MTFCA Forum

Thanks for the input. Yep - Working on another carb I found in the pile, although not that much better, it has decent threads. I'll give it a go if I can just get the darned float seat out... Really appreciate the forum. Is the advice for this to heat the body to red, then allow to cool before tryi...

Hap,

I believe the the Rome radiator you show is the style with a removable shell. Meaning, what appeasrs to be the upper tank is really just the shell, with the tank beneath. One of the spare parts donated by to the EFR by Oswald, was such a shell.

What carburetor, (make, model...)?

... threads on the carb ...

Which threads?

...it would not get tight

What would not get tight?

Post pictures, please.

Is the terminal bolt maybe a bit too long? Protruding from the thumb nut more than necessary?

Just search this forum. There has been tons of great ND Timer information shared in the past.

Let us know what repair method you choose. I still like Terry Woods' suggestion.

My Ford historian friend, Mike, suggested that the EFR folks might enjoy this letter. Most likely, some or most, of this is already known, but nonetheless, still interesting. Of course, it rotates when you click on it. Sorry.

Should the bushing go that deep into the bracket? If so, you may get a better fit on non worn section of the shaft closer to the pitman arm by fitting the bush flush with the end of the bracket. Either that or using a longer bush. Allan from down under. I'm thinking no. Shouldn't be that deep. The ...

Here's what the answer to your question usually boils down to...

If the car runs better with it, it's necessary. If it doesn't run better, or runs worse, it's not necessary. Try it and see what happens.

Very cool! I've seen a slogan of theirs as , "Burns Hotter Than the Sun".

Ideally, you should not have to remove the entire top to replace the straps. Just pull back the top material in the areas where the straps are attached. Then remove the staples, (I hate staples), and sneak in the new straps, pull them taut, then tack them to the bows, (or use staples if you want to)...

love2T's wrote: ↑
Tue Feb 17, 2026 9:13 am

Rich P. Bingham wrote: ↑
Mon Feb 16, 2026 10:40 am
No one commented whether the manifold is possibly also warped - that adds another layer of difficulty for putting it back in service.
And you KNOW it is warped!!

Not sure you/we KNOW it's warped, or why you think it's funny.

Why can''t you check it at BDC?

Commutators? Commutator Timers? Commutator Brushes? Ask this guy for a better photo of the logo... https://www.ebay.com/itm/354545850748?_skw=schug+%28spark%2Cignition%2Ccoil%29&itmmeta=01KHKQ7ND8H0M1K7JP78E35F5E&hash=item528c94597c:g:5rUAAOSwq1lj1A4g&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA4GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xCyLVS...

Not a bad idea. Let's be very careful, however, to only mention those who have actually scammed, or tried to scam, us. We've seen many occasions where someone was tagged a "scammer" due to oddly phrased listings or other unusual behavior. Definitely, those are things to be wary of, but it does not a...

As has been stated, extreme heat may, or does, things to cast iron manifolds that heat may not do to iron cylinder heads, but I would recommend contacting Midwest Cylinder Head Repair in Nevada, Iowa. They are experts in cast iron cylinder head repair and have been in business since 1947 (one year ...

What a great story! Thanks for sharing!

Dan Hatch wrote: ↑
Thu Feb 12, 2026 2:18 pm
Just hit it with a little MBRT, like the old timers did back in the day.

Most likely, the break occurred because the bow socket is rusted out from the inside. Maybe you can do the braze repair you suggest, but you're just as likely to find that there's not much left of the rest of the socket either. Hope not. Maybe the pictures will tell more.

What is the diameter of cam bearing holes in the block? In other words, what would the diameter of the reamer bar have to be?

Never mind...

ironhorse wrote: ↑
Wed Feb 11, 2026 7:00 am
[*]Yes but; the writing on the back says "No operator serviceable parts inside screw removal by qualified persons only" I think I can replace a fuse or battery

Anyone who isn't able to replace the battery or the fuse probably would also not be able to remove the screws. Problem solved

Anti-Seize and grease are not the same thing. Depending on the grade, Anti-Seize can have flaked mica, copper powder, or other other additives. Grease would simply be squeezed out of the taper joint, but Anti-Seize would leave behind its additives to impede the metal-to-metal contact that the taper ...

Honest Bills shows No. 2. What could that have been advertising. No telling. Telling... "Honest Bill's Shows" refers to a traveling circus and carnival operation that was active, particularly in the 1920s. Context: It was a large, touring show known for utilizing a specialized train of high-powered...

Should theoretically be possible, as long as there's enough "meat" in the pulley to fit a clamp bolt, such as the adjustable ones have.

speedytinc wrote: ↑
Tue Feb 10, 2026 11:08 am
I like it, Mike.
If you spread a little Valvoline on top of the terminal clamps they will not corrode & will be maintenance free.

Or even Vaseline maybe

I loaned out a rim spreader about 5 years ago. I'll never see that again. Given who it was, I should have known better. There are some people I would loan anything to, and others... not.

skyhunter wrote: ↑
Sat Feb 07, 2026 7:37 pm
On the right side of the car of the rear end, is there supposed to be a drain plug on the far end of the axle housing on the underside just before where the brake housing is riveted to the housing?

No.

Do you mean the roll-up back panel?

ironhorse wrote: ↑
Sat Feb 07, 2026 7:17 am
sbowl.jpg

I prefer a Superb Owl Party!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0iYiJL-GFIE

My '26 speedster came with a low head. I have a high head in my stash. It looks like the high head has larger water jackets (better cooling?). What would your suggestions be on which would be best and why? Thanks! To answer your question, it kind of depends on what radiator you're using. The low he...

Ruxstel24 wrote: ↑
Fri Feb 06, 2026 9:31 am

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑
Fri Feb 06, 2026 9:05 am
If you cleaned them up, so folks could see the condition of the gear teeth, you might be able to sell these.
I agree but my wire wheel is outside in the cold.
Supposed to be in the 40s next week and I will.
Thanks

I can certainly sympathize with that.

If you cleaned them up, so folks could see the condition of the gear teeth, you might be able to sell these.

You can buy a bushing with a larger outside diameter, then cut it down to size it for a proper press fit with the bracket. It will take some machining and accurate measurements to get it right.

Re adjustable lifters, I have used both types. The lock nuts on the three spanner type are marginal. They are so thin that it is easy to strip them. I have had to resort to thinning down a proper nut to replace at least two of them. Since then I have uased the self locking type, with no problems. H...

To adjust, I have measured the gap with the lifter all the way down. Let's say it's 20 thou. Then rotated the engine to put the valve all the way up and put a dial indicator on it. Then adjust to take out the difference between the 20 thou and what you want, in my case 12 thou. Repeat for the remai...

Allan,

Use the adjustable tappets with the locking nut, versus the "self-locking" style.

Well, here's my progress... I ordered 4 Autolite AP5405 plugs from Amazon. Good price, free shipping, bought & shipped by Amazon, (no shady 3rd party seller). So, what I received were 4 used , random brand plugs! Thank you, Amazon :x What a joke! They're being returned today. Going to buy them at a ...

Craig Leach wrote: ↑
Wed Jan 28, 2026 5:39 pm
Been running Autolite 66 for twenty years
With no issues they are copper core non
Resistor. Have run them in 2 stroke race
engines @ 13,000+ rpm so I think they do
well on coils. Most Auto parts store have
them or can get them asap the price is
usually in the $2 range.
Craig.

Thanks, Craig!

KWTownsend wrote: ↑
Tue Jan 27, 2026 4:43 pm
I run Bosch Platinum 4003. FR9HP

20260127_133748.jpg

Whatever you use, make sure the top unscrews.

I replaced the original nuts with some period-ish looking thumb nuts.

: ^ )

Keith

Keith,

I believe the 4003 are what I've used in the past, but I think they were discontinued.

Where on the top irons do the trim pieces go? I have a 26 with top irons and I have those small trim pieces but I don't know where they go? Just as the picture shows, the square end cap goes at the end of the hidem welt, adjacent to the front & rear seat arm rest end caps. The spear end caps go at ...

Plugs are cheap really, so play around with them and see which works best. But word of advice, my opinion (others have seen it too); if you are running coils look for plugs with no "R" in the number. The resistors don't seem to like the huge swings in current/voltage esp. if running the magneto. Th...

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Tue Jan 27, 2026 1:48 pm
They're made of Unobtainium by the Nonesuch Corporation.

Thanks for that valuable input...

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Tue Jan 27, 2026 11:59 am
My choice would be platinum plugs that looked exactly like early Champion X plugs. The platinum wire type plug would facilitate starting on magneto.

Is that what you use, Pat? What number & make would those be?

speedytinc wrote: ↑
Tue Jan 27, 2026 12:05 pm
Been a long time since I ran a Z. I believe I ran Autolite platinum AP5405 in the Z.
I still run these in a lizard head.

Yes, I see other references to AP5405 in other forum threads. Also, some Champion 16YC plugs are mentioned.

I'll be replacing the plugs in my '26 Fordor. The plugs are so old that I believe they've since been discontinued. They're currently Bosch Platinums. If it matters, I'm using a distributor, (forgive me, please). I don't have the car handy to check the numbers right now. Regardless of what's in it no...

Those measurements don't look very far off, more of a side to side tilt than anything else. If you really want to feel better then set the corners on jack stands and remeasure. That is up to you. You have to ask yourself - How did I feel about it's alignment and look before I took it apart? Model T...

It doesn't matter.

Auction link???

Looks as if you've done a great job!

The same thing applies with me making a drawing of a Wheel that I pulled off of a new Ford pickup and copyrighting my drawing. Now if it is my own design or my own artwork that received no inspiration from an existing wheel, then maybe I can. In other words, if I draw a picture of a Ford F150 Wheel...

I know this is an older thread , but do you need to run a water pump on this radiator ? I’ve got a brass works on order , but have several more T’s to build and am curious as to how well these perform .. thanks The radiator in my '26 Fordor is a recore. My dad initally ran it without a water pump. ...

Wayne This axle is from car #22 that was at the Winter Clinic.... The axle angle is exactly the same as a 1912 we are working on. Unfortunately we have not other early car to compare it to. We have removed the axle and are going to remove the perches and try a different set of perches. We do not kn...

Darren, Sorry to say, but your felloes are in poor condition. The wide flanges on the "backside" of the felloes are supposed to be angled. Yours have been badly bent over, flattened out & dented, probably from someone driving the car without rims mounted. As such, the rims will not properly seat on ...

Am I correct that the early axles, with the shallow yokes, have a notch to clear the spindle arms? I know the NRS axles are like that. If so, it's clear what is the front side of the axle and it is not possible to "turn the axle around" as those clearance notches would be mislocated. Again, I'm goin...

The bots are laughing at you all right now.

Maybe used in a T engine conversion for marine use. A shaft sticking out the side for an "IN-OUT" clutch control, and "something" going in the top to engage reverse. (Or visa-versa with the controls, with the side shaft for reverse and the top "something" for "IN-OUT" clutch control)

I've seen this done on many sidelamps. Sometimes in period photos, and sometimes on lamps at swap meets. Not so much on restored cars.

I think #2 is a modified Model S. On further scrutiny, you might be right. Certainly has some aspects of an S. Interesting, I don’t think I’ve seen a photo of an S cut down into a speedster, and the starter crank is in an interesting spot. Yes. An NRS chassis but with a modified Model T radiator an...

Those thoughts usually come rushing into my head at 2:30AM. It's a magical time of night, when my subconscious mind decides to question everything I've ever done.

Not going back to sleep after that.

Mine had some cracks as well. I took it to a welding shop that was located across the street from the former Ford Highland Park Plant, (seemed fitting). I handed it to the guy and said, "This is from a 1907 Ford Model N." He snapped back and said he knew what the hell it was. I should have known tha...

A friend of mine had repeated problems with coolant in the oil. After 3 new head gaskets, and having the Z head re-decked, it was finally discovered that there was a crack in the Z head. It was only found by doing a pressure test on it. I did one of the head gasket replacements. I very closely visua...

George Mills wrote: ↑
Sun Jan 11, 2026 6:20 pm
Thanks,

Son checked closer, found nameplate—-is a Wizard —-lol

Must have been a good carby…never an issue in my 29 years of stewardship! He just thought to rebuild it ‘just ‘cause’ as part of his stewardship.

My personal experience is, "just because" rebuilds are never worthwhile.

Another question from my side how much play should I create in length direction for the crankshaft? The flanges of the first and third main bearing should keep the crankshaft in place in length direction. But this is quite a distance and I may consider expension of the crankshaft caused by temperat...

Daisy Mae wrote: ↑
Fri Jan 09, 2026 10:32 am
Yes to all that.
Just another fun Ford T observation!
Quirky things that they are!

Yes, agreed!

They're apparently a "knock-off" version. Cool!

The part is correct where it needs to be. The "as cast" surface is non-functional. Variations in castings were/are common. Apparently, this hub has been functional for 116 years and I suppose any balance issues have not yet arisen in all that time.

speedytinc wrote: ↑
Thu Jan 08, 2026 1:52 pm
Remove the plug & confirm the valves are functioning. There is the possibility of a broken spring or retainer pin.

Add to that, check the tappet clearance, especially if you have the self-locking adjustable tappets, (which don't self-lock sometimes).

A late firing coil can make a cylinder a poor performer. Keep us posted on how it goes. Mike Bob, Check your timing at each cylinder, not just at #1. Also, you state that you see a spark when shorting #3. A spark at atmospheric pressure does not guaranty that a spark is occurring in the cylinder, a...

I could be wrong, but I believe those are for a T.

UPDATE: Yup, I was wrong

JZSlenker wrote: ↑
Sat Jan 03, 2026 8:46 pm
Jerry, no one has them in stock.

Well, darn it. I see others have come to the rescue, however!

Original Smith wrote: ↑
Mon Jan 05, 2026 11:37 am
I've never seen a 1915 that looks like a 1926!

... and I've never seen a 1926 that looks like a 1915.

There are uses where such a part could be safely used. A useful tool for turning wheels for painting wheels or checking for trueness (as long as the spindle is cut or altered such that it cannot return to its original purpose?) Yes! Making certain it can't be re-used for road use is critical. We kn...

We were down this road over a month ago...

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=50620&p=381310#p381310

My 1907, green N, with red chassis, feels validated.

No meme to offer, just want to say what I hell of a time I had turning my clocks ahead 1 year...

(ya, I know, that was lame

)

WorldChamp1914 wrote: ↑
Sat Jan 03, 2026 2:08 am
I learned that it’s for a pre-state plate made out of leather or wood.

I think it would be a poor choice to mount a leather plate, since it only holds the plate by 1 corner, allowing it to flop around.

Will, My reason for asking if you're making steam is that the motometer, while giving interesting feedback of relative temperatures, is not a precise instrument. As others have mentioned, take the coolant temperature using a more accurate method, or simply notice if it's actually boiling. Hoping for...

Even IF the rollers had .010 wear, still far superior to the solid roller bearings. Of course these do not have that kind of wear and the price is very reasonable. Mark maybe you should make a official announcement that they are usable with up to .010 wear... They're not. (They're just better than ...

When it's hot, are you also blowing steam out of the overflow tube?

1922 t wrote: ↑
Sat Dec 27, 2025 8:32 pm
That sounds fine do you know the length of them so I'll be sure it fits for my car like 23 and 3/8 in at least

All T bands should be the same length. There aren't different lengths.

varmint wrote: ↑
Sun Dec 28, 2025 4:01 am
But the OP photo shows 4 rivets.
It also has the improved transmission ears, albeit w/o the two screws.

And the #3 coil is put in backwards. A lot of things can be changed over 100 years.

It also has a 1926 steering column.

I guess it comes down to not using cheap taps.

Don't use a tap, it will remove precious material from the bolt hole. Instead use a thread chaser its meant for cleaning threads not removing any material. I don't mean to debate you and I do undertsand the reasoning behind this. What sticks in mind is that these threads were originally made with t...

Scott, I thank you for your kind words. I completely agree that some of the “newer” T collectors don’t “get it”. I have met some who think they were smarter than Henry Ford. I like collecting the old tools and “improvements” of the day. I have read a lot of good post and some that make me roll my e...

Scott_Conger wrote: ↑
Fri Dec 26, 2025 8:12 pm
It's a display piece and honestly it seems as if an awful lot of folks in the hobby just don't "get it" these days.

Amen...

Closely inspect the flat mounting surface of your crankcase, where the cylinders attach. Many crankcases have "sagged out" in the center, causing the cylinder castings to lean in towards each other. Even if you line bore the main bearings, which will compensate for a sagged crankcase, your cylinder ...

Has anyone noticed that the OP seems to have left the building?

OK. I checked this, that and the other. I'm pretty sure I have a bent left rear axle. You are correct in saying that the floating hub has NO wobble. The disk brake rotor has NO wobble but the hub (wheel adapter, cause I have spoked wheels) is where the wobble is NOW, How do I drop the rear end to r...

Dan Hatch wrote: ↑
Tue Dec 23, 2025 8:30 pm
There is a Stevens Front axle tool on the classifieds. Not mine just passing on information.

That's certainly a very nice one too!

Has it been determined that this type of repair is needed for this axle?

I've had the car for about seven years and I drive a lot year round. Last week a gentleman behind me motioned for me to pull over and told me about the problem. Yes, I have a little wobble on the right rear but the left is probably 3/4". I plan on pulling the drum/disk off today. bobt Yup, that's a...

A lot of T's have wheels that wobble. It comes down to how bad the wobble is. So, how much wobble have you got?

DHort wrote: ↑
Mon Dec 22, 2025 1:23 pm
Jerry

Does your wife only allow you one color marker at a time?

Good diagram to pull up and label. Thanks to you n Martin on that.

Dave,

I just prefer the taste of green crayons over all the others.

dykker5502 wrote: ↑
Mon Dec 22, 2025 8:10 am
Tom, we already have a thread for this: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=51220

I think it's possible to have more than one Christmas thread.

Thanks for the photo, Tom!

Merry Christmas!!

Maybe this will help. Thanks to Martin Vowell for his excellent diagram, which I adulterated with my notes...

Some of these may not be the official Ford names, but most folks will understand what they mean.

T Front End.pdf: (339.98 KiB) Downloaded 53 times

the steel member that the spindles connect to on each side. i'm probably calling it something different that is causing confusion. I think that's the problem. ;) The piece that holds the bronze bushings and that you mount the wheels to is called the "spindle". The arm that attaches to the spindle, ...

speedytinc wrote: ↑
Sat Dec 20, 2025 7:16 pm

I have welded up an arm & remachined oversize to compensate for slight body wear. Thats a bit of a trick.

I have done the same thing. It worked well enough, however, in the long run, I ended up buying a reproduction 26/27 shifter assembly from Chaffins. A far better design.

I can only guess that helpful, well meaning suggestions with regards to tailgate latches led to some hurt feelings. I dunno...

Dan, I believe the plugs are located over the pistons, causing the flame path to direct combustion pressure towards the valves, and not towards the piston, where it can do the most good. Jerry Yes, was mistaken as been years ago, here is pic off eBay site showing plug over piston, and weird flame g...

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