High volume outside oil line

[Dan Hatch]

I installed an outside HV oil line on my 16 when I had to replace a cracked drum. Fast forward cranked it up and I got smoking engine. Was not before. Anyone one seen this? I removed the line and plugged the fittings, smoke gone. I plan to install a needle valve to reduce flow. Any input? Dan

[speedytinc]

Oh yea.
I even modified the input much larger. (More is better, right?)
Sitting @ a light the intake valves sucked up oil. Go time, I got a big cloud.
I put inline A valve to meter oil down. No more cloud.
Keep in mind, you dont want the orifice/metering valve to plug with some internal detritus.
Opening the valve & getting the smoke proves the line clear.

[Oldav8tor]

I have a high volume oil line with no issues. It is positioned over the flywheel to maximize oil flow. Two questions, where does the oil dump out and is it possible the valve guides are worn?

[TXGOAT2]

I used a metering orifice to reduce the flow on mine. A valve would be better. I'd want a valve that opened to a 1/4 bore. That's more than needed, and if it did catch any debris, it would probably flush easily. My oiler with a restrictor has shown no indication of plugging in many thousands of miles of operation. (I have Kevlar bands)

[TXGOAT2]

Oil dumps at the front of the pan. Worn rings would be more likely to allow smoke, and stock T rings aren't the best for oil control. But modern rings in good condition will allow smoke if there is too much oil flooding the engine. Worn guides might contribute, but I think flooding the rings is the main issue.

[Dan Hatch]

Engine was rebuilt before I got the car. Maybe 5000 miles on it now. I don’t know who did the engine. But everything looked good when it was open for transmission repair. Cracked drum. I have a needle valve to reduce flow.
Also thinking about 20w50 oil might help.
Found this oil.

[TXGOAT2]

Don't use thick oil in a Model T. I run 10W30 full synthetic in my car with a Texas T oiler. It smoked a little at idle when I got it, using 0W20 oil and a wide open Texas T oiler. I put a restrictor in the Texas T oil line and eliminated the smoke. I run 10W30 synthetic because it gets very hot here. I haven't had the plugs out in several thousand miles. Oil stays in the engine except for minor leakage. The engine has aluminum pistons and modern rings. Heavy oil is bad for Model T clutches, bearings, cams, and triple gear bushings. It also saps power and fuel economy.

[Moxie26]

Good morning... You guys gave me a reminder on this topic... I have a hydraulic rubber hose connecting the two points which I think needs replacement after 10 years... Last oil change the oil did turn a little dark TimeWise, and maybe from the insides of the black rubber hose tinting the oil. Thanks and have a great family gathering Thanksgiving Day!

[Randall strickland]

Dan the first outside oil line I used was 1/2" and now they are 3/8 I think they changed because of the smoke, I have used both without any smoke,

[TXGOAT2]

Original style rings cannot give the oil control that modern type rings give. Any type of rings installed on used pistons with worn ring lands cannot give good oil control. The mag post type auxiliary oilers don't provide anywhere near the oil volume that the Texas T type provides. The Texas T oiler can over-oil an engine that is in good condition that is driven in normal service. The excess oil is not an issue with engines run in competition or other situations where the engine is running at high loads most of the time.

[Dan Hatch]

This is a 3/8” line version. Engine was supposed rebuilt all way through before it was sold.
But it is a two holer engine. Maybe the guides are leaking too much.

[TXGOAT2]

It's most likely just getting more oil than it can handle. My car had a 1/2" copper line connecting the Texas T hogshead connection to the oil pan. I cut a section out of the copper line with a mini tubing cutter and replaced it with a length of rubber hose. I put a short length of rubber fuel line inside the hose to restrict the flow. That almost eliminated the smoke at idle. I put a piece of electric wire inside the fuel line to further restrict flow, and that eliminated the smoke, even at extended hot idle. A valve instead of a fixed restriction would be better. A needle valve might be too restrictive. I'd suggest a ball type valve or a plug valve with a 1/4 opening. With my setup, there is still a good flow of oil through the oil line, and I assume the original 26-27 internal oil line is still functioning. I've run this engine over 15,000 miles, mostly at speeds of 40 to 45 MPH, with no repairs or adjustments needed except for timer issues caused by a failed set of points. This engine has a stock magneto, aluminum pistons with modern rings, most likely modern type valves, and Kevlar bands in the transmission.

[Rich P. Bingham]

The prior owner of my ‘13 must have been phobic about rod bearings. Slinger connector butchered into the original aluminum hogshead and corresponding surgery on the “teacup” original pan for a 1/2” copper line - plus a late model extra large funnel “stock” oil return line and ! slingers on the rod caps. All to no avail when crud (disintigrating wood band liner, delaminating “turbo” clutch) caused #4 wrist pin to seize.

Rebuilt, sleeved to standard, original cast iron pistons and rings, no oil burning, but the extra flow seems to make it nigh unto impossible to seal up the valve covers, which weep copiously.

[TXGOAT2]

You don't need the extra oil with cast iron pistons and original style rings and the late type funnel. I'm not sure why the valve covers would leak unless the oil can't drain back as it should. If oil is piling up behind the covers, some of it might get past the intake valve guides. When my engine was over-oiling, the front and rear plug would get a little oily. Adjusting the oil flow eliminated that. They all look the same now, and I haven't had a any reason to remove them in thousands of miles of driving. My engine is a '26 with the throttle rod hole in the block. The valve cover does not have a hole, and it has a modified throttle linkage kit. I stuffed a copper mesh pot scrubber into the space between the middle cylinders to help dust and bugs out of the throttle rod hole in the block. I figure it's better off with 2 places for crankcase vapor to vent rather than just one at the filler cap. Having more vent area may reduce oil leakage.

[Rich P. Bingham]

You don't need the extra oil with cast iron pistons and original style rings and the late type funnel . . . Having more vent area may reduce oil leakage.

I agree 100%, but there it is. as I inherited it
Good thought on venting - the breather cap and timing gear cover is quite restricted on the early cars.

[John kuehn]

Using the improved funnel for the front oiling of the crankshaft and the outside oil line that attaches on the top of the transmission cover through the mag terminal seems like it would be enough.

I’ve seen the high volume attachment posts for several years.

Now I’m seeing that for some engines it may not be as necessary and may be to much oil is the result. Interesting

[TXGOAT2]

Over-oiling can lead to nuisance issues. Under-oiling will result in serious damage. If you experience any over-oiling issues with a Texas T type high volume oiler, it's very easy to correct the problem. Over-oiling is very unlikely to occur with a mag post type auxiliary oiler.

[DanTreace]

Put two partial restrictive crimps in the copper line, using blunt clamp end Vice-Grips , to slow oil flow.

Stopped the excessive fouling of #1 plug.