MTFCA Forum

I don't believe the radiator would be a good template for you. Do you have the hood? If so, I would use that as your template instead.

What does Rootlieb say about it?

I am always a bit baffled when someone has an issue with a part supplied by a vendor, and they will ask everyone but the vendor about a solution to their problem.

This is an old thread but I wanted to leave a comment. Rich Eagle who posted earlier in the thread was a friend of mine and passed away in 2024 and I now own the ‘09 touring. Regardless of how much of the car is original and how many different cars the parts came from I wouldn’t be happier if it wa...

It basically looks like a long rivet, or a typical hinge pin.

Those bands are good wall hangers and conversation pieces. Use the real thing.

Jerry, I've tried resizing the picture that I took with my cell phone, so many times that I'm now cross eyed. I give up. Sorry, can't post picture. Terry, No problem. Is there enough room in there to drill a very small hole and install a tiny roll pin or dowel? Obviously, nothing large enough to we...

I met Sam in 1968 when he opened Motor City Antique Auto Supply in St. Clair Shores, Michigan. Having a Model A 31 DeLuxe Roadster he quickly introduced me to Hershey. We went there in 1968 and 1969. Then in late 1969 Uncle Sam had the first draft lottery an I was immediately inducted into the Army...

I don't believe there was any question as to whether or not alternators can be dependable. The question seems to be whether or not the possible 40A - 80A output concerns anyone. I suppose a battery with an internal short, or a short anywhere else the charging circuit, could trigger the max alternato...

Jerry, I'm not sure what good posting a picture of the handle will do, but here you go. The square shaft was originally crimped in the area where the vise grips are attached holding the spring and retainer in proper place. One small bead of weld on two opposite sides of the shaft would also hold th...

I have an improved car outside door handle with a broken, rusted spring behind the escutcheon plate. Taking it apart to replace the broken spring was easy, I just had to grind/file the crimped shoulders behind the spring retainer to remove the retainers and the broken spring from the square shaft. ...

Suspend them from a tag wire and hold over a candle flame. It burns away the parafin(?) that binds them together. Heat gun might work too...

They look like this...

From Howell's Sheet Metal

I have an improved car outside door handle with a broken, rusted spring behind the escutcheon plate. Taking it apart to replace the broken spring was easy, I just had to grind/file the crimped shoulders behind the spring retainer to remove the retainers and the broken spring from the square shaft. ...

NorthSouth wrote: ↑
Mon Nov 17, 2025 12:56 pm
-
Lee Chase, MTFCA Member #29 and early member of the Model T Ford Club of Southern California, and his 1909 Two Pedal - Two Lever Touring. Los Angeles Circa 1963.
-
IMG_0865.jpeg

It's pulling a boat trailer! I love it!

1. Pedal goes to the floor before reverse engages. 2. Pedal has "normal height", (i.e. not going to the floor or very low), transmission is "screaming", but car won't back up. 3. Same as #2, but no screaming trans noises. What are you seeing? Don't just tighten up the band if your issue is like #2 ...

"No more reverse" can be experienced in several ways... 1. Pedal goes to the floor before reverse engages. 2. Pedal has "normal height", (i.e. not going to the floor or very low), transmission is "screaming", but car won't back up. 3. Same as #2, but no screaming trans noises. What are you seeing? D...

Mark Chaffin wrote: ↑
Sat Nov 15, 2025 11:15 pm
These are much taller than T. Maybe N, R, S?

No. Thay have flat, cast aluminum covers, held on with 6 bolts.

Early transmission cover?

frontyboy wrote: ↑
Sat Nov 15, 2025 12:52 am
How do I get ahold of the guy that makes new transmission brake drums? I want to buy one for my speedster project

thx

frontyboy

https://www.davesrestorationandmachine.com/

Dave Nolting. Great guy!

Also... https://www.jandm-machine.com/custom_works.html

Great products as well.

- Scott wrote; “I refrained from posting for about a year and it didn't kill me, so rather than annoy folks who I respect, I'll simply focus on my items "for sale".” Dear Scott, Please do not rob our ranks of your knowledge, experience, and skill. The members and guests here benefit from your input...

Now the fan. I have never taken one apart as this whole T experience is new to me. I had NO idea that fan was designed to have oil in it and was spinning on bronze bushings. So cleaned it up inspected the shaft, not too bad, some play but wouldn't call it loose. The felt gasket is in rough shape. G...

Welcome back! Sorry for the hard road to get here, however.

Broke a tooth off 1911 Hupp pinion. Decided to replace rear end internals & driveshaft with Model T ‘guts’. Went from 4:1 ring/pinion to 3.63:1. A new Hupp friend in OR made the adapter plate enabling the T ring gear. I've seen Hupps with a whole Model T differential case and Ruckstell installed on...

A recording by Thomas Edison, from 1918, fittingly entitled, "Let Us Not Forget".

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bft2LnuYUMA

Indeed, let us not forget those who gave all for our freedom. May they rest in Peace.

A KC Warford + the Ruxtell will give you all the speed(s) you'd want in a TT, and a gear for most any situation. I was under the impression that the worm gear would be the limiting factor when it came to speed? An accessory overdrive wouldn't remove that particular bottleneck, because it's on the w...

Frankly, I'm looking into modifying a car diff and pumpkin to attach to the TT driveshaft and axles to attain something resembling the neighborhood speed limit! Since the old gal isn't going to be hauling a ton of rocks anytime soon, the torque won't be missed. No need to get rid of the Ruckstell. ...

Oh boy. That’s a lot of good stuff. Even open valve blocks on the shelf. If your not bidding on-site, be aware that he had several open valve blocks that had the mains overbored to fit Scat cranks with Model A sized journals. Also, had the intake ports widened a bunch. Maybe you like that kind of s...

Newspapers left a trail before and after this November 6 story. Research of newspaper archives revealed Reeves Pulley VP Milton O. Reeves IMG_1338.jpeg We see Reeves left for Detroit with his 20 hp motor and 12 hp cats to demonstrate for a potential buyer on October 17, 1905, returning on November ...

Original Smith wrote: ↑
Wed Nov 05, 2025 11:53 am
I have a half dozen old stock Scandanavia band linings, which should last me the rest of my life!

Especially if they're rotten.

Just teasing, Larry.

Terry wrote: ↑
Wed Nov 05, 2025 11:05 am
Is this for sale

"All questions should be referred to Dwayne Strand at: three sx O 929 seven one 58 or moosecity at gmail.com"

If you really want to buy something, don't make the seller come and look for you. You need to take the initiative to reach out to them.

Hello is this car available Terry, Instead of asking on the Forum, it may be best to contact the owner directly and personally, if you have not already done so. If the car has not sold by now, I'm sure the owner is no longer visiting this 2-year-old ad, looking for prospective buyers. chornbuckle@c...

I would not remove ANY leaves. I did that with my Speedster and nearly got in a bad accident. The reduced leaf rear spring caused the rear end to hop violently as I hit a small bump while braking. The car came around sideways and only missed hitting a Ford Mustang, (who had cut me off btw :x ), due ...

Altair wrote: ↑
Sun Nov 02, 2025 10:16 pm
The original horn button came out of the center of the steering wheel.

Yes, but only on Canadian cars.

Terry, When the door is swung open, does the handle still droop, or does it only droop when the door is shut? If it always droops, then the trouble is likely within the door latch mechanism itself. If it only droops when shut, then I'm thinking that the latch bolt is not fully engaging with the stri...

My best guess is that no such original product was ever made. For one thing, I'm thinking that the winged pyramid was out of use by 1912, long before Ford made TT trucks and tractors, (1917). Not saying it isn't cool, but I believe it's a "fantasy piece." That being said, there should be more out th...

Rich P. Bingham wrote: ↑
Sun Nov 02, 2025 10:52 am
Now, what about Marvel Mystery Oil ??

Best hair tonic ever!!

This is the sort of thing that can ramble on forever, with everyone giving their opinion, and no real consensus as to what to do. How about we forget all this stuff, let the MTFCA Forum administrators do their jobs as they see fit, and get back to the business of Model T Fords. We speak of what will...

JvanMaanen wrote: ↑
Fri Oct 31, 2025 11:38 pm
Thanks,
The new ones are kevlar, will give wood a try on the low band

I had Guinn make me a special wood lining for my N. If I recall correctly, the Model T version was not exactly right for an NRS.

Shrshot wrote: ↑
Wed Oct 29, 2025 5:02 pm

Dan Hatch wrote: ↑
Wed Oct 29, 2025 12:58 pm
Does it say Made in Canada on the radiator shell?
Maybe just has a Canadian engine?

Dan, Good eye, it does say "Made in Canada" on the front radiator shell below the Ford script.

My eyes see "Made in U.S.A." Really hard to tell, however.

Jim, The original band linings were hard, red fiber. As such, they needed no soaking. I'm guessing you're using a woven lining? Kevlar? If so, it would not hurt a bit to pre-soak them. For what it's worth, on my N, I have Kevlar on brake and reverse and wood on the low band. Given the ability to com...

Why not build a real 1925 pickup? I built mine from scratch as a retirement project in 2003. It took me seven years to do the restoration using authentic genuine Ford parts, including the nuts and bolts. I did everything myself in my backyard and garage. Larry, I'm betting because he's 20 years old...

Austin, the ring gear is under rotational stress being driven by the pinion gear. A shim doubles the interfaces between the two components, just as it does on the rear axle wheel interface when a shim is used. These are working combinations of components relying on absolute fit to make a solid join...

I've rebuilt a few rear ends. I've never had to use ring gear shims and I agree with the other poster that they should be avoided. I set the gear mesh only by properly sizing the thickness of the bronze thrust washer and adjusting the depth of the pinion with the thickness of the gasket between the ...

speedytinc wrote: ↑
Tue Oct 28, 2025 1:19 pm
Neat piece however........... Not T?
Input looks to be bigger (1/4 npt). Judging size by the finger, looks too short.
It looks like a device oiler, not a crankcase site gauge.

All good points. Thanks!

Adam wrote: ↑
Tue Oct 28, 2025 3:36 pm
NOT a Model T oil sight glass…

OKAY. Thanks for pointing that out.

Not mine. I have nothing to do with it. Hoping someone here will buy it, so I don't have to. I've never seen one with the "Full" & "Low" markings. It's been pointed out, however, that this is not for a Model T... :( https://www.ebay.com/itm/326830014676?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo...

varmint wrote: ↑
Mon Oct 27, 2025 1:03 pm
Saw a missing freeze plug hole and the 1926 Indian was sitting on the hood shelf, which I was happy to find. The two bison must have scared him off. Called for a toe.

And that's where the novelty of using coins instead of the proper Welch plug wears off.

I JUST DID A INTERNET SEARCH - JAMES H. McNEAL III LOCATION - I came up with several in California listing that paticular name along with phone numbers, some that were deceased and some that moved. I would suggest doing the search that way and call the ones with the numbers listed. Tried that, no o...

DHort wrote: ↑
Thu Oct 23, 2025 12:34 pm
Moxie

It was 1AM when I typed it, so I guess % was on my mind. Must have been thinking of tariffs.

Mike, thank you for all that info.

I think we all knew what you meant Dave

Looking for a 1914 touring in good running condition although I would consider others. I'm located in Michigan. Not interested if it's painted red. Appreciate any help locating one. There's a nice one for sale in the Oct. V.F. magazine...call Jim @ 402-580-3763 I did, it's a ways off, and I planned...

Ed and Will get it. A good number of people in this hobby of ours are really missing an important point. This antique car thing.....is a hobby!!! Not an investment. We acquire a car because we love it. We sink all the money in it that we're capable of doing, because.....we love it. The fact that we...

I took both cables off of the switch and cleaned the terminals and cable ends. they were corroded. I checked the switch with an ohmmeter and it worked correctly. After putting it all back together and several starts the starter button did not get hot and the starter turns like it should. I think I ...

I usually assemble with the springs nearly fully compressed. The thought being, that if the wishbone gets yanked forward, the springs will not be able to further compress enough to allow the ball to come out of the socket. You only need to see that happen once in order to guard against it.

Thanks for all the replies. Is it a good idea to replace the pitman arm at the same time? Not as a general rule. If it's in good condition just reuse it. Inspect the ball for wear, (undersize, not round, etc.) Also, have a close look at the woodruff key and keyway. There should be no slop between t...

I am working on a 26 that will start but turns over pretty slow but the starter will only drag if tried again a second time and the starter switch gets red hot. The cable to the battery gets hot also. I cleaned all the connections, same thing. The starter does not feel hot. Bad starter? Art Art, Se...

Does the horn motor run at all, or is everything totally dead? As to being able to adjust it in the past, with anything, there is only so much adjustment you can do before you simply run out of adjustment and things become too worn out. You've been given some good advice, above, but to help you furt...

John.Zibell wrote: ↑
Mon Oct 20, 2025 10:45 am

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑
Sun Oct 19, 2025 1:02 pm

John.Zibell wrote: ↑
Sun Oct 19, 2025 10:54 am
I had that happen once. Snugged up the spindle bolts and it hasn't happened since.
That's often a temporary fix and can mask the real cause. Just something to keep in mind if the trouble returns.
Trouble never returned. Everything else was tight.

Awesome! Happy touring

John.Zibell wrote: ↑
Sun Oct 19, 2025 10:54 am
I had that happen once. Snugged up the spindle bolts and it hasn't happened since.

That's often a temporary fix and can mask the real cause. Just something to keep in mind if the trouble returns.

Does the cable from the starter switch to the starter get hot as well? If it does, then the problem is likely in the starter. If not, then the issue is maybe within the switch itself.

Your original issue involved a similarly fractured gear tooth. This is most likely due to these ring gears being improperly heat treated and/or being made of the wrong material. I would very much expect that any replacement from the same source would yield the same result.

Sorry if I sound dumb but what should be the distance of the main leaf on a 7 leaf spring. Eye to Eye. Also should that measurement be taken when it is assembled with all springs attached or by itself. On the floor or on the shackles. Would a spring that is too long only get longer when compressed ...

It really appears as if your spindle arm ends have been shortened in their width, either by wear or ??? Hard to tell from your photo, but it also seems that your left side spindle arm is a bit mangled. It does not appear to have the same graceful "S" curve that the right side has.

I run 55 - 60 psi. With less than that, I had lots of tire problems, but no troubles at the higher pressures.

I had a great time and made a nice chunk of money with relatively few items. Green field was relatively busy, both with vendors and shoppers, well into late Thursday. Other fields were not so great. Red field was pretty sparse for vendors all week long.

Jim: you made the right choices. You’re going to find over time here at the Forum that there are people out there that just HAVE to experiment on their T’s. They try the damndest things and swear on a stack of bibles and Grandpa’s grave that it works. Use what you’d use in your modern and you can’t...

Is the fire engine a combination unit? I see the chemical tanks, but can't see if it has a pump.

Dan Hatch wrote: ↑
Thu Oct 02, 2025 10:17 am
Aren’t those the 1921 one piece spindles? Only used for a few months? Dan

I think so too...

fireheadman wrote: ↑
Wed Oct 01, 2025 1:51 pm
I'm thinking it probably needs some maintenance done to it.

It needs a complete rebuild.

Herb Iffrig wrote: ↑
Tue Sep 30, 2025 12:25 am
monkeyville.png

Where was Monkeyville?

Maybe this will help...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUz3120gBQo

TillieTheTouring wrote: ↑
Sun Sep 28, 2025 11:55 am
Thank God that's over with.

Was this somehow trying for you?

Besides the tension of the straps, I'm hoping there is something on the bottom side of the hood to prevent it from sliding backwards, towards the driver.

Very cool BTW. I'm already jealous of the fun you'll have in the race!

I place it sitting verticallly on a piece of carpet, or cardboard, or even grass. Folding it in a sort of "W" configuration.

DHort wrote: ↑
Thu Sep 25, 2025 11:38 am
I see.

2 posts about the same thing at the same time.

I am so confused. Both are old postings..

Still, good advice, nonetheless!

You can get much of the benefit of hot oil by changing out the old oil for 10W30 cut with MMO. Pouring some MMO directly into the transmission can be very helpful at cutting gum. I'd pour the MMO in the trans with the clutch in "neutral". He's referring to Marvel Mystery Oil... I am not a fan of it...

Scott H., On 9/12, it was suggested that you do this... If [left] in gear (brake lever forward) there is generally less drag. Try starting with one [rear] wheel up, in gear. You should notice it's easier to crank. [/i] Have you done this? Unfortunately since this move this month all I've had to rea...

Scott H.,

On 9/12, it was suggested that you do this...

If [left] in gear (brake lever forward) there is generally less drag.
Try starting with one [rear] wheel up, in gear. You should notice it's easier to crank.

Have you done this?

You would cut the down the airflow in each carburetor by half, compared to running just one carburetor. I think it only makes sense if your one carb was undersized to begin with. That said, I am no carburation expert...

Ha! Happy for you to see that my cornball theory was incorrect.

South Park Zephyr wrote: ↑
Mon Sep 22, 2025 2:28 pm
Jerry,
Can I ask where you found that reamer?

Scott

Scott,

I did a Google search for "valve guide reamer" and that was one of the first images that popped up. There were many more of the same style.

Well... that's not good. Just for fun, if you block the holes from underneath and try to blow air through, does the air flow into the water jacket, or is there no escape for the air? The reason I ask is I'm wondering if someone enlarged the holes, drilled all the way through, then lined the holes wi...

When reaming for oversized valve stems, does the reamer follow the worn guide and produce satisfactory results? Is some kind of fixturing required to be sure the new valves will land squarely on the seats? Thanks. Mike As others have stated, you need a guide to keep everything in line. You also sho...

If you don't use adjustable lifters, you have to set the valve clearance by grinding some length off of the valve stem, (and not by just holding the stem in your hand and using a bench grinder) . You can't just drop in new valves and expect the correct clearance. Having the cupped lifters, as you d...

If you don't use adjustable lifters, you have to set the valve clearance by grinding some length off of the valve stem, (and not by just holding the stem in your hand and using a bench grinder) . You can't just drop in new valves and expect the correct clearance. Having the cupped lifters, as you do...

I think the tag on that radiator was probably from a radiator repair company. They normally applied one whenever they worked on a radiator, so they could keep track of warranty claims. The scratched numbers would reflect the workorder of the repair, so they could look it up and confirm what they ha...

Jerry, Don or Mike? ;) To me, it's a tie depending on subject matter. Tom is always emailing me cool stuff that Mike digs up. I wish I had the time to deep dive like he does. I really want to see his presentation on the early Ford airplane stuff! That's my current major 'Ford' interest. Maybe once ...

That filler neck will fall off again if it isn’t mechanically attached to the tank somehow before it is sealed with solder. Maybe... maybe not. It's been maybe 25 years that I've had my Speedster. I bought a really nice, freshly re-cored radiator for it at a swap meet for only $150. When I went to ...

That filler neck will fall off again if it isn’t mechanically attached to the tank somehow before it is sealed with solder. Maybe... maybe not. It's been maybe 25 years that I've had my Speedster. I bought a really nice, freshly re-cored radiator for it at a swap meet for only $150. When I went to ...

The riveted one is correct.

Stephen1915 wrote: ↑
Sun Sep 14, 2025 3:33 pm
My two Coupelets out together for the first time.

Stephen,

I sent you an email. Let me know if you got it.

Thanks!!

Notice that your replacement gear does not have the small, spring loaded, plunger pin that goes into the small hole in the flange counterweight. It is essential that it be there or your bendix gear will drift into the ring gear at will.

: 2.png (106.49 KiB) Viewed 303 times

Larry, This is not the first time you've asked about this photo. Back in 2021(?), I received the following reply from the best Ford historian I know. I stumbled across that email again this morning... The Eleanor Clay and Edsel Ford Honeymoon house at 2171 Iroquios Street in Indian Village [Detroit]...

Keith is definitely correct about the bolt/nut orientation, however, after snagging my hand on the castle nut and cotter pin too many times, I reversed it and put the nut on the inside.

It is a PTFE tape, which I did look up as being ok with petroleum products. However when comparing PTFE vs Teflon, they seem to be the same thing unless it is yellow. since the tank isn't installed, I will get that removed to be certain/safe and instead use a liquid petroleum tolerant paste. Thanks...

When the magneto works, it's best to run it that way. However, if you have a bad magneto, there is no harm running on battery.

I used an NOS intake manifold some years ago. The car wouldn't run right no matter what I did. Turned out, the interior passages were half blocked with casting flash. Into the trash it went!

Mr. VanOoteghem, anything relating to a T is refractory by nature. Okay. I had in mind the noun and not the adjective... Words... :? Sorry for not being helpful, I couldn’t keep from giving myself a little chuckle No, you were helpful, (to me anyway)! You got my mind pointed in the right direction....

Tadpole wrote: ↑
Sun Sep 14, 2025 8:42 am

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑
Sun Sep 14, 2025 8:37 am
What's a "refractory brake rod"? I have no idea whatsoever what this thread is about...
Mr. VanOoteghem, anything relating to a T is refractory by nature.

Okay. I had in mind the noun and not the adjective... Words...

What's a "refractory brake rod"? I have no idea whatsoever what this thread is about...

Rob,

Did it ever run smoother, or has it always done this? In other words, is this a new thing?

The Stover is unique in that the directing vane is next to the fan blade and not behind it. Tom, I believe that many windmills had this feature. The vane is meant to hinge in order to fair the fan during high winds or when the mill is meant to be stopped. The self-fairing windmill will adjust it's ...

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