spindle arm bushing
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andy2794
Topic author - Posts: 68
- Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2021 5:47 pm
- First Name: Andy
- Last Name: Apjok
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1916 Touring
- Location: Indiana, PA
spindle arm bushing
I recently purchased a 1916 Model T Touring, I can feel some play in the front when driving. The hole appears to be a little oblong, I think it is called the spindle arm bolt hole. I have attached a picture, any advise would be appreciated.
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RajoRacer
- Posts: 5172
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:18 pm
- First Name: Steve
- Last Name: Tomaso
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 Touring, 1919 Centerdoor, 1924 TT C-Cab Express, 1925 Racer
- Location: Longbranch, WA
- Board Member Since: 2001
Re: spindle arm bushing
Not wanting to be a "Betty Bummer" but there is very little in that front end photo that resemble 1916 ! All later as in 1920's era parts. Most all major front axle components are available new and other parts are also available.
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andy2794
Topic author - Posts: 68
- Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2021 5:47 pm
- First Name: Andy
- Last Name: Apjok
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1916 Touring
- Location: Indiana, PA
Re: spindle arm bushing
I think I called it by the wrong name, I think the bolt in the picture that is in the hole is the Tie rod bolt, this is the hole that is oblong, does this make any sense? How do I fix this?
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TRDxB2
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- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedsters (1919 w 1926 upgrades), 1926 (Ricardo Head)
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Re: spindle arm bushing
The "bolt" in your picture is a tie rod bolt 2718SB. It threaded trough the tie rod yoke and the spindle arm. The bushing can be replaced but need to see why it got that way.
If the "spindle arm" hole is elongated there is a good chance that the un-threaded hole in the yoke is also damaged. The bolt should fit tight through that hole as well. If that yoke hole is damaged then you'll need a tie rod yoke as well.
The spindle arm should fit into the jaws of the yoke (not to loose. The top and bottom of the spindle arm should be flat & even not tapered looking. The tie rod bolt should be snug into the threaded hole when screwed all the way down.
A close up the spindle arm bushing hole is needed. Also take a picture of the other end of the tie rod that has the same style bolt - need to see if its worn as well,.
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
Mick Jagger
Mick Jagger
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Steve Jelf
- Posts: 7237
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- Last Name: Jelf
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
- Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
- Board Member Since: 2007
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Re: spindle arm bushing
It costs more to replace shackles and bolts than bushings, so I skip the stock steel bushings and buy bronze ones from the internet.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=27865
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=27865
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
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Allan
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- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
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Re: spindle arm bushing
I make replacement bushes using old king pin bushes. They are the correct OD, and the worn ID can be bored to suit the new tie rod end bolt. You can even leave some of the kingpin Bush head to act as a thrust to take the weight of the tie rod.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.