MTFCA Forum

49willard

I had a Joe Morris crankshaft in my 1907 2 cylinder Buick. It failed after a number of miles when one journal rotated relative to the crankshaft throw.

49willard

Herb- I believe that is the effect of 100+ year old spun brass that has been exposed to the elements. The upper chamber is the water reservoir. The lower chamber would have had the acetylene gas. : ^ ) Keith I would go with Keith's response. Too little cold working in spun brass dents easily. Too m...

49willard

Dan,
I like your approach.

49willard

I do not know what others do or have done to install the the original hold downs for the hood. I should have done it while the engine was out but I am new to the T community. Below is a tool I made that holds the spring in compression such that the installation can be accomplished readily with just ...

49willard

Keith,
Looking good! I do not envy your son making the flanges out of stainless steel unless he has access to plazma or better still abrasive water jet.

49willard

Between the type with the enclosed U shaped groove into which a felt seal was stuffed, there was a second one with an open land for the cam seal but still with the narrow crankshaft seal groove. Once the open land was introduced, it made it much easier to fit the cam felt seal, and this was held in...

49willard

Not sure that I want to machine my timing cover for the modern lip seal. When I took it apart there was no brass shield or evidence of one having been there. I guess that I do not understand a need in my case for a brass shield since any felt or whatever was original is fully contain in a 360 degree...

49willard

Keith, Thanks for responding For the crankshaft I managed to successfully open up the U channel in the early timing cover and now have the wider rope seal (Model A seal?) in both the early cover and the later 4 dip pan. Looking for suggestions on the camshaft seal in the early timing cover. On anoth...

49willard

This is an older thread but I am dealing with sealing the camshaft (as well as the crankshaft) in my 1912 touring having gone thru the engine with a lot of new and rebuilt parts. Based on the pictures in this thread it appears that the early timing cover varies in both the width of the cavity for th...

49willard

Thanks all for your replies. I am into Mike Benders videos. My bible is the latest soft cover black version.

49willard

I am new to the Model T community but not to early cars. I am in the process of reassembling my 1912 engine and looking for tips on reassembly for such info as torques, avoiding oil leaks etc. I can't find such info in the club restoration videos or the club utube channel. Am I missing something? I ...

49willard

I have known Mel for years. I know that he did bows but not sockets. I will contact Mel.

I just called Mel, He has what I need!

Thanks for the education.

49willard

I just measured for comparison the front socket (#1 bow). The right side front socket is the same as the left rear #4 socket except for the male/female stacking hardware, so I could work with a front right side #1 socket. It would require more fabrication to change the stacking hardware.

49willard

This is the top iron/socket that I need In the picture this iron/socket would lay in the folded position with this side up. Hard to see the female stacking socket is up. The distance from the top of the iron/socket to the pivot point is 30 inches. I have ground flush and driven out the peened over t...

49willard

WTB For my 12 Touring I desperately need the left rearmost top iron (the iron that angles back) for a straight top iron pre 1917. Mine appears to be beyond repair!
Mine broke about 3 inches from the pivot point.

49willard

My thanks to all that responded. Keith Townsend established contact and with his Late 1911 touring has provided great photos and responses to my questions. I am off and running now with my trimmer making the new top. I am new to T's and this forum, what a great forum with helpful folks!

49willard

Keith,
Thanks for responding. I will look for your measurement/answers. Timing is appropriate. I am working with my upholstory/top guy to cover the new bows today.

49willard

Stu,
Thanks for replying. Can you provide responses to my #2 and #3 questions in my original post?

Thanks,
Bill

49willard

Bump, Who has a 12 Touring?

49willard

Allen,
I have thought about making such a contact however it is asking a lot when I did not order a kit from them. Which is why I ask on the forum.

49willard

I am in the process of having a new top built and installed. I have tuned up the top irons and fitted new bows. I have a friend that has done 2 tops for my brass Buicks but he has never sewn up a T top. I would like to be reasonably accurate on stitching details for the new Touring top. I decided ag...

49willard

Thank you all for your posts and pictures. I have purchased an original T battery carrier that I will tune up and mount in the chassis. From pictures posted it looks like setting the muffler in place and positioning the carrier behind the rear running board support but forward of the muffler puts it...

49willard

Well it is the last day in January. I have the chassis in final paint to be assembled and restored the top irons and fit up new bows. It has been a busy month!

49willard

I need to locate an early 20's battery carrier in the frame of my 1912 Touring. I would like to locate it (drill holes) in the frame rail at essentially the same location as done by Ford in the 20's. Can someone measure from the rear edge of the rear crossmember to the rearmost hole that mounts the ...

49willard

Steve, I am going thru the same issue/process with my 12 touring. I decided that I am setting up the bows such that #2 and #3 result with the top parallel to the shop floor, i.e. level and the sockets vertical. Those 2 bows then stack together when folded down. I then used my original back bow lengt...

49willard

I am currently painting the chassis on my 1912 Foredoor. The chassis fasteners have cotter pinned nuts. I assume that this was done due to the poor and lumpy roads of the time. Did Ford stay with this practice all the way through Model T production? Having restored an A many years ago I do not remem...

49willard

Is there information available that indicated if the original chassis, (frame, front and rear ends) in 1912 were gloss black or less glossy?
I have heard that the T frames were dipped. Was that the case from the first T's?

49willard

Thanks for the replies. I think that I have found one locally. I will come back if it does not work out

49willard

Does anyone have either a new or old battery carrier that mounts in the car frame on the drivers side behind the rear running board support, T part # 5150? I just cut out a farm fix attempt at a carrier. Apparently they are no longer made.
THANKS,
Bill

49willard

Thank you both for your replies. That is exactly what I needed!

49willard

I should have titled this thread differently. Rather than calling the rear window on a 12 touring a tombstone the window is 8 sided I believe in the 12.
Can someone provide measurements?

49willard

Just one comment, Stiffer springs is not necessarily a good idea. Put a light car in the trailer with >10,000 total spring rate will bounce the car badly. Add the trailer weight + the heaviest car that you plan to transport and size the spring rate with that info. I had a friend with an enclosed 20"...

49willard

Keith,
Many thanks for the post with excellent photos and dimensions. Not sure that I understand the "wedge". My #4 bow is very bad with several repairs. Does the wedge increase the thickness and arch the #4 bow?

49willard

In the older post (2013) the following was posted: y Ward Sherwood on Sunday, January 27, 2013 - 01:28 pm: "Ward, When your top is folded, do the tops of bows #2 & #3 line up? When #2 is in the folded position its pivot point is the same as #3 pivot point. If the bows are the same length they will l...

49willard

It turns out that I have very good agreement with the drawing below. I do believe that my bows are original. The problem is that the rear bow, #4, has been broken and crudely repaired with a splint and the front bow, #1, has a significant bow inward where it should be straight. I purchased 4 new bow...

49willard

Les and Dan
Thanks for posting the drawings and links!

49willard

Les,
Thanks for posting the drawings!

49willard

Well I got the drawing into my personal files from the 2011 post above in my computer but how do I enter them into the post. On other forums that I participate in the button with the mountain scene allow accessing MY files if I click on it this is what I get the [img] but no direction to go to my fi...

49willard

I am rebuilding my 12 touring top with original irons and new bows from Langs. I do not trust that my bows were original so I do not trust using my original bows as pattern to in sure that a new top that I plan to purchase from Classtique will fit properly. I located this old thread from the forum i...

49willard

Ed,
Is your speedo reasonably steady at speeds in the 10-25 mph range? Mine is typically +/- 5 to10 mph in those ranges, a bit like a windshield wiper. In all fairness I am new to a Stewart speedo. My other brass era cars are Jones speedo's.

49willard

There use to be available a kit (Lang's had it) to replace the chain drive in the speedometer drive cable housing for an early Stewart speedometer that used a "modern" sheathed cable inside the original the original housing with ends for the drive and driven ends. I think it is NLA. I believe that i...

49willard

Does someone offer a top kit (I have irons and Bows) for the later style 1912 Foredoor (touring)?

49willard

There is one condition related to in-car magnetizing that I have never seen mentioned on this forum. If you use a prybar or shims behind the crank pulley to push the crankshaft forward, you remove whatever crank thrust that may be present. That minimizes the magnet-to-coil ring gap for a stronger c...

49willard

Gene,
Thanks for responding I used exactly that procedure as previously posted by Tom.

49willard

Well, in accordance with the recommended directions provided in the referenced post I attempted an in car magneto refresh with unsuccessful results. I am confident that I did it in accordance with the referenced procedure using 3 12v batteries connected in series. I used stout battery cables and the...

49willard

Using a dial micrometer on the front edge of the pulley I measure .005 movement in thrust. The Model T black book indicates that it should be .002 to .004. It doesn't seem to me at just .001 over spec would make the mag voltage difference that I am experiencing. Unless someone has a simple fix idea ...

49willard

William you might want to see what the potential gap might be. This technique is not definitive but it will give you an idea of what it could be. Take a small crow bar & place it between the crank pulley & block, leverage the crank forward gently, if you have a significant movement forward it could...

49willard

I have a magneto meter the same as Dan above posted with a picture. The Magneto Meter and my Fluke agree on the voltages at both idle , 6 1/2v and at higher RPM, 10 v. The voltage does not exceed 10v.

49willard

More information to add. I cleaned up the magneto contact and now I have a reading on the magneto meter. That is the good news. However I read about 6 1/2 volts at idle but just 10 volts at RPM verified with my fluke meter. What should I see on the mag at RPM? Needless to say that will not charge th...

49willard

"For one thing voltmeters show DC and your mag puts out AC so it won't show." That depends on the type of voltmeter you have. If it's the 'Magneto Meter' by Funprojects that was sold by Lang's and other vendors, it will indeed measure and display the AC voltage output from the Ford Magneto. Lang's ...

49willard

My new to me T has been modified I am told such that the mag is set up to charge the battery. It also has been modified with the later hogshead/starter. To my knowledge it is not supposed to run on mag directly. It has the later T voltmeter. Currently the voltmeter is not indicating that the mag is ...

49willard

Thanks to all for your posts and pictures. I now have a path to a fix

49willard

You really can't see in my picture however the short arm of the pedal is already bent some. I think that I will try some heat and bend it a little more toward the middle of the car. This all started when I found out why the car "used" oil (per notes of the previous owner). It was leaking oil thru a ...

49willard

Does anyone have a detailed photo of how that should look for a T with a starter showing the relative alignment of the linkages? I do have a replacement bendix cover coming but really do not want to dent in the side of the cover to create space for the linkages. Here is the comparison photo for you...

49willard

The engine is a 1912 engine and the original C pedal has been retained. Thanks for your input. This is a picture of the trans. What does this tell us? 100_4540.JPG Although originality is important to me I am a driver and not a show car guy. I am brand new to the Model T community but have been bras...

49willard

Thanks, that does help. It appears that the same amount of exposed shaft exists in your picture but you do not have a starter and therefore just a plate not the bendix cover. From the picture kit appears that if you had the starter and the bendix cover you could have the same issue as I am strugglin...

49willard

Does anyone have a detailed photo of how that should look for a T with a starter showing the relative alignment of the linkages?
I do have a replacement bendix cover coming but really do not want to dent in the side of the cover to create space for the linkages.

49willard

The subject photo

Got it thanks for the help!

49willard

George see my edited note to my initial post.

49willard

New owner of a 1912 Model T with later hogshead and starter. See the photo below noting the exposed portion of the clutch shaft coming out of the hogshead as indicated by the gray pen in the photo. Aout 1/2 " of shafting is exposed. The problem is that the linkage coming off the clutch pedal is int...

49willard

email sent

49willard

Thanks for posting, they are out of stock as are other suppliers

49willard

Thanks for responding. Unfortunately no I am looking for the upper elbow.

49willard

Looking for an original water outlet elbow.

49willard

This is an older thread. Did someone on the forum purchase the second tool in Mark's post? I asked Mark and he had sold it.

49willard

Colin, Thanks for your response and offer of patterns. I would like to take you up on your offer of the patterns. I suspect that I will most likely run with the doors removed but for a fall tour doors and further enclosing the cockpit sounds like a fine idea. I will try to figure out how to send my ...

49willard

Colin Mavins wrote: ↑
Fri Mar 15, 2024 4:17 pm
In two of the pictures the bulb comes up in the centre of the door

Colin, thanks for the original pix, that is helpfull!
I do now see the bulbs however it would seem that door removal is not an option.

49willard

Just to through a monkey wench into the mix here are some US 1912s with the single twist black and brass tube inside the bodys-l1600 (38).jpg1B092E49-781B-4E7D-96B4-708D39AF8543.jpegIMG_7984.jpeg I agree that the horns appear to go thru the firewall in the photos but I do not see a squeeze bulb. Is...

49willard

Joe, Is your 12 a Fore-door? If so where was the bulb for the horn located? Mine came to me with a single twist, hole thru the firewall with the bulb up on the top of the "door". This meant that the left side "door" panel and A pillar could not removed with the horn connected. I purchased a double t...

49willard

Colin, Michael, Russ and Bubba thank you for your responses! Colin, the picture of your car just looks right to me. I agree that the other era pictures look too long. I suspect that without the clip the tubing could lay over the door opening. Michael, thanks for the 39" measurement. That agrees with...

49willard

I am installing the correct double twist Rubes horn on my new to me foredoor. Can anyone tell me the correct length of the brass conduit not including the horn itself or the squeeze bulb. What I have currently measures 51 inches but to my eye it looks like it droops a little low below the door openi...

49willard

Nice original Rubes Horn. Minor dents $250 +shipping

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