1923 Car, Coil Box Rebuild

[KurtM]

1923 Runabout, pretty much all stock, have the kit for rebuilding the coil box with plastic parts replacing the wood, got new contacts, ceramics, etc., as well. I'm wanting to know if y'all can point me to any documents, videos, or other online content that might be helpful to the little project, thanks! It looks straightforward enough, but I'm always open to hints & tricks, or even just a preview of what's coming.

PS: I'm new to looking up Model T stuff on the internet

Kurt Maurer
Seguin, Texas

[Moxie26]

In taking your coil box apart, the only things that would be saved would be the metal box with three sides, the internal contacts along with the bolts and nuts for attaching and installing. Use a bronze wire wheel or brush to clean the contacts , nuts and posts . ....and where the contacts mount onto the posts, it wouldn't hurt to solder to ensure electrical continuity...... Follow instructions usually included with these kits....... The original box contacts are of better electrical quality than what is available today.... New porcelain always looks nice

[rickd]

Ron Patterson posted an excellent article on the Ignition Coil Box Wood Replacement Kit on January 21, 2010 on this forum. Google MTFCA and the title to the article, should get you there. Welcome to the Model T hobby, you're gonna have fun!

[DanTreace]

Instructions from Fun Projects can be found on this older post.

You can download the pdf files. You will want Install Instructions Models 5000/5001RK. posted April 14 12:50 pm

viewtopic.php?t=35914#p277820

[KurtM]

Thanks so much, that's just what I need.

I've been trying to retrieve contact info for Ron P, but can't find it for the life of me. Can one of y'all supply a phone no. or email addy? Thanks!

[jab35]

Kurt: Contact info for a number of Model T service and parts suppliers is given on the MTFCA Home page under 'Resources'

This is Ron Patterson's contact info from that link:

Ron Patterson
1118 Jennings Avenue
Petoskey, MI 49770

Phone: 231-348-5085

Model T Ford Ignition Coils rebuilt and tested.

[TRDxB2]

1923 Runabout, pretty much all stock, have the kit for rebuilding the coil box with plastic parts replacing the wood, got new contacts, ceramics, etc., as well. I'm wanting to know if y'all can point me to any documents, videos, or other online content that might be helpful to the little project, thanks! It looks straightforward enough, but I'm always open to hints & tricks, or even just a preview of what's coming.

PS: I'm new to looking up Model T stuff on the internet

Kurt Maurer
Seguin, Texas

Here are the installation instructions. Skip the part about front mounted switch that was on earlier boxes.
The old contacts (original phosphor bronze) are preferred over the new ones (copper). Note in the diagram there are lefts & rights.
The wiring diagram is a bottom view, showing the wires in the grooves. You could place same water proof tape (like Gorilla) over the wire(s) slots as was done on the original.
If you still have questions send me an email via the form by clicking on my username
e
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T-5001-RK Coil Box Rebuild Kit.pdf

(320.16 KiB) Downloaded 25 times

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This the link to the YouTube Video that dinosBunny mentions below https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8jRwqF3MAY
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This link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ejHesSttcs references the plastic board & has some good hints BUT the first 27 minutes of the video talks about the evolution of the box so you can skip to minute 27 by dragging the red line
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[dinosbunny]

You tube has a real good video for coil box and other model t restoration projects

[KurtM]

This the link to the YouTube Video that dinosBunny mentions below ... the first 27 minutes of the video talks about the evolution of the box so
you can skip to minute 27 by dragging the red line
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I think you might have linked to the wrong video. I've seen this one, and it doesn't cover replacement of the wood bits; also, it's only 24:26 long, so there's no skipping ahead to 27:00...

Thanks all, really appreciate the input!

[jab35]

Kurt: It's a straightforward fix and you have received good info. I found it necessary to carefully fit each terminal bolt in the polymer before drawing them tight with the porcelain insulators in place. The plastic is much harder than the original wood. And I recall setting the Stainless-Steel pop rivets really tested the integrity of my rivet tool. There were some corners on the plastic that I had to round over to fit the metal box, obvious stuff like that, but the kit fit really well overall. Best, jb

[TRDxB2]

This the link to the YouTube Video that dinosBunny mentions below ... the first 27 minutes of the video talks about the evolution of the box so
you can skip to minute 27 by dragging the red line
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I think you might have linked to the wrong video. I've seen this one, and it doesn't cover replacement of the wood bits; also, it's only 24:26 long, so there's no skipping ahead to 27:00...

Thanks all, really appreciate the input!

Sorry I should have added the link in the text not just the picture (correct above) This is the long video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ejHesSttcs

[KurtM]

All done and ready to go, all connections properly soldered. Nuthin' to it, thanks everbody!

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Are you still intending to install the brace, p/n 5002STP in the schematic shown above? It's a small but important piece.

[TRDxB2]

I'll second that. The brace prevents the coils from bulging out the front of the box This results in the coils making poor contact. Some people start putting shims in as a solution causing a distorted box and more buldge

[KurtM]

Actually, I thought about omitting it since it doesn't make getting the coils in and out any easier, and it seems to me like a properly fitting lid should eliminate any possibility of bulging. On the other hand, the coils shouldn't need to be swapped around much, if at all, and the phenolic parts should make it easier as well. In the end, I'll likely reinstall it since it's a very proper Model T move to make, and there are few things I admire more than a very proper Model T.

As an aside, the ill-fitting lid that refused to sit right or latch correctly on both ends simultaneously no matter what I tried is the primary reason for the rebuild in the first place, and now it goes on and off so absolutely perfectly it's scary. I wonder if it'll continue fitting as well once installed in the car? I think so, but we'll certainly find out for sure a little later today.

In the meantime my question stands: What does the little strut do that the lid, assuming a correct fit, does not?

[jab35]

Based on personal experience that strut is important and should be installed. Installed correctly, it maintains box shape and coil contact. Don't make it too tight (or too loose).