Has anyone here on the forum using or considering us a 3D Printer to make patterns for casting parts.
Fitz
3D Printer
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Tbird
- Posts: 1317
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 6:51 pm
- First Name: Mike
- Last Name: Bird
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 Delivery Car
- Location: Goshen IN
Re: 3D Printer
When needed certain pieces for my Delivery Car, I acquired the original blueprints from The Henry Ford. I then drew them up in CAD and 3D printed them to be cast.
I made rear fender irons and rear door handle parts that allow the door to shut and lock. I also 3D printed 4 of the different braces/irons that hold the body together so I could get an idea of what they looked like and how they would function and then I had the braces/irons bent and made out of steel. All these pieces were unique only to the Delivery Car.
I made rear fender irons and rear door handle parts that allow the door to shut and lock. I also 3D printed 4 of the different braces/irons that hold the body together so I could get an idea of what they looked like and how they would function and then I had the braces/irons bent and made out of steel. All these pieces were unique only to the Delivery Car.
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Kevin Pharis
- Posts: 1633
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2019 3:54 pm
- First Name: Kevin
- Last Name: Pharis
- Location: Sacramento CA
- Contact:
Re: 3D Printer
3D printed patterns are fairly common practice these days. The hard part is still the hard part tho… shrinkage and gating. They will hold up to sand pounders if printed with adequate “fill”, also can be used for certain lost wax molds when using the right materials
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frontyboy
- Posts: 464
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2019 3:16 pm
- First Name: dick
- Last Name: dock
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: T sprint cars
- Location: locchoy wa
Re: 3D Printer
An Engineer (Brass car collector)friend is now working on his 1907 National 50 hp. He was missing all of the correct spark and throttle pieces including the quadrant with teeth on both sides. All he had was an old photocopy of the quadrant.
He worked with the photo to clean it up then used his 3d printed to make the quadrant, and the 2 levers. He then took the plastic parts to a foundry and had the pieces cast. He did add size to the parts for shrinkage. I will tell you the parts are just as if he ordered them from the factory
When you get back to Seattle I will take you to meet him and view his incredible early Ford collection and his very large early brass car collection.
just sayin'
frontyboy
He worked with the photo to clean it up then used his 3d printed to make the quadrant, and the 2 levers. He then took the plastic parts to a foundry and had the pieces cast. He did add size to the parts for shrinkage. I will tell you the parts are just as if he ordered them from the factory
When you get back to Seattle I will take you to meet him and view his incredible early Ford collection and his very large early brass car collection.
just sayin'
frontyboy
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Mike Silbert
- Posts: 124
- Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2020 11:30 pm
- First Name: Mike
- Last Name: Silbert
- Location: Sykesville Md
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
Re: 3D Printer
Yes, I 3D print my patterns when I need them cast.
Once it it in CAD you can print a full size sample to check fit and function if you want.
And they can easily be scaled to account for shrinkage.
If you want it smoother (quick printed) then add Bondo and sand to ridges.
It just has to stand up to medium compression when ramming the mold.
My father used pencil drawings (T square and triangle) then made wooden patterns, I use Cad and printed patterns.
It all does the same job just a different way to get there. Old school still works just like it always has.
I still use my T square and drawing kit when I need a quick sketch.
And ironically, tomorrow (12/8) I am going to the foundry to pick up parts and drop off the next batch of 3D printed patterns.
Check out makerspaces and libraries in your area, they may have CAD programs to use, CAD training, 3D printing, laser cutting, Laser 3D scanning and more for free or low cost in your area. It is amazing what is out there now if you just go looking.
Mike
Once it it in CAD you can print a full size sample to check fit and function if you want.
And they can easily be scaled to account for shrinkage.
If you want it smoother (quick printed) then add Bondo and sand to ridges.
It just has to stand up to medium compression when ramming the mold.
My father used pencil drawings (T square and triangle) then made wooden patterns, I use Cad and printed patterns.
It all does the same job just a different way to get there. Old school still works just like it always has.
I still use my T square and drawing kit when I need a quick sketch.
And ironically, tomorrow (12/8) I am going to the foundry to pick up parts and drop off the next batch of 3D printed patterns.
Check out makerspaces and libraries in your area, they may have CAD programs to use, CAD training, 3D printing, laser cutting, Laser 3D scanning and more for free or low cost in your area. It is amazing what is out there now if you just go looking.
Mike
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A Whiteman
- Posts: 1189
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 3:36 pm
- First Name: Adrian
- Last Name: Whiteman
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 TT, 1923 Colonial Roadster, 1924 'Bullnose' Morris, 1925 'Bullnose' Morris, 1936 JD AR
- Location: South Island, New Zealand
Re: 3D Printer
We are planning getting body bracket parts cast at the moment (for a Colonial bodied T - so not 'standard' T bits).
Originals have been 3d scanned and put into CAD.
They will be printed in PPA (at least I think that is it) and the cores will be used in investment casts.
The cast is heated sufficiently to melt out the core before the metal is poured in.
For silicon bronze we allow about 3% shrinkage and are prepared to have more than one attempt.
Once we get going on the project I will keep you updated on how we fare,
Originals have been 3d scanned and put into CAD.
They will be printed in PPA (at least I think that is it) and the cores will be used in investment casts.
The cast is heated sufficiently to melt out the core before the metal is poured in.
For silicon bronze we allow about 3% shrinkage and are prepared to have more than one attempt.
Once we get going on the project I will keep you updated on how we fare,