New here and an Introduction

[Tharper]

Good afternoon,

I am new to the wonderful world of the Model T. A little background: I have been involved with the Maine Forest & Logging Museum in Bradley, Maine, for quite a few years now. Back in December, we received a generous donation of two Ford Model TT trucks with Virgil White snowmobile conversions. Needless to say, we are pretty excited about this. One is a 1926, the other is a 1927. However, we suspect the 1927 is a bit of a mix and match.

We are currently working to recommission the 1927. In addition to changing out the fluids, etc., we have replaced the bands since the cotton bands were way, way beyond their expiration date. Hopefully, over the next week, we can rack up some running time to work out any remaining bugs.

We are a Living History museum, meaning that our vehicles and exhibits all function and are operated and demonstrated on a regular basis. In fact, the 1927 TT snowmobile will debut during our Winter in the Woods event on February 7th. As we move forward, we will no doubt be seeking advice.

The TT's will be operated alongside our steam-powered Lombard Log Haulers and Lombard Tractor-Trucks.

[Daisy Mae]

Welcome!
Those are some great TT's. My first T was a Closed Cab stake side TT.
And this beast is a hoot!!! I can only imagine what's required to crank this monster!

https://youtu.be/C9Aomol9494?si=FCnQDN1eyfgjrbws

[TXGOAT2]

Marvelous machines! In cold weather, it is especially important to use the right motor oil in Model Ts. In cold weather, a quality 5W20 or 5W30 is a good choice. In milder weather, 10W30 is a good choice. I use 10W30 full synthetic with excellent results, even in 100F + Texas weather. If I was going to drive in very cold weather, I'd change to 5W20. Oil that is too viscous will cause a number of problems with a Model T engine, transmission, and clutch, and may contribute to failed triple gear bushings. Among other likely problems are a risk of inadequate bearing lubrication, especially on a cold start, hard starting, and clutch drag and "creep" in "neutral". Ford recommended a quality "medium cylinder oil" with a low cold test, which corresponds to a high quality SAE 20W. Modern multi-grade oils out-perform the best oil available in the T era. I have run detergent oil in old engines for the last 60 years with nos issue related to loosened sludge, etc. On the contrary, use of detergent oil has shown to benefit dirty, neglected old engines with stuck rings, noisy lifters, etc.

[Tharper]

Welcome!
Those are some great TT's. My first T was a Closed Cab stake side TT.
And this beast is a hoot!!! I can only imagine what's required to crank this monster!

https://youtu.be/C9Aomol9494?si=FCnQDN1eyfgjrbws

Thanks! Cranking them isn’t too bad. Here is a video of a cold start of the 1919 Lombard. The engine is a 964 CID Sterling Model FT. Ryan was feeling strong that day. It does have electric start. It’s dialed in pretty good. Usually just a couple rolls and it’s bellowing to life. Loves lots and lots of gasoline!

https://youtu.be/wNwMQnAhrjc?si=ZJ9LLs5ytXK_hSzg

[JohnM]

Awesome! How fortunate for your organization! You will find a lot of help and information on this forum. If you haven't already, you should reach out to the Down East chapter of the Model T Ford Club in Maine. They may be interested in helping you get them up and running and some tips on how to operate a T. I could only find a facebook page for them. Hope it's helpful.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1915088 ... on/preview

[Allan]

Big old engines like that were often fitted with a decompression device. When it is engaged, cranking is easy, like turning over a T without spark plugs.The moment the engine fires, the decompression device closes or is closed manually and away she goes.

Allan from down under.

[Tharper]

Marvelous machines! In cold weather, it is especially important to use the right motor oil in Model Ts. In cold weather, a quality 5W20 or 5W30 is a good choice. In milder weather, 10W30 is a good choice. I use 10W30 full synthetic with excellent results, even in 100F + Texas weather. If I was going to drive in very cold weather, I'd change to 5W20. Oil that is too viscous will cause a number of problems with a Model T engine, transmission, and clutch, and may contribute to failed triple gear bushings. Among other likely problems are a risk of inadequate bearing lubrication, especially on a cold start, hard starting, and clutch drag and "creep" in "neutral". Ford recommended a quality "medium cylinder oil" with a low cold test, which corresponds to a high quality SAE 20W. Modern multi-grade oils out-perform the best oil available in the T era. I have run detergent oil in old engines for the last 60 years with nos issue related to loosened sludge, etc. On the contrary, use of detergent oil has shown to benefit dirty, neglected old engines with stuck rings, noisy lifters, etc.

All good info! Thank you!

[South Park Zephyr]

Now I have to convince my wife that coming to Maine in the winter is a good idea…

Wonderful to see them preserved and available to be admired

Feel free to post pics for those of us too far away to visit easily

Scott

[Mike Silbert]

The snowmobile club would probably love to see your machine in action @ one of their events also
http://www.modeltfordsnowmobile.com/

https://www.facebook.com/61557244510838 ... 780241483/

[Tharper]

In addition to the two model TT snowmobiles, we were also gifted a 1914 steam-powered Lombard Log Hauler restored by the late Harry Crooker. It’s been on loan to the museum since 2013 and is now a permanent part of the collection.

This shares space with our 1907 steam-powered Lombard Log Hauler which is fully operational and frequently under steam and out and about during our events. On February 7th we will have it out on skis for the first time in over a decade.

We do have another Model T… to clarify, before you get too excited - it’s an eight-ton, 1928 Lombard Model T dump truck. It’s an interesting beast. It has a four speed Cotta transmission. However, reverse is in the differential and is engaged with a separate lever so you have four speeds forward and in reverse. The hoist is a Garwood mechanical unit.

From time to time it does make itself useful.

[ThreePedalTapDancer]

Fantastic pieces of history.

[Tharper]

Back to the TT

There was little left of the bands in 1927. This also presented our first surprise. When Tim opened up the transmission, we found that it's an older version with the narrow brake band. We have not checked the engine numbers. Both TT's have Warford transmissions.

The drums had some scoring and tapper, but not too deep or bad—no deep rivet gouges.

After a bit of debate and going back and forth, we decided to go with wood bands. Our reasoning, whether flawed or otherwise, is that wood bands might be more gentle on the drums than Kevlar, given novice drivers and less-than-perfect technique. Additionally, and thankfully, Winter doesn't last forever, so it's not like we will be touring for thousands of miles.

We decided to replace the springs as well. Big difference in uncompressed length between the new and old springs!

Tim did have a problem with the magneto cutting in and out. It turned out to be a piece of an old band that had found its way to the Mag post.

The 1926: This is a running chassis. Currently, we are debating what style body to go with. Our first thought was a depot hack or bus so we could carry passengers; however, our insurance underwriter would probably not be happy. They have been great to work with, but they would undoubtedly prefer if we were a "normal" museum with all stuffed and mounted (static) and boring exhibits. In short, we are tolerated, which is understandable.

We are open to suggestions!

Here is A view of the 1926 chassis as we found it. The stack of stuff to the right are runners, and bunks, etc, for two heavy Lombard patent logging sleds.

[Mike Silbert]

The above picture of the transmission shows it is an up to 1925 block and transmission and band, not 1926-27.
It is a matched set and goes together.
The magneto ring coil could really use to be rewrapped but that will open up a barrel of snakes for you.

Serial numbers and engines got swapped around as these vehicles passed through their service life.
Trucks and work vehicles were more prone to this since it just had to work!
Since you are not doing a numbers matching restoration make sure to use what you have and not what it is called on the title.

The type of band is your choice, everyone has their reasons and preference.
But you can wreck even the best parts so careful driving helps the vehicle and parts last longer.
Model T't are made to take rough treatment, but it leads to higher maintenance.

Keep up running this living history and showing how it used to be done.
Having them locked up behind the velvet rope is so boring to me.
Mike