REAR HUB/FELT CAP INTERFERENCE
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Art Ebeling
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REAR HUB/FELT CAP INTERFERENCE
When I tighten the rear axle nut on my 14 the wheel locks up. I put some black paint on the axle seal cap and when I tighten the axle nut it shows the back of the hub is rubbing the axle cap. What is the problem and the fix here?
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RajoRacer
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Re: REAR HUB/FELT CAP INTERFERENCE
You don't have a felt under that modern seal cap, do you ? Not enough room if so.
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Original Smith
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Re: REAR HUB/FELT CAP INTERFERENCE
That photo doesn't show a real Ford part. Why not try doing it correctly?
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speedytinc
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Re: REAR HUB/FELT CAP INTERFERENCE
I dont use those thick cast aluminum caps. If you added a felt seal it wont fit either. If you want to use a modern lip seal, Bill Bolin makes them from spun steel. Available for early & late sized caps. Also the seal cap is supposed to be a hard press fit so it cant move/rotate.Original Smith wrote: ↑Sat Mar 21, 2026 12:24 pmThat photo doesn't show a real Ford part. Why not try doing it correctly?
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Mike Silbert
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Re: REAR HUB/FELT CAP INTERFERENCE
I have installed the new style seals and the old style seals and as long as everything is in the proper geometry then I have not had an issue.
When I see your picture several things come to mind.
I think the seal is installed all the way until it bottoms but I can not tell for sure.
What did the old seal look like? Was it worn heavily with the center of the cup rubbed out?
That axle surface is torn up really bad and what does the inside of the hub look like?
If the axle taper is worn and or the hub is worn it pushes the wheel further inboard towards the seal.
When (before) the wheel was removed was the brake drum outside the backing plate, lined up with it, or over the backing plate?
In other words where was the drum (and wheel) positioned before it came apart?
As the hub and axle wears the brake drum migrates inward essentially acting like a wear indicator.
Were the brake shoes touching the inside of the brake drum on the non lining faces? As it migrates inward it will start to drag the face on the drum.
Was any of the wheel and brake hardware touching anything inside the drum? I have seen plenty of worn springs and bolts from rubbing.
Do you have a set of Rocky Mountain Brake Drums on the back changing the geometry?
What is the condition of the rear axle bearings, sleeves, and thrust washers?
Were there any axle shims in there when you took it apart? A few thousandths on that long taper make a huge difference on the offset.
When these get worn all kinds of things start touching that should not be.
All of these questions are to point to the source and beginning of the problem.
So either the seal is not on far enough or the hub is on too far.
Maybe fit it up without a seal and key to see how it fits and where the drum lines up to the edges of the "backing plate" (axle flange)?
Maybe swap wheels from side to side to test?
I suspect bad axle taper and or bad hub taper is the issue but it remains to be proven.
Mike
When I see your picture several things come to mind.
I think the seal is installed all the way until it bottoms but I can not tell for sure.
What did the old seal look like? Was it worn heavily with the center of the cup rubbed out?
That axle surface is torn up really bad and what does the inside of the hub look like?
If the axle taper is worn and or the hub is worn it pushes the wheel further inboard towards the seal.
When (before) the wheel was removed was the brake drum outside the backing plate, lined up with it, or over the backing plate?
In other words where was the drum (and wheel) positioned before it came apart?
As the hub and axle wears the brake drum migrates inward essentially acting like a wear indicator.
Were the brake shoes touching the inside of the brake drum on the non lining faces? As it migrates inward it will start to drag the face on the drum.
Was any of the wheel and brake hardware touching anything inside the drum? I have seen plenty of worn springs and bolts from rubbing.
Do you have a set of Rocky Mountain Brake Drums on the back changing the geometry?
What is the condition of the rear axle bearings, sleeves, and thrust washers?
Were there any axle shims in there when you took it apart? A few thousandths on that long taper make a huge difference on the offset.
When these get worn all kinds of things start touching that should not be.
All of these questions are to point to the source and beginning of the problem.
So either the seal is not on far enough or the hub is on too far.
Maybe fit it up without a seal and key to see how it fits and where the drum lines up to the edges of the "backing plate" (axle flange)?
Maybe swap wheels from side to side to test?
I suspect bad axle taper and or bad hub taper is the issue but it remains to be proven.
Mike