POR Fuel Tank Kit

[Hudson29]

When I bought my '14 project the tank had been drained and the car stored for some time. I looked in the tank and it looked pretty good. After getting it running & driving, the NH started minor flooding. I could smell raw gas while driving and the motor felt like it was "fluffing" at low speeds. A newly rebuilt NH was installed and it did the same thing. A look inside the fuel tank showed that the situation had changed:

Now the tank I thought was clean had all sorts of rust bits inside. Something had to be done so I advertised for a new tank in the PARTS section of this list. I wanted a new tank so that I could install it in the car and have a minimum of down time. A fellow had a new tank setting on the shelf and we struck a deal to have it shipped to me.

Paul

[speedytinc]

Is that fine rust getting past your sediment bowl screen?

[Hudson29]

The tank was indeed new but had been sitting for some time sealed with blue masking tape. The neck threads were rusty and the baffle showed rusty spots where it had been welded. Only a small portion of the inside can be seen and it seemed likely there was more rusty spots that were not visible.

The ever helpful Scott Conger suggested the POR Fuel Tank Kit. He also provided some tips that helped fil in areas where the kit instructions were somewhat breezy. I ordered the kit and following Scott's advice bought a 2" test plug to seal the fuel tank filler hole and a 1/@ plastic pipe plug to seal the area where the fuel bulb screws in.

The rusty threads in the neck were cleaned with a wire wheel mounted in a Dremel.

After installing these plugs the cleaning solution was poured in and diluted with water per instructions. This was followed by lots of rolling & agitation including swapping end for end. The cleaning solution was left in 24 hours then drained. I have saved it to see if it will clean rusty tools. A lot of time was spent rinsing the tank to make sure it was all out.

Next the etch was poured in and rolled around & agitated the same as the cleaner was. The leakage was powerful enough to mark the outside of the tank in just the few minutes in took me to clean it up so I judged it would need less time than the cleaning step had. I left it in for the afternoon then drained & rinsed it out three times to make sure it was all gone. The tank was sitting out in the sun on sawhorses and a hot air gun set to low blower was inserted into the filler neck. This was left in for 2 hours. The tank became too hot to touch & a rag was used to protect the sawhorse.

[Hudson29]

Is that fine rust getting past your sediment bowl screen?

The tank & bulb are still in the car and I have not seen the screen. I'll look that over when the tank is out of the car.

Paul

[Hudson29]

The cleaned and etched tank was good & dry thanks to the heat gun but was left for a week in the garage just to make sure.

A hygrometer was used to check that it was indeed dry and then the drain plug was reinstalled. The sealer was poured in with the help of a plastic funnel. The gas filler hole was filled with the test plug. Both plugs were made good & tight. I spent a half an hour rolling the tank slowly & tipping it end for end, pausing & holding it in every position possible to give the coating a chance to cover every surface.

The big filler plug was left in and the bottom plug was removed to allow the sealer to drain off the excess. This took quite a long time tipping the tank this way & that to make sure all the excess was given time to drain. This took about 20 minutes. The drain threads were wiped with a cloth to get the coating out of them. The tank was set aside to dry sitting on its side so the excess sealer that didn't drain would not pool in the drain or filler areas.

Two days later I went to remove the filler plug & found it stuck fast. A 2' pry bar was used and it did come out, still a bit tacky. Next time I'll remove this sooner.

Now the tank is done but for the cure. It will seat a week or two before it goes in the car.

I'm not 100% happy with the rusty spots still visible on the baffle. I do hope that they were rendered inert, are well sealed and will give no further trouble.

Paul

[Hudson29]

As an addendum, the new tank will be fitted with a new fuel bulb & fuel line. I did this with the '23 fifteen years ago when it was having trouble and that solved the issues ever since.

[Oldav8tor]

I used the POR Kit on my '17 - the tank had more rust and gunk than yours. Cleaned up nicely and the liner took care of the rest. No issues in 4000 + miles.

[Hudson29]

Thanks Tim, that's encouraging to hear. It may be some time before I can get the tank installed & the car back on the road. I have a foot injury that the Doc feels needs a special shoe to aid healing that has me hobbling around with no driving. Model T work is limited to topside work for a bit. Fall is here now & its perfect touring weather if I could get the cars out. Winter is right around the corner.

Paul