Hot Shot Batteries

[Original Smith]

I have two 1913 T's that require a battery for cranking. I have found a Lithium battery that is about the size of a Model T coil to work very well. The best part is they are 12 volt, and fit nicely along side my spare coils under the seat.

[TRDxB2]

I have two 1913 T's that require a battery for cranking. I have found a Lithium battery that is about the size of a Model T coil to work very well. The best part is they are 12 volt, and fit nicely along side my spare coils under the seat.

The worst "part" will be the starters if they are 6 volt. Read on viewtopic.php?t=20883

[Dan McEachern]

Pretty sure that Larry's "cranking" is provided by his arm and not an electric starter motor. His arm must be the 12 volt version.......

[TRDxB2]

An ambiguous statement predicated on the fact that forum members are expected to know the ownership's Model T configurations and preferences.

[speedytinc]

By definition in the title "hot shot" batteries are used for hand cranking a non starter T.
They were originally dry cell batteries & not capable of running a starter motor.

[KWTownsend]

Larry uses an Armstrong starter.
He is a cranky type of guy.

[TXGOAT2]

Out here, out on the perimeter, it's still 1913.

[NoelChico]

Thanks for the information, Larry. I am rebuilding a 1915 without a atarter, at present. I will look up a 12V Li battery as you say. Noel

[modeltspaz]

You guys are brutal. Brutal, but absolutely hilarious!

[KWTownsend]

Mike,
I can say things like this about Larry because he is a good friend.

I first learned about him when I was 13 years. My family was on vacation and going through Reno. I wanted to see Harrah's collection and we did. I bought McCalley's book, From Here to Obscurity. It was $14.95 and I paid for it with my own money. I read about cars owned by Larry Smith, Kim Dobbins, and Chad Champlin and others... Decades later, I served as a Director for the MTFCA for one term, met Bruce McCalley and become good friends with Jay Klehfoth and many others....

To me, Larry was one of the Tribal Elders.

I don't recall when Larry and I first met, but we hit it off and have been friends ever since. We have been to each other's homes and are always looking out for each other.

Love you, Larry!

Even if you are cranky sometimes.

: ^ )

[Loftfield]

I avoided lithium batteries, not entirely certain I wish to take a chance on the things spontaneously combusting to burn up a non-replaceable Model T. Check out MGuy on YouTube to see just how bad lithium batteries can be.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

I avoided lithium batteries, not entirely certain I wish to take a chance on the things spontaneously combusting to burn up a non-replaceable Model T. Check out MGuy on YouTube to see just how bad lithium batteries can be.

Do Ni-Cad batteries fall under that same category?

One of the easiest ways to handle this is to mount an adapter for the brand/type of power tool battery that you use in your shop. Generally speaking, you already have the battery and the charger. Below is a link of what I am describing, and we use DeWalt batteries all over the shop, so we have a few homebuilt tools that we have wired 12v items (-such as a 12v ATV winch, a remote steering controller, etc.) and then powered them with the DeWalt battery.

In the case of a battery for powering ignition coils, using a power tool battery would allow the adapter to be secretly hidden inside the body, and quickly removed when needed by just sliding it out of the adapter and charged in a hotel room or restaurant with the small charger that can be carried in a suit case or running board tool box. The charge of these type batteries lasts a surprisingly long time when used in this type application. Some of these adapters have a USB port moulded in which will recharge cell phones or power GPS units when out on tour. Likely could be used on brass lamps converted to LED bulbs.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=power+tool+battery+adapter

[modeltspaz]

Keith,

I joined the Long Beach Model T Club in 1995. I didn't own a T then, but as the by laws state, "Owenership of a Model T is not required". I have since purchased a '26 Touring from the widow of a past member. My first Long Beach Model T Club Swap Meet was in 1975 at the "Dust Bowl". In my opinion it was the best antique auto swap meet ever to happen on the planet.

I've known Larry for years. While a bit opinionated and sometimes a bit irritable, always a true American Partiot, he would give you the shirt off his back if you needed it. I've been to his house many times and always offered an Original Smith cocktail (beer) on arrival.

My post above was meant purely in jest. Just as I believe you all meant it also. The post above with Larry's photo actually had me laughing out-loud. My wife thought I had really lost it this time, until I showed her your post. She knows Larry, also.

That's why I check this forum a couple of times a day. Here you can learn and laugh all for the grand total of $-0-. Quite the bargain.

I've been on this forum since the beginning, when the late Bruce McCalley was the moderator. I've learned a lot. Seen some heavy-hitters pass on, and I've seen some VERY eclectic people come and go. And I'm still here, probably at least to see what the dickens comes next. I ain't going anywhere anytime soon.

Have a great day, everyone. Oh, and don't forget to cut Original Smith a little slack now and then.

Modeltspaz.

[ModelTWoods]

Mr. Larry Smith, didn't earn the nickname, "Original Smith", for 'grins'. He earned it because his restorations are correct as close to leaving the factory as possible. If he has a 1913 T or any pre-1919 T, you can bet it doesn't have a starter. For Larry to do so, would be a travesty and an abomination !

[AndyClary]

I use a motorcycle battery, last 2-3 years and costs 26 bucks from Amazon. The 12 volts gives a good spark while hand cranking.


Andy

[CudaMan]

Regarding period originality, I wonder what type of battery or batteries a person would have used in 1913. Possibly a gang of telephone dry cells hooked up in series?

[ewdysar]

In the early ‘60s, my dad was using a square, dry cell 6v lantern battery with bare wire ends wrapped around the spring terminals. There was an old dead one still attached to the ignition when I pulled our grey ‘16 touring from 20+ years of storage in the ‘90s.

Keep crankin’,
Eric

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

I have two 1913 T's that require a battery for cranking. I have found a Lithium battery that is about the size of a Model T coil to work very well. The best part is they are 12 volt, and fit nicely along side my spare coils under the seat.

Mr. Larry Smith, didn't earn the nickname, "Original Smith", for 'grins'. He earned it because his restorations are correct as close to leaving the factory as possible. If he has a 1913 T or any pre-1919 T, you can bet it doesn't have a starter. For Larry to do so, would be a travesty and an abomination !

Now Terry, I am not one to question your comment above ...however does Larry's comment at the start of this thread (-regarding him using & recommending a Lithium Battery that is 12 volts) coincide with your comment regarding how his restorations are correct -and that they are as close to replicating how they left the Factory as possible still apply?

[Original Smith]

I don't believe T's ever came from the dealer with a battery? The switch has always had a battery side and a mag side. I wonder if the Ford dealers back then kept a supply of battery's for customers cars? I don't believe Tesla dealers would be selling those cars if the batteries exploded very often?

[Allan]

I too use a 12 volt 14 amp lead acid motor cycle battery in my 1912 van. It will give me two days of running between charges, but I put it on the charger whenever i have used it, and again before I want to use it. The last one lasted 6 years. It powers the brake and turn signal lamps as well as providing power for the True-fire ignition.

Allan from down under.

[TXGOAT2]

These so-called "correct restorations" with non-period gasoline and oil aren't fooling anyone!

[hull 433]

I talk with Larry on the phone nearly every morning, usually very early (navy time), when we're having first coffee.

Everything Keith and others have said is absolutely correct. I'll add only that 1) he will teach you everything he knows if you're willing to listen and 2) thirty-five years ago I rode with him in his '13 touring on a major freeway (!!!) That car is still going strong as it has for the past sixty years under his care.

Here's his other '13, which has offered free starts and several neighborhood drives over the past week. Now back to batteries.

[Chris Instness]

Sure looks a lot like Doc. Brown’s house behind Larry’s car. I’ve heard you don’t even need a battery if your car is equipped with a flux capacitor.

[Robert Kiefaber]

In the early ‘60s, my dad was using a square, dry cell 6v lantern battery with bare wire ends wrapped around the spring terminals. There was an old dead one still attached to the ignition when I pulled our grey ‘16 touring from 20+ years of storage in the ‘90s.

Keep crankin’,
Eric

Eric, that’s what I use also.

[TXGOAT2]

You could probably rig up a big capacitor to start a T. You'd need a high capacity capacitor with very low leakage and a source of low voltage DC to charge it.

[greenacres36]

I use a utility trailer breakaway batteries. Comes in its own little box so it’s convenient and looks good. Easy to hide.

[Ed Fuller]

In the two T’s I have that are crank start only, I use a small 12 volt, 12 ah sealed lead acid battery. They are usually around $25 on Amazon. I use them for running the could during startup and to run my turn signals. I normally only recharge them a few times a year and replace them every few years.

[Original Smith]

There is some misinformation above. I do like the details, especially original nuts and bolts. However, every T I own has ORIGINAL Rocky Mountain Brakes, and a Ruckstell. BTW, the house pictured in back of my roadster is the Gamble house in Pasadena. How many of you know the difference between original factory 1913 hubcaps, and the more common 14-16 style?

[TRDxB2]

I assume your referring to the 1913 cap had a high F meaning where the F was crossed was higher than the -ord portion, while later caps appear as continuous script. There are other differences as well