How do you attach a Depot Hack Body to the frame ?

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Mart
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Last Name: Richardson
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How do you attach a Depot Hack Body to the frame ?

Post by Mart » Tue Oct 08, 2019 12:01 pm

Hi all, I am building a 1922 Depot Hack and I am ready to attach the Pleasantville Manufacturing Body to the frame. My question is how do I do that ? Do I need to add angle brackets to it or do you just drill through the cross members into the frame ? One problem with this car is that the rear frame (wishbone) extends beyond the wood gussets where I assumed you should be fastening to and the top of the wishbone extends above the floor.I believe the problem I have is that the body was probably built for a 1922 frame but my frame is a 1926 which on a 1926 frame the wishbone is longer and higher. I am not changing the body or frame so any suggestions ? I did think of cutting a hole in the floor to give it clearance and the rear seat would cover the hole up and making some wood blocks for the ends of the frame and attaching it to the underside of the body. just an idea.. Thank you for the help !!
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George Mills
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Re: How do you attach a Depot Hack Body to the frame ?

Post by George Mills » Tue Oct 08, 2019 12:26 pm

I can’t help with the how to attach to the frame as my Hack body is a modern Sieger. (The Sieger sits on flat side 2x4 oak sills then has body blocks that pick up existing frame holes)

Some do raise the body’s to clear the 26/27 hump issues. To me that makes the Hack top heavy in appearance and function...and then won’t fit in a standard garage door opening or enclosed trailer.

I took a flyer and tried something, the hole was cut to clear the frame hump...then I bought a Model A trunk patch panel from Howells (they actually had one on the shelf) . I never got around to painting it...maybe I’ll try yet this month?
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Dropacent
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Mounting brackets Depot Hack Body to the frame ?

Post by Dropacent » Tue Oct 08, 2019 1:07 pm

Martin, this is how it was originally done, using these mounting brackets. It required 6. If you need a picture of the actual mount, just ask. I think the suppliers offer them. I think I may have enough if you decide that route.
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Topic author
Mart
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu Oct 03, 2019 1:55 pm
First Name: Martin
Last Name: Richardson
Location: Gasport, New York
MTFCA Number: 30852

Re: How do you attach a Depot Hack Body to the frame ?

Post by Mart » Tue Oct 08, 2019 1:43 pm

Thanks George, I did think of raising the body but I agree I did not want to increase the height and have a large space above the splash aprons. I do like the cover that looks good and a good idea. As far as the frame extending out I suppose just making the block would have to do , I just wasn't sure how it would look..

Tim thank you and I would like to see a picture of clips installed if it is not to much trouble.


Dropacent
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Original type attachment Depot Hack Body to the frame ?

Post by Dropacent » Tue Oct 08, 2019 5:25 pm

Martin, using the correct brackets doesn’t raise the height at all, unless you add a rubber spacer of some type. What it does do Is spread the load out further side to side, which is good. I think it’s been determined aftermarket bodies used brackets with elongated slotted holes in the attachment point, to allow for a bit of a variance. If you are building it, it will work pretty well to use the standard body mount bracket that the suppliers sell, or used ones guys have available. Good luck, fun project! One of my pics show all three mounting brackets, attached to a frame rail and main body piece, which is hanging here.
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TonyB
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Re: How do you attach a Depot Hack Body to the frame ?

Post by TonyB » Tue Oct 08, 2019 11:33 pm

The regular Model T bodies are held by the brackets as mentioned above but on a custom body you have other options. Our speedster body is bolted directly to the chassis. I think we used the six brackets that are riveted to the chassis so it gives a slightly lower look. Of course several items are in the way, the one I remember best was the brake quadrant. For the simple speedster we simply cut a bigger hole to avoid any interference. It also has the repro Ricky Mtn Brake’s and that was another interference. For that we just cut away the underside of the floor to clear the cross shaft. One problem we had was the six bolts loosening, even though they had lock washers, due to the wood crumbling. We eventually solved the issue with large washers and double nuts.
Tony Bowker
Ramona, California
1909 Touring, 1914 Touring, 1915 Speedster, 1924 Coupe.

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