Could use your help - '27 coupe w/ Holley NH

[Mike S]

The choke/mixture rod evidently was replaced with one that really does not fit this car as it is too long and sticks out of the dash about 4 inches.

I had the carburetor (bayonet type not t-top) rebuilt but I am having trouble with the choke/mixture operate the carburetor to operate properly. The location of the small holes where the choke rod attaches is on top of the input manifold, which makes it extremely hard to adjust the mixture. Also it does not have enough play to properly choke the carburetor.

I am thinking about extending the rod from the choke to a location that makes it easier to operate both functions. Would anyone have a photo of similar that operates properly? I would really appreciate it as I just have a wire between the choke on the carb to the proper location on the rod?

I've tried to find a shorter choke/mixture rod maybe more for this actual car but have not been successful.

Thanks,

Mike

[Mike S]

PS - I'm trying to add a collar to put it above the intake but at that location it tends to hit the firewall not letting the rod pull enough distance to engage the choke properly.

[Humblej]

Here is how it is done for the NH according to the Ford Service Manual.

[Mike S]

Thanks! I am not an experienced auto mechanic but I am trying to learn. My wife bought this car for me and I am doing my best to get it up to snuff. I appreciate all your help.

[varmint]

Mike, I just had to deal with all this on our Coupe. I believe the two bolts mounting the carburetor to the intake manifold are 3/8". You may need to loosen them, rotate the carb. so that the screw closest to the engine goes up, and that the screw closest to you goes down. While holding the carb with some channel locks wrapped in a shop towel, hold it in this rotated position. Then with another hand use a 9/16" open wrench to hold the screw and with another hand/9/16" open wrench, tighten the nut. A little bit of rotation is magnified by the tall mixture adjustment needle.

I had gouges in the hot air collection pipe it was so close. I also, with a high speed mini grinder, removed 1/16" material from the hot air pipe where it contacts the exhaust manifold.

I also relocated the slider higher up on the choke rod by drilling holes to a new location.

The rod itself is sold longer than you need. The installer is supposed to cut it down to size. That is why it sticks out the dash. Ours no longer does stick out.

[RajoRacer]

If the combination mixture/choke rod was replaced, most likely with a repro, one drives out the tension pin holding the adjustment knob, shorten the rod as needed, reattach the knob, redrill the hole & reinsert the tension pin.

Ford supplied a "special" hot air pipe with indentation for the swivel top carburetors so as to not have that interference issue.

[Original Smith]

Check the parts book. There are seven different lengths of adjusting rods used. I went through that with my late 25, and had an interesting time trying to locate the correct length. Keep on trying.

[DanTreace]

For the repro needle valve, that replacement has longer arms or fingers than the originals (provides the tension on the round barrel to keep the needle valve in correct spot) can interfere with the hex portion and prevent full seating of the needle.

My fix is to cutaway a portion of those arms (neat job no, but results are right )...... just another thing with repro parts. Cut back the arms improves function, be sure to crimp the arms just a bit to get the proper tension to prevent drift.

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