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Topic author
modernbeat
- Posts: 126
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:09 pm
- First Name: Jason
- Last Name: McDaniel
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1913 Roadster / 1926 Pickup / 1926 Express-Camper
- Location: Dallas, TX
- Board Member Since: 2018
Post
by modernbeat » Tue May 28, 2019 2:16 pm
Going through my 1926-27 motor parts in anticipation of building a motor and found that the only 4-dip pan I have has an opening where the sleeve goes.
Not being familiar with these, I don't know if it's supposed to be split, or if that is wrong for these. I've seen the two earlier styles, which are not split. But I can't find a good photo of a late pan that shows this area.

Jason McDaniel
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Bill Crosby
- Posts: 184
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 5:33 pm
- First Name: Bill
- Last Name: Crosby
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1916 Touring, 1920 Coupe, 1926 RPU, 1927 RPU, 25 speedster project
- Location: Webster, NY
- Board Member Since: 2016
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by Bill Crosby » Tue May 28, 2019 2:33 pm
Jason, this Is not correct or safe.
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Bill Crosby
- Posts: 184
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 5:33 pm
- First Name: Bill
- Last Name: Crosby
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1916 Touring, 1920 Coupe, 1926 RPU, 1927 RPU, 25 speedster project
- Location: Webster, NY
- Board Member Since: 2016
Post
by Bill Crosby » Tue May 28, 2019 2:39 pm
Jason, This Is what they should look like.
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Topic author
modernbeat
- Posts: 126
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:09 pm
- First Name: Jason
- Last Name: McDaniel
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1913 Roadster / 1926 Pickup / 1926 Express-Camper
- Location: Dallas, TX
- Board Member Since: 2018
Post
by modernbeat » Tue May 28, 2019 3:40 pm
I'd guess a WTB is next on my list.
Thanks guys, I couldn't find a good reference photo of a 26-27 that showed the front casting.
Jason McDaniel
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Wayne Sheldon
- Posts: 4249
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 3:13 pm
- First Name: Wayne
- Last Name: Sheldon
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 Runabout 1913 Speedster
- Location: Grass Valley California, USA
- Board Member Since: 2005
Post
by Wayne Sheldon » Tue May 28, 2019 4:30 pm
If the rest of the pan is in reasonably good condition? That could be repaired. It MAY have been cut to remove a hand crank bushing. Some pans had bushings, some did not. I can't tell from the photo if this one had a bushing or not. If someone were to repair it, that would need to be checked for fit and repaired to match.
Properly welded, or even brazed, that could be made nearly as good as new. I have repaired much worse.
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John kuehn
- Posts: 4433
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:00 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Kuehn
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 19 Roadster, 21 Touring, 24 Coupe
- Location: Texas
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by John kuehn » Tue May 28, 2019 7:32 pm
Hmmm. That cut in your pan nose sure looks factory though it’s not. Looks to be cut to good. It’s got that good cut in it in anticipation of being repaired. They probably found another pan to use and got rid of this one. It can be repaired so don’t throw it away.
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Topic author
modernbeat
- Posts: 126
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:09 pm
- First Name: Jason
- Last Name: McDaniel
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1913 Roadster / 1926 Pickup / 1926 Express-Camper
- Location: Dallas, TX
- Board Member Since: 2018
Post
by modernbeat » Thu May 30, 2019 1:09 am
Along those lines, if this one is reparable, I'll likely go that way.
I've had a few people tell me it could be pressed together and welded. But really, I think cutting the rivets off and replacing it while on a jig is the right way to go.
I've had a hard time finding a 26-27 cast support piece. Is the '25 piece the same, except for the two extra rivets?
And yeah, that cut looked factory. That's why I was confused about the cut. I had never seen one with a cut, but it looked so right.
Jason McDaniel
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D Stroud
- Posts: 1015
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:45 am
- First Name: David
- Last Name: Stroud
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 Coupe
- Location: Mound City, MO 64470
- Board Member Since: 2011
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by D Stroud » Thu May 30, 2019 1:15 am
That is a very easy weld repair job, MUCH easier than searching for and replacing the pan nose. Look around for a local welder, he should be able to fix you right up. Don't just press it together and weld it until you determine that the hole is the correct size. Don't forget that welding it will shrink the ID a bit too. Dave
1925 mostly original coupe.