Plastic Coils?

[Hudson29]

I removed the coil box on the '14 for inspection & cleaning and found a set of 4 plastic box coils. The car seems to run fine with its E-Timer and these plastic coils. I cleaned up all the contacts and put everything back together and gave it a test run, all seems well.

Are these plastic coils good reliable units or should I be looking for wooden cased ones to replace them?

[jiminbartow]

I have had both and I believe that either plastic or wood functions equally well, however, I prefer original Ford Script wooden cased coils for authenticity and the simple reason that wood (especially dove tailed boxes) is what the Model T originally used. I did once have a Ford script coil that appeared to be Bakelite, but later learned it was a sort of early plastic made from soy beans and I believe was a product of Henry Ford’s experiments with making Model T components from soy beans. I sold it to Ron “the Coilman” Patterson for his extensive coil collection. Perhaps, if he sees this thread, he will expound further, while answering your question. Jim Patrick

[Allan]

Paul, do you possibly mean I Timer? I have an E timer in my wide body Duncan and Fraser roadster, and from memory, the points are bypassed. With the late E Timer, they are still in play.

Allan from down under.

[Steve Jelf]

I've never used any of the modern plastic coils, but I've seen complaints on the forum about them failing. I would use them if they work OK, but be amassing a set of originals just in case.

[Allan]

Proof read, proof read proof read! My post should have read, "with the later I timer" the coil points are still in play.

Allan from down under.

[Hudson29]

Thanks for the opinions. I have no problem with the idea of getting a set of wooden cased coils eventually. These plastic ones work now and will make good spares.

The timer is an E-Timer and the points have little jump wires but not the little green fuses that the E-Timer on my '23 has. I'm not sure why the difference. The picture shows the wires but they are hard to make out.

I'm not familiar with the I-Timer. Do the coils buzz normally? The ONLY thing I do not like about my E-Timers is that the wonderful coil buzz is muted. To me, the coil buzz is one of the wonderful sounds of a Model T.

[TWrenn]

Paul, if my usually poor memory is right, the difference with the I-timer....it's the "son" of the E-timer....is that you DO use, and therefore have to properly maintain the coils, and yes, therefore they buzz just like stock use.

[Hudson29]

That will be worthy of checking out. While my E-Timers both work perfectly now, I would consider an upgrade to get those coils buzzing at some point in the future.

[Hudson29]

I just did an internet search and found a few details about the I-Timer. It does use the stock coils with points. Those need to be properly adjusted and working correctly. You need to start on battery but can switch to magneto afterward. It will NOT start on magneto. Advance is not automatic, you adjust it just like a stock Model T. I will be interested in knowing more once I get a set of good coils.

[Ron Patterson]

It depends upon which preproduction black plastic coils you have.
Those coils were made for various applications and many do not work in a Model T.
They were used for ignition in WWII flame throwers, jet engine test stands, oil fired home heating plants and Champion spark plug testers to name a few. Many of these will not operate correctly on the Model T magneto at slow engine speeds.
In late 1916 Ford introduced a Ford script coil (see attached photo) with the case cast from a mixture of Wheat gluten using and Asbestos as a binder. It was soon discovered that these cases were dimensionally unstable and were soon discontinued in early 1918.
If found in good condition (intact case and NOT chewed upon by rats of mice) they can be easily restored just like a wood cased Ford coil. I have several sets of these coils in like new condition.
Ron Patterson

[25tfire]

I have used these newer black coils in several of my Model T's and have no problems. Although more difficult to rebuild than the wood box style. Jim in Colorado

[MKossor]

Paul said:

The timer is an E-Timer and the points have little jump wires but not the little green fuses that the E-Timer

The coil points should be shunted with the little green fuses when using the E-Timer NOT jumper wires. The reason is for safety. The fuse jumpers provide a level of protection If a timer wire were to break off and contact engine ground. The fuse jumper would blow allowing the coil to function as normal; and would buzz constantly alerting you something is wrong. That does not happen with jumper wires. High current could flow through the coil in the event of such a fault, causing the coil to melt and possibly catch fire. Do NOT use jumper wires to bypass the coil points!

The ONLY thing I do not like about my E-Timers is that the wonderful coil buzz is muted.

You can adjust the coil points to sound more natural (Buzz) using the E-Timer. The adjustment is strictly cosmetic for the appearance of normal coil operation and does not effect performance. The coils will need to be re-adjusted if they are to be used with a stock timer again.

[Hudson29]

Thanks Mike, I'll get a couple of sets of the fuses ordered. I busted some installing them on the '23 years ago so having a few spares will not be a bad idea. BTW, if the fuse burns out, will I see it looking burnt?

[Hudson29]

Thanks Jim, its great to hear that the coils have worked well for you. No one has reported anything bad about them which is encouraging.

[MKossor]

Paul wrote:

if the fuse burns out, will I see it looking burnt?

No, you have to check them with an Ohm Meter to see if they are blown.