved in the rebuild and got the power plant back as a completed unit I don’t know where to begin trying to figure out what’s causing this. I am assuming it is transmission related but before I pull the engine that I just installed and start tearing things apart I was hoping someone might suggest somethings that I can check first on the off chance that I might get lucky.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Model T's that sit for a long time unused, (or maybe even engines that sit for a long time), can develope a "stuck" high speed clutch. Generally, jacking up the rear end and running the engine for a while, until the oil gets hot, will allow the clutch discs to separate and give you a neutral. Try that first, with wheels properly chocked, and with good ventilation, if done in a garage.

[JohnM]

I suspect your emergency brakes are still dragging, disconnect the brake rods and check again before you blame the transmission.

[Norman Kling]

There is normally some drag on the clutch disks. Try lowering the car to the ground if it is parked in a level place. With the engine off and the parking brake in the neutral position, turn the hand crank. If the car does not roll. It is usually about right. Now with the hand lever still in neutral, try pushing the car. If the fan turns. It is too tight. The other thing which could cause it to bind up would be the low band too tight. It should engage about 1 1/2 inches above the floorboard. Sometimes this cannot be obtained if the low cam and low notch are worn out.
Norm

[JohnM]

After ruling out brake drag, do as Jerry suggested. Good advice as usual.

[Russ T Fender]

I know it’s not brake drag so I will try backing off the bands and freeing up the clutch discs. Would it hurt to pull start the car in high gear as I’m not sure I can crank start it with a new tight engine. It’s a 13 without a starter.

[John.Zibell]

I know it’s not brake drag so I will try backing off the bands and freeing up the clutch discs. Would it hurt to pull start the car in high gear as I’m not sure I can crank start it with a new tight engine. It’s a 13 without a starter.

With the back wheels jacked up you may be able to crank start the car in high.

[Norman Kling]

You can pull start it in high but be sure to connect the strap or chain to the frame and not the axle. Also have a way to notify the person pulling you when it is started so he can stop immediately.
Norm

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

I know it’s not brake drag so I will try backing off the bands and freeing up the clutch discs. Would it hurt to pull start the car in high gear as I’m not sure I can crank start it with a new tight engine. It’s a 13 without a starter.

I would not do that. Let's say you got it started. Now you're going down the road with no neutral, so if you need to brake you'll either have to kill the ignition or overpower the engine with the brake. Niether option would be the safest.

Crank starting in neutral should be fairly doable. Some even find it to be helpful, since you're not cranking against clutch friction and since the drivetrain will have a "flywheel" effect which may even help in turning over the engine.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

You can pull start it in high but be sure to connect the strap or chain to the frame and not the axle. Also have a way to notify the person pulling you when it is started so he can stop immediately.
Norm

Norm,

What happens then, when your tow vehicle stops and you can't, since you're locked in high gear?

[Russ T Fender]

That was my concern too but if I can’t get it started on the crank I will keep one hand on the coil box switch and use an extra long tow strap. Since it’s a fresh rebuild and has never been run it’s pretty darn stiff and at 79 I’m not as strong as I used to be!

[speedytinc]

Being so stiff, its going to get hot fast.

If I was handed this, I would have torn the motor down before installing. Timesaver the Babbitt or add 1 shim to each bearing or both.
Take the Transmission apart, check clearances. Was it assembled with lithium grease? Don't know.
It is such an unknown, you don't know if you will be damaging something. Will the valves stick? Nothing has nested in it?
Not a fun prospect, but the safest one. In the end you can be confident the motor will be reliable.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

That was my concern too but if I can’t get it started on the crank I will keep one hand on the coil box switch and use an extra long tow strap. Since it’s a fresh rebuild and has never been run it’s pretty darn stiff and at 79 I’m not as strong as I used to be!

Would it be possible to recruit some "pushers" to get the car rolling? Or maybe, remove the spark plugs and tow the car around until the engine gets loosened up sufficiently to be able to crank start it.

[Moxie26]

Has the clutch lever bolt been adjusted so that the transmission goes in neutral when the parking brake lever is pulled vertical for neutral?