Oil Slinger Build

[Bryant]

Tried my hand at building Oil slingers

Started by cutting some equal length 3/4 blocks

Next milled off the edges. one side for the triple gear pin ring. the other for the mounting tab on the ring gear side.

Test fit on the mounting tab. Used original spools and a new set of original brass screws

Next Welded it

Then I gave it a smooth finish

[Bryant]

Then I assembled it all. I wanted to retain some of the flywheel mass so i used this method. it's about half the weight of the original magnets and the height is the same as the magnet to throw the oil in the same place as originally intended. hope you enjoyed!
Bryant

[DanTreace]

Very nice, good idea to keep some flywheel weight for low end acceleration.

Only my 2 cents.. old brass screws may be weak point, they do snap off heads. Tap the ring gear and use steel machine screws and LocTite.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Only my 2 cents.. old brass screws may be weak point, they do snap off heads. Tap the ring gear and use steel machine screws and LocTite.

Make that 4 cents now. Even new brass screws, in that application, give me pause. Might also peen the ends to lock them in.

[Bryant]

This is why I posted the build! Some good advice. I might ditch the brass. I did use lock tight and peened them. I forgot to mention. Thanks fellas
Bryant

[speedytinc]

There is a metric screw size that works quite well in this application. The threads self lock.

[Bryant]

There is a metric screw size that works quite well in this application. The threads self lock.

I think I read that in another thread. I will have to back track thru the forum to find it unless someone knows. Or what size to re tap to for the SAE size.
Bryant

[Scott_Conger]

Bryant

actually, there is no SAE size for the screw

it's either original 14-24 ASME Standard or British Standard Cycle thread (.242 diameter nominal), or the incorrect repro thread 1/4-24 ADMF Admiralty thread (.250 diameter nominal) and I'll bet you're thinking of one or the other. ASME Standard is a Whitworth form so not likely the source for the original call out, but the British Standard Cycle thread is a 60 degree thread form and the most likely genesis for the spec for the original thread.

In any event, none are SAE

more info than anyone in their right mind wanted to know

[Bryant]

Yeah it took me a few brain cells and some research to figure out the 14-24 thread
What I meant was, what size has the re-tap been that Dan had mentioned?
Bryant

[Bryant]

I forgot the drill the hole step i used the original magnet bolts to secure them on the inside.
Bryant

[Scott_Conger]

Honestly Bryant, you'll have to tell US what the thread is in your ring gear...

it's either 14-24 (.242) or 1/4-24 (.250) depending on if it is an original ring gear or an incorrect repro

since you can't tap it smaller, I'd think Dan means 1/4-24, but Dan is the one to clarify that

I didn't think a 1/4-24 quality screw existed (junk, yes) but perhaps these guys have something worthy of taking the stress you're going to put into them: https://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/collecti ... ize_1-4-24

[Bryant]

I have the 14-24 .242 thread
Bryant

[J1MGOLDEN]

You can ditch all that extra weight with the external oil pick up attached on the transmission cover and go with a lighter flywheel, as the starter ring gear throws enough oil anyway.

Hot rodders always go for the lighter flywheels.

One of our club members has had one installed for 30 years and his T still does 50 MPH with no problems.

[DanTreace]

Hot rodders always go for the lighter flywheels.

One of our club members has had one installed for 30 years and his T still does 50 MPH with no problems.

Did this '15 speedster way back when the my gals were tiny! Removed the magnets and added slingers, ran 12v DC to the vibrator coils. Std. axle ratio. Hand-cranked.

While this little thing was very lightweight, getting underway in low gear took a bit longer. Once going into high, sure it felt nice and fast. But believed then, and still do, the T needs that flywheel/magneto mass to have good low end grunt to launch.

[Scott_Conger]

more rev's, more throttle, more pedal, more slipping, more heat to get going

I've never thought that was a good idea for a car that was anything but a hill-climber that was going to be driven hard and repaired often by a guy with plenty of spare low-drums on hand.

Dan, I agree that for pure ease, it is far more pleasant to drive a T that has its original-weight flywheel

[Bryant]

I read a good deal about the flywheel mass subject. With consideration to the car being the heavier Tudor I went for the middle weight as I would like the lower end grunt vs higher speeds. I’ve also read that distributors like the lighter flywheel but have seen distributors on cars with magnets that run good to. I plan on the outside hogshead oil line in the near future. In the end this is an experiment. I guess time will tell
Bryant

[TXGOAT2]

Four cylinder engines need substantial flywheel mass to develop torque. A Model T with a stock, lightweight crankshaft definitely needs substantial flywheel mass, and the balance of it needs to be out toward the rim. Mass near the center of rotation is not as effective at collecting torque and regulating power impulses. Engines with more cylinders and higher operating speeds require less mass in the flywheel, and a counterbalanced T crankshaft can offset lack of mass in the flywheel. A stock or near-stock T engine develops its maximum torque at rather low engine speeds, which calls for a substantial flywheel.

[JohnH]

There is a metric screw size that works quite well in this application. The threads self lock.

The ones to use are 6mm x 1mm high tensile screws. They must be high tensile or the threads just strip and won't lock, as I discovered. Mine have been in operation since early 2011 without any problem.

[Bryant]

Thank you John I purchased 6mmx1mmx50mm high tensile bolts from our supplier on the farm. Threaded in perfectly with enough sticking out to peen over.

because I can’t leave well enough alone I decided to indicate the slingers like one would do when setting magnets I started with a level slinger

next worked my way around on the turn table on the Bridgeport adjusting to .zero with this little carriage bolt and nut

a lot like adjusting valve tappets it brought everything to zero.

then I spun it on the tire balancer because it was to big for the lathe and it appeared to turn wobble free

next will be balancing the whole assembly when I finish building the mandrels. Thanks for watching.
Bryant