Engine knock
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Topic author - Posts: 16
- Joined: Sat Mar 30, 2019 1:03 pm
- First Name: Phil
- Last Name: Terry
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 tudor
- Location: Reno
Engine knock
Replaced pistons/rings. Now have engine knock when advancing engine timing. Quiet at idle, noise increases when advancing Distributor with advance lever and increasing rpms.
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- Posts: 165
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:46 pm
- First Name: Tim
- Last Name: Williams
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 Model T Speedster, 1922 Model t Speedster project
- Location: Hillsboro, OR
Re: Engine knock
did you check the cylinder taper with a gauge?
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Topic author - Posts: 16
- Joined: Sat Mar 30, 2019 1:03 pm
- First Name: Phil
- Last Name: Terry
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 tudor
- Location: Reno
Re: Engine knock
no I didn't....Thank you for advice.
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- First Name: Susanne
- Last Name: Rohner
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Re: Engine knock
It could be knocking from having overadvanced timing,,, kind of a low distinctively hollow thumpy sound. Especially noticable when running off a battery / distributor system. Some dizzys can way overadvance your motor - we had a delco in the '15 roadster that was miserable for this - and it was a short distance from retarded for starting to overadvanced.
Also... When you crank start your car (with the spark lever fully up) does your car have a tendency to want to "jerk" back in your hand? that's a sign your spark lever adjustment (or rod length) may be incorrect for your distributor, and you never come off BTDC.
Also... When you crank start your car (with the spark lever fully up) does your car have a tendency to want to "jerk" back in your hand? that's a sign your spark lever adjustment (or rod length) may be incorrect for your distributor, and you never come off BTDC.
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- Posts: 85
- Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2019 4:57 pm
- First Name: Preston
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- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Runabout, 1926 TT Truck
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Re: Engine knock
When you tighten the cylinder up with a piston/ring replacement you will increase compression, (providing the cylinder is round) and put more strain on the lower end (rod journals). If the the rod or main bearings are marginal the increased compression will cause any bottom end wear to be amplified and you may notice a thump that wasnt there before. And advancing timing will effect this even more as ignition occures further BTDC. I will also add that valve seal will play a part in this also. Might get some plastiguage and check crank bearing clearance.
Saying this based on no mention of the crank/bearings condition in the original post.
Saying this based on no mention of the crank/bearings condition in the original post.
70shovelhead
"There is more to life than what we see"
1923 T Roadster
1926 TT Truck
1948 Willys Pickup
1937 Harley WL45
1919 IHC Titan 10-20
"There is more to life than what we see"
1923 T Roadster
1926 TT Truck
1948 Willys Pickup
1937 Harley WL45
1919 IHC Titan 10-20