Some speedster advice, thoughts

[skyhunter]

I deleted the original stuff since you have solved that part of my puzzle.

As an update:

Having the Z bracket redesigned by a friend and going to use the earlier OEM style that uses the two U-bolts with the front motor mount rather than that sketchy single point that was on it.

At the other end it will use a trimmed section of a front crossmember to hold the spring and two U-bolts attached to the bracket in a manner similar to the type in the secrets of speed and made at one time by Mr. Lee.

[skyhunter]

Also want to know what these 2 rods with springs on one end are called and are there replacements available.

Rods.jpg (56.71 KiB) Viewed 1898 times

Additionally, what this round thing is as it was attached to nothing. Thanks

[Wayne Sheldon]

Your last photo, the empty hole was supposed to have the steering column shaft run through it, and placed above where the throttle arm should be (except that some speedsters do not use the original type throttle linkage). The purpose of that piece is to steady the throttle linkage and rod to prevent flexing of the throttle rod from causing changes in throttle amount.

The rear lowering brackets are a common style for speedsters and racing car model Ts. As long as they are well done and strong enough, they work fine.

Photos of the front brackets?

[Wayne Sheldon]

By the way, that "empty hole" bracket? It is an earlier style used in the 1910s. While not terribly valuable, they are somewhat desirable for those that want the correct piece on their 1910s car. About 1920, Ford switched to the much more common later stamped three hole version rather than the cast two hole ones.

[Wayne Sheldon]

By the way, that "empty hole" bracket? It is an---------
Stupid computers! I did not tell it to post twice!

[skyhunter]

Your last photo, the empty hole was supposed to have the steering column shaft run through it, and placed above where the throttle arm should be (except that some speedsters do not use the original type throttle linkage). The purpose of that piece is to steady the throttle linkage and rod to prevent flexing of the throttle rod from causing changes in throttle amount.

The rear lowering brackets are a common style for speedsters and racing car model Ts. As long as they are well done and strong enough, they work fine.

Photos of the front brackets?

Thanks. The link to the throttle is above it. It connects to a rod that goes between the engine. Guess when I get it back together, I will put it on.

The front has the spring mount reversed I believe, but I may also try a dropped axle. Hoping with that and the brackets with a 2" drop crossmember on the back it will get what I want. But I need to know what the "too close" distance is for the oil plug to ground height.

[skyhunter]

By the way, that "empty hole" bracket? It is an earlier style used in the 1910s. While not terribly valuable, they are somewhat desirable for those that want the correct piece on their 1910s car. About 1920, Ford switched to the much more common later stamped three hole version rather than the cast two hole ones.

Sorry about the ham-fisted drawings. Are you talking about the 2 holes I pointed out here? (that is supposed to be an arrow)

The 2 rods I circled are a bit worn from past rust pitting and you can see it on the bottom one's edge. I was not sure if they need to be replaced. My car is a "mostly" 1916.

[TRDxB2]

Need a close up of he front bracket and the ends of the tie rod. The ends don't look they are using T parts.
Clearance is also dependent upon where your going to drive & what you may have to drive over - curb, lip of a trailer ramp. Usual drop is between 4-5 inches but haven't found what that results in for oil plug clearance

[Wayne Sheldon]

Sorry about the ham-fisted drawings. Are you talking about the 2 holes I pointed out here? (that is supposed to be an arrow)

The 2 rods I circled are a bit worn from past rust pitting and you can see it on the bottom one's edge. I was not sure if they need to be replaced. My car is a "mostly" 1916.
[/quote]


If you can draw circles and arrows, even badly, then you are doing better with computers than I am!

Your spark and throttle lever shafts are not looking too bad. I have seen, and personally run worse. Two small holes for the throttle rod arm also indicates a 1910s era steering column. Ford went to a single small hole in the throttle arm about the same time they switched that "anti-wiggle" piece from two holes to three holes.

I and I am sure others would love to see more photos of your car! Is it a brass radiator 1916, or a later black era 1916? Generally, model year 1916 were only brass radiator cars with the black shell radiator cars being considered 1917 model year cars. However, with speedsters and racing cars that doesn't always follow the factory rules.

That front lowering bracket looks nice. But how was it made? Bent steel? Reinforced? Welded? Where and how?
One of my speedsters, the only true racing car of the five speedsters I had restored and driven, had a similar front end drop. It was bent half inch steel plate and very strong. The front end was very stable and handled great!

[babychadwick]

"Max" lowering is such that your pan is above your wheel rim. Lower than this you risk tearing apart your motor if you get a flat tire. Your front spring is not inverted, inverting gives you about 3/4 inch. You have later spindles (about an inch), switching to Chevy gives you about another inch. It looks like you may have a later Front spring as well resulting in another inch. Front cross member removal gives you a few but requires engine setback/suicide front end. I'm estimating the drop currently on the car is about 5 looking at front and rear. Alternating removal of some rear springs gives you another inch but can change ride based on body. There is also a reverse eye rear available or bent spring.

[skyhunter]

Anyone with a fender less style speedster have some pictures, advice and guidance for assembly options that would look more, correct? As well as best practices for joinery. My skill level is ok with basic or mitered butt, and dowel joints.

Brass screws or t-nuts and bolts for things like removable panels. Carriage Bolts to attach body to frame. Epoxies and corner braces to reenforce butt joined boards.

I have a set of generic plans using pine and plywood but planning using oak or maple boards.

[skyhunter]

Anyone with a fender less style speedster have some pictures, advice and guidance for assembly options that would look more, correct? As well as best practices for joinery. My skill level is ok with basic or mitered butt, and dowel joints.

Brass screws or t-nuts and bolts for things like removable panels. Carriage Bolts to attach body to frame. Epoxies and corner braces to reenforce butt joined boards.

I have a set of generic plans using pine and plywood but planning using oak or maple boards.

Got the chassis parts all blasted and in rattle can primer so I could assemble it to begin making the body. Have 2 panels of hardboard to use for mock-up and then templates before moving on to cutting up the pricy stuff. Hence the reason for the prior post.