Clevis is not short enough versus too long?

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ivaldes1
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Clevis is not short enough versus too long?

Post by ivaldes1 » Tue Oct 15, 2019 10:19 pm

Hi,

I put a new Clevis in after changing the bands, pivots, supports, and slow speed notch on the transmission. I've read a few guides on how to adjust the Clevis which is '1/16th short or play'. Problem: my new Clevis which is the same dimension as the old one isn't short enough by just a little bit. Most comment that the Clevis isn't long enough. See picture of new Clevis in position. Practically no threads left on the nut to thread upward so I cannot achieve the '1/16th short or play' that's why I think I have to pull back the pedal with my foot to get high speed gear. Solutions?

-- IV
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Scott_Conger
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Re: Clevis is not short enough versus too long?

Post by Scott_Conger » Tue Oct 15, 2019 10:39 pm

I seem to recall you had trouble with getting the notch off of the pedal shaft and had to go to a machine shop?

If the notch rivet hole is not in the correct location rotationally, the pedal can be thrown forward too much already, while at rest and result in a too-short clevis? Something is definitely not right about either the clutch throw out arm angle or proximity of the pedal arm to the arm. I have never seen such a short clevis on a hog's head that was set up right.

Maybe put a brake support inside where a clutch support goes and is not meshing with the notch correctly?

Keep looking.
Scott Conger

Full Flow Float Valves - deliver fuel like Henry intended!

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ivaldes1
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Re: Clevis is not short enough versus too long?

Post by ivaldes1 » Tue Oct 15, 2019 10:53 pm

Confirm on machine shop. Sounds like the hogshead a gotta come off again. Sigh. I am going to get pretty good at taking hogsheads on and off. -- IV


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Re: Clevis is not short enough versus too long?

Post by Scott_Conger » Tue Oct 15, 2019 11:01 pm

Take a good picture of the driver's side with linkage hooked up and pedals "in position".
Take a good clear picture of the notch mating with the support, through the top door on the hog's head so as to get good confirmation from the peanut gallery as to where things went wrong.

don't yank that thing yet...document everything first and post to forum

I am beginning to feel your pain! You've earned some success at this point, haven't you?
Scott Conger

Full Flow Float Valves - deliver fuel like Henry intended!

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ivaldes1
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Re: Clevis is not short enough versus too long?

Post by ivaldes1 » Wed Oct 16, 2019 12:21 am

Can you tell from these photos?
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kmatt
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Re: Clevis is not short enough versus too long?

Post by kmatt » Wed Oct 16, 2019 2:46 am

Ignacio: Before you take things apart again try this, remove the thick lock nut that came with the new clevis and replace it with a thin jam nut, that should give you enough threads to be able to shorten the clevis to get the 1/16" free play. It might be just the angle of your picture but the new clevis sure looks close to the starter bendix cover can. Make sure that the clevis does not touch the bendix cover can through all low pedal motion. When the starter cars came out the low pedal at the clevis mount point got a new offset to clear the bendix cover can. If your car some how got a 1918 type low pedal you may need to do some adjusting to the pedal clevis mount point so the clevis clears the bendix cover can.


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Re: Clevis is not short enough versus too long?

Post by D Stroud » Wed Oct 16, 2019 3:34 am

What Kevin said, plus maybe cut off a bit of the threaded portion of the cleavis. Maybe not the correct way for a fix, but may just get you going. Just a thought. Dave
1925 mostly original coupe.


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Re: Clevis is not short enough versus too long?

Post by Kenny Edmondson » Wed Oct 16, 2019 6:54 am

I didn’t follow the original thread, so I’m not sure what all was done.
Just take the nut off to see how that works. Also I have to ask if the springs for the bands are the heavier springs for Kevlar bands? Those make a difference.

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Re: Clevis is not short enough versus too long?

Post by Charlie B in N.J. » Wed Oct 16, 2019 6:58 am

surprised it took this long to get to the shorter nut answer. was going to suggest it too but wasn't sure if it's a proper answer or not. i'd sure try it though if it was me.
Forget everything you thought you knew.


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Re: Clevis is not short enough versus too long?

Post by Scott_Conger » Wed Oct 16, 2019 10:20 am

In your last photo, where the clevis is not attached to the transmission arm, it looks like the arm is quite rotated, as though the throw-out is going very far forward (and the bolt/nut that contacts the parking brake arm is screwed all the way out?). I'm wondering if you have too few clutch disks installed? An aftermarket clutch that should have taken a few FORD disks? Or an early transmission (brake drum) that should have a spacer installed first before disks?

thick nut or not, it still doesn't look right
Scott Conger

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Re: Clevis is not short enough versus too long?

Post by Ruxstel24 » Wed Oct 16, 2019 11:04 am

I think your conclusion about the hole being drilled off is the answer Scott.
Ignacio says it all worked before the band/pedal repairs...
Dave


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Re: Clevis is not short enough versus too long?

Post by Norman Kling » Wed Oct 16, 2019 11:22 am

Your nut looks way too thick. Try it first without the nut and see if you can get the proper adjustment. Look at the old clevis. Does it have a nut and if so is it thinner? If so, you could try the thinner nut. If you cannot find a thinner nut, try grinding that one down. You could try putting that nut on a bolt and then clamping it in a vise and cutting it with a hacksaw or dremmel tool to about half the thickness. Put the uncut edge against the clevis.
Norm


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Re: Clevis is not short enough versus too long?

Post by Autie » Wed Oct 16, 2019 4:06 pm

"Your nut looks way too thick"....the inner child in me can't stop laughing.


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Re: Clevis is not short enough versus too long?

Post by Lutz T Guy » Wed Oct 16, 2019 4:44 pm

Clutch might be out of adjustment. Check the 3 fingers, they may be too loose.

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