MTFCA Forum

I could be wrong, but I believe those are for a T.

JZSlenker wrote: ↑
Sat Jan 03, 2026 8:46 pm
Jerry, no one has them in stock.

Well, darn it. I see others have come to the rescue, however!

Original Smith wrote: ↑
Mon Jan 05, 2026 11:37 am
I've never seen a 1915 that looks like a 1926!

... and I've never seen a 1926 that looks like a 1915.

There are uses where such a part could be safely used. A useful tool for turning wheels for painting wheels or checking for trueness (as long as the spindle is cut or altered such that it cannot return to its original purpose?) Yes! Making certain it can't be re-used for road use is critical. We kn...

We were down this road over a month ago...

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=50620&p=381310#p381310

My 1907, green N, with red chassis, feels validated.

No meme to offer, just want to say what I hell of a time I had turning my clocks ahead 1 year...

(ya, I know, that was lame

)

WorldChamp1914 wrote: ↑
Sat Jan 03, 2026 2:08 am
I learned that it’s for a pre-state plate made out of leather or wood.

I think it would be a poor choice to mount a leather plate, since it only holds the plate by 1 corner, allowing it to flop around.

Will, My reason for asking if you're making steam is that the motometer, while giving interesting feedback of relative temperatures, is not a precise instrument. As others have mentioned, take the coolant temperature using a more accurate method, or simply notice if it's actually boiling. Hoping for...

Even IF the rollers had .010 wear, still far superior to the solid roller bearings. Of course these do not have that kind of wear and the price is very reasonable. Mark maybe you should make a official announcement that they are usable with up to .010 wear... They're not. (They're just better than ...

When it's hot, are you also blowing steam out of the overflow tube?

1922 t wrote: ↑
Sat Dec 27, 2025 8:32 pm
That sounds fine do you know the length of them so I'll be sure it fits for my car like 23 and 3/8 in at least

All T bands should be the same length. There aren't different lengths.

varmint wrote: ↑
Sun Dec 28, 2025 4:01 am
But the OP photo shows 4 rivets.
It also has the improved transmission ears, albeit w/o the two screws.

And the #3 coil is put in backwards. A lot of things can be changed over 100 years.

It also has a 1926 steering column.

I guess it comes down to not using cheap taps.

Don't use a tap, it will remove precious material from the bolt hole. Instead use a thread chaser its meant for cleaning threads not removing any material. I don't mean to debate you and I do undertsand the reasoning behind this. What sticks in mind is that these threads were originally made with t...

Scott, I thank you for your kind words. I completely agree that some of the “newer” T collectors don’t “get it”. I have met some who think they were smarter than Henry Ford. I like collecting the old tools and “improvements” of the day. I have read a lot of good post and some that make me roll my e...

Scott_Conger wrote: ↑
Fri Dec 26, 2025 8:12 pm
It's a display piece and honestly it seems as if an awful lot of folks in the hobby just don't "get it" these days.

Amen...

Closely inspect the flat mounting surface of your crankcase, where the cylinders attach. Many crankcases have "sagged out" in the center, causing the cylinder castings to lean in towards each other. Even if you line bore the main bearings, which will compensate for a sagged crankcase, your cylinder ...

Has anyone noticed that the OP seems to have left the building?

OK. I checked this, that and the other. I'm pretty sure I have a bent left rear axle. You are correct in saying that the floating hub has NO wobble. The disk brake rotor has NO wobble but the hub (wheel adapter, cause I have spoked wheels) is where the wobble is NOW, How do I drop the rear end to r...

Dan Hatch wrote: ↑
Tue Dec 23, 2025 8:30 pm
There is a Stevens Front axle tool on the classifieds. Not mine just passing on information.

That's certainly a very nice one too!

Has it been determined that this type of repair is needed for this axle?

I've had the car for about seven years and I drive a lot year round. Last week a gentleman behind me motioned for me to pull over and told me about the problem. Yes, I have a little wobble on the right rear but the left is probably 3/4". I plan on pulling the drum/disk off today. bobt Yup, that's a...

A lot of T's have wheels that wobble. It comes down to how bad the wobble is. So, how much wobble have you got?

DHort wrote: ↑
Mon Dec 22, 2025 1:23 pm
Jerry

Does your wife only allow you one color marker at a time?

Good diagram to pull up and label. Thanks to you n Martin on that.

Dave,

I just prefer the taste of green crayons over all the others.

dykker5502 wrote: ↑
Mon Dec 22, 2025 8:10 am
Tom, we already have a thread for this: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=51220

I think it's possible to have more than one Christmas thread.

Thanks for the photo, Tom!

Merry Christmas!!

Maybe this will help. Thanks to Martin Vowell for his excellent diagram, which I adulterated with my notes...

Some of these may not be the official Ford names, but most folks will understand what they mean.

T Front End.pdf: (339.98 KiB) Downloaded 25 times

the steel member that the spindles connect to on each side. i'm probably calling it something different that is causing confusion. I think that's the problem. ;) The piece that holds the bronze bushings and that you mount the wheels to is called the "spindle". The arm that attaches to the spindle, ...

speedytinc wrote: ↑
Sat Dec 20, 2025 7:16 pm

I have welded up an arm & remachined oversize to compensate for slight body wear. Thats a bit of a trick.

I have done the same thing. It worked well enough, however, in the long run, I ended up buying a reproduction 26/27 shifter assembly from Chaffins. A far better design.

I can only guess that helpful, well meaning suggestions with regards to tailgate latches led to some hurt feelings. I dunno...

Dan, I believe the plugs are located over the pistons, causing the flame path to direct combustion pressure towards the valves, and not towards the piston, where it can do the most good. Jerry Yes, was mistaken as been years ago, here is pic off eBay site showing plug over piston, and weird flame g...

Ran a Lizard head when first came out, had to use wire rope on a power drill to whip around in the water jackets, lots of sand and crud came out. The spark plugs are located over the valves, messed with advance lever but still lots of pings from poor combustion. Soon sold it at a swap meet for less...

Merry Christmas to one and all!!

speedytinc wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 18, 2025 11:36 am

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 18, 2025 11:30 am
Note: I am not the OP of this thread.
A casualty of editing.

Apparently, it's due to the OP having been banned, that his posts have also been deleted. That leaves Pat "holding the bag". Really, the whole thread should be deleted...

Bryant wrote: ↑
Sun Jul 27, 2025 8:38 am
The Bath School disaster
May 18, 1927
Absolute tragedy!
Appears to be the remnants of a Model T pickup 9F245EA2-B0A0-4DC4-8476-953D523C97B6.jpeg

I believe that T was THE Model T pick-up that held the bomb

Number 14 is a wonderful period image. Based on the landscaping, it would appear this gas station is brand new. It is nice to see it in all its glory. If one could go back in time, it would be wonderful to see it lit up at night. So where are the pumps? ...and that's why they went out of business. ...

Which is the better car to own?

Any one that appeals to your likes. The answer is different for each of us. There is no right answer.

love2T's wrote: ↑
Sun Dec 14, 2025 12:24 pm
Maybe this would work?
I got one on my '13 and its great.

This ^^^, 100%

Herb Iffrig wrote: ↑
Sun Dec 14, 2025 10:21 am
So then would the 1903 Ford photo be a fake with the bulb horn floating above the steering wheel?

I can barely make out the bracket, attaching the horn to the steering wheel rim.

Interesting thoughts on #2. Looking at the running board apron, there is a "bright" section at its midway point which ends abruptly in a sharp, vertical line just below the leading edge of the door. That's kind of odd. Also, in the rear wheel area that Wayne mentions, it seems very odd that you can ...

Picture #1: The driver, still oddly unable to get a date.

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 11, 2025 7:04 pm
NO bots here. No AI, no "mobile device", no self-driving anything. No laptop, either.

Hmmm, just the type of things a BOT might say.

(Just teasing you Pat

)

So sorry to see this. May she rest in peace.

Scott_Conger wrote: ↑
Wed Dec 10, 2025 9:53 pm
Spot the Bot on this thread...

PAT!

Art M wrote: ↑
Wed Dec 10, 2025 6:48 pm
For lubricating tubeless tire beads, I use out of date brake fluid. So far I have had no problem using it on clincher tires.

Art Mirtes

I've used dish soap.

...most of the time it is just swapped for a later engine. And the original is preserved on a stand in the corner of the garage. Adding a starter is no different, as long as no early parts are cut-up or modified in doing so, and the original, early pieces are shelved and preserved as perhaps the wh...

One of our chapter members used to be furious when a member drove a non-T or a modern car on a tour. In later years, he could no longer drive his T, and he too would drive modern. He was somewhat less furious after that time. Now suppose you have a 1909 that you've owned and driven for many years bu...

I've had that happen multiple times and all have been Forum Members If they won't take the time to contact me directly, I will not take the time to contact them - and that is because I've found that nearly 100% of the time when I DID go to the effort to contact them they never displayed the courtes...

BobD wrote: ↑
Tue Dec 09, 2025 9:42 am

Robert Kiefaber wrote: ↑
Tue Dec 09, 2025 12:03 am
AI bots and scammers.
X2

That's beginning to make more & more sense to me.

Oldrusty26 wrote: ↑
Mon Dec 08, 2025 12:21 pm
... but would like to leave it on because my dad had rebuilt it , if that makes any sense ,

That makes complete sense, my friend. I leave mine on as well...

Just an observation I've made lately with regards to items in the Classified section, be it for cars or parts. It seems often times "these days" when an individual is interested in buying a certain item, they will reply to the ad by asking to be contacted by the seller. WHAT?? If you want to buy an ...

If the pump is in good shape and doing its job, it probably wouldn't hurt to leave it on. I have found that they're a good "ice breaker" and a great way to start conversations with new people.

Some may suggest adding a thermostat, which I personally would never do. But, that's just me...

It all hinges on just what a "graunch" is.

I put oil in the cylinders of a Ford V8 that had sat for years. I came back a week later with a battery and put it in the car and hit the starter, plugs out. The motor turned and oil shot over 30 feet and splattered over a tin shed. The underhood area got a very good oiling, too. Do you think you u...

Merry Christmas Kim!

Allan, As I know you're aware, when we set timing, we adjust to fire at approximately 15 degrees past TDC, with the spark lever at full retard. After doing that, why would it matter how fast you crank it? When timing is being adjusted, it's certainly done at a VERY slow speed, (stopped, in fact), so...

Have you asked Les?

memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=941

Gleaner wrote: ↑
Fri Dec 05, 2025 10:48 pm
I will depend on Jerry to post the hearse picture. Or you can look below on page two for the post on “two lever model t on auction”

As requested...

Fantastic! Congratulations!!

So, the hearse body shown in the old photo still exists?

I appreciate the comments here! It is always humbling to realize how little I know. I never took in consideration the wear on the throwout bearing when coasting in neutral. Many times I will coast toward a stop for much longer than needed thinking it was like a modern neutral. I am now reconsiderin...

Did you closely examine the timer? Just wondering if the locating pin for the rotor hasn't fallen out, allowing the rotor to drift. Your timer rod fix may be a temporary one, if so.

Tparts wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 04, 2025 2:56 pm
Very Nice Original solid brass Tailight Bracket for 1909-14 style Spade mount Tailight. Mounts to the side of the body $65.00 plus shipping
Lang’s 1-800-872-7871.

That's a sidelamp bracket for a Mora Automobile.

: Screenshot 2025-12-04 163143.png (626.1 KiB) Viewed 275 times

Dan's ad copy states...

: timer.png (41.95 KiB) Viewed 1249 times

I think the statement "needs no oil" might suggest fiber roller wheels, since steel rollers would definitely need oiling. But then, it also states no rolling, which of course is not true, except that there is no rolling contacts perhaps.

Rayboy wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 04, 2025 11:20 am

... the new magnets are brittle and can break. Ray

Aren't you concerned that they'll do exactly that, and trash your engine/trans, as well as allow your original magnets to come loose?

For sale for a whole 22 hours before tossing in the fire...

Another forum I look at has the ability to comment turned off in the classified section. You can only message the seller through PMs.

... if the bolt is centered and square to the hole... but won't go in, would vibration of driving finish it getting it in place, or do I really have to take it apart again? I guess it depends how close it is to fitting in place. However, if your clamps are tight, and the bolt head has not yet enter...

Just a thought, can he tell you what dimensions he needs, and then you measure your car to fill in the blanks for him?

Jerry, They list their items with no business information on the lower section of the page. Personal items are permitted under the rules and by laws. Services offered are in a separate group. Just Sayin' Henry, Not trying to start an argument, just wondering where such a rule is stated. All I can f...

Henry K. Lee wrote: ↑
Tue Dec 02, 2025 6:10 pm
I think you are in violation of the rules...., Businesses can not advertise.

Just Sayin'

Better tell Lang's, Bob's, Mike Kossor, Brent Mize, Ron Patterson, and all the others as well. Just sayin'

1.5V @ 60 rpm isn't enough to start with the hand crank. 1500 rpm calculates to 37.5V. You really seeing that? ...the volts per revolution per minute is very constant at about .025 volts/rpm which would equate to 1.5 volts at 60 rpm. He is speaking in terms of volts per revolution, not total output...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/397182355284?_skw=vintage+ac+voltmeter&itmmeta=01KBG5CJEG6MSGQAHFSE7ADA1B&hash=item5c79e9c754:g:a5AAAeSwq~1o-EHy&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1clIGU%2BZ5wIojv2JMU6rZxSKjo%2BVPF%2FZE02F0b2XVJMgojyAXX99PqwTpGy71dSrMKGkJr06eYstj6ApZKXxj%2Buf1%2BR1n0ZEXsV2wyJcyFI8ws...

A neat way to chronical all the places your T has been!!

Getting the taper exactly right will be the toughest part, but yes, re-machining the tapered end is the best way, as you state.

"CudaMan's" set-up is "spot-on". It can sometimes be slightly ticklish to find the sweet spot, where the spring is neither pushing nor pulling on the shackles to where you can slip the shackles in/out.

Brian D wrote: ↑
Sun Nov 30, 2025 9:17 am
I know it's a long shot ! Anyone have a Strobo Spark they are not using and would be willing to part with?
Thank you,
Brian Dowell 586 864 5110

Brian,

I believe the Casual T's still owns one that can be loaned out to members, if that helps any.

Probably 50 years ago, my dad and I took off on a short trip in our '25 Touring. We came to a stop sign, dad stopped the car with no issues, he then pushed in the clutch and... nothing. The car wouldn't move. He got a ride back home, picked up his clamp-on tow bar, (complete with steering attachment...

AndyClary wrote: ↑
Sat Nov 29, 2025 10:05 am
If you have an aluminum pulley you can use the split for a timing mark.

Andy

True! And very handy. Just be sure when you install the pulley to align the split with #1 TDC and not BDC, (bottom-dead-center).

The ammeter pegged when I did a jumper around the cutout to flash the field coils. The generator terminal measured 26 DC Volts with my trusty Simpson 260 and the engine running at a fast idle. Did the ammeter peg towards the "charge" or the "discharge" side? After you jumpered it, did the generator...

Al,

Hopefully, the auctioneer will give us more than a 2 week notice for the next auctions.

: 1912delivery_edited.jpg (30.46 KiB) Viewed 670 times

As Pat pointed out, the throwout bearing is not intended to hold the transmission in neutral for extended periods while the car is moving. It's not a problem when holding in neutral while the car is stopped and idling, but when the car is being towed/moving, the throwout bearing is seeing constant m...

Interesting B, with a surrey top!

Eric Edwards wrote: ↑
Wed Nov 26, 2025 2:09 pm
Most likely a T but it’s all about how much they are planed. That’s the only difference. A T can become an s or R with head surfaced to a high t compression.

My understanding has been that the R head has a larger intake port.

I believe it's a C. I guess the running boards are the confusing issue?

https://fordimages.com/products/0400-8687-jpg

And another...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gwoodward ... 073121031/

Thank you, Greg. Sometimes we tend to think more about what we perceive as being "wrong" in this world and forget the great many things that we have to be thankful for. Let every day be a "Thanksgiving" for us.

FWIW anyway, I know that in the past Dan Mari has made some buggy rails.

Pressing inthe kingpin bushings will cause them to collapse slightly and be tight. They usually need to reamed after installation to restore the hole size. Not just any reamer. The suppliers sell the special reamer or perhaps one can be borrowed. The stiffness may also be due to the spindle arm now ...

I don't believe the radiator would be a good template for you. Do you have the hood? If so, I would use that as your template instead.

What does Rootlieb say about it?

I am always a bit baffled when someone has an issue with a part supplied by a vendor, and they will ask everyone but the vendor about a solution to their problem.

This is an old thread but I wanted to leave a comment. Rich Eagle who posted earlier in the thread was a friend of mine and passed away in 2024 and I now own the ‘09 touring. Regardless of how much of the car is original and how many different cars the parts came from I wouldn’t be happier if it wa...

It basically looks like a long rivet, or a typical hinge pin.

Those bands are good wall hangers and conversation pieces. Use the real thing.

Jerry, I've tried resizing the picture that I took with my cell phone, so many times that I'm now cross eyed. I give up. Sorry, can't post picture. Terry, No problem. Is there enough room in there to drill a very small hole and install a tiny roll pin or dowel? Obviously, nothing large enough to we...

I met Sam in 1968 when he opened Motor City Antique Auto Supply in St. Clair Shores, Michigan. Having a Model A 31 DeLuxe Roadster he quickly introduced me to Hershey. We went there in 1968 and 1969. Then in late 1969 Uncle Sam had the first draft lottery an I was immediately inducted into the Army...

I don't believe there was any question as to whether or not alternators can be dependable. The question seems to be whether or not the possible 40A - 80A output concerns anyone. I suppose a battery with an internal short, or a short anywhere else the charging circuit, could trigger the max alternato...

Jerry, I'm not sure what good posting a picture of the handle will do, but here you go. The square shaft was originally crimped in the area where the vise grips are attached holding the spring and retainer in proper place. One small bead of weld on two opposite sides of the shaft would also hold th...

I have an improved car outside door handle with a broken, rusted spring behind the escutcheon plate. Taking it apart to replace the broken spring was easy, I just had to grind/file the crimped shoulders behind the spring retainer to remove the retainers and the broken spring from the square shaft. ...

Suspend them from a tag wire and hold over a candle flame. It burns away the parafin(?) that binds them together. Heat gun might work too...

They look like this...

From Howell's Sheet Metal

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