Modern dip stick install

Post by **JvanMaanen** » Thu Jul 28, 2022 3:10 pm

I recently purchased a modern dipstick, Langs 3079DS that replaces the lower petcock. Installation instructions say a "slight" bend may be needed. It looks to me like it will require way more than a "slight" bend to get the tube to exit forward of the firewall under the hood. This is on a 19 roadster project. Can someone send me a picture or post one of one of these installed. Must be old age, but I just can't see how this can be routed.

Thanks Van

Post by **FreighTer Jim** » Thu Jul 28, 2022 3:39 pm

I don’t know if this is what you bought ….

@ https://youtu.be/ih6n0guHqYA

FJ

Scott_Conger · Post by **Scott_Conger** » Thu Jul 28, 2022 3:50 pm

I would consider "slight bend" as a hopeful exaggeration. In reality it requires a sweeping bend, followed by a bit of a reversal of that bend to bring it back to a vertical insertion to the compression elbow.

You MUST KEEP BOTH BENDS IN THE SAME PLANE. When you are finished, lay it on a table and make sure it will lay flat on the table or the dipstick will never insert fully. It also helps to just put a tiny nip of a bend at the very tip of the dipstick itself so that the edge of the end does not "plow" along the copper tube during each insertion, but instead presents a blunt tip. This greatly improves insertion force to an easy slide like you'd expect.

Norman Kling · Post by **Norman Kling** » Thu Jul 28, 2022 4:10 pm

I looked at the first part of your U tube and then it cut off. I couldn't figure out how to see the rest of it. I am a computer nerd

Whatever you do, be sure it does not hang down or is so low something will knock it off or you will lose all your oil. And after you get everything set as you want it, open the top petcock and pour oil in until is just starts to drip out the petcock. Then pull the dipstick and see where it shows on the dipstick and mark that location as the "full" level. That level could vary in accordance with the bends and angle of the dipstick tube. Be sure to close the petcock.
Norm

Post by **TRDxB2** » Thu Jul 28, 2022 4:17 pm

Looking at what you purchased, copied some DIY examples posted in the forum that might help. Its hard to tell how long the tube is and where the handle would be accessible

Scott_Conger · Post by **Scott_Conger** » Thu Jul 28, 2022 4:54 pm

The "gentle bend" of the tube is a 90 degree arc over a wide area followed by a reverse curve.

you can clearly see the very short reverse, to go straight into the fitting, plus the little recurve on the dipstick to avoid scrubbing down the length of the tube, and without it, it is very difficult to get the dipstick to navigate the "reverse" portion of the curve and seat the final 1 1/2".

DickC · Post by **DickC** » Thu Jul 28, 2022 4:58 pm

I have had this on two of my T's. After you finish bending and installing, don't expect the dip stick to go in easily. It takes a little persuasion but it is not too difficult to insert. I suggest that you drain the oil after installation and refill with the recommended quantity. Insert the dip stick and note the full position. Take a file and mark it for future reference.

Post by **speedytinc** » Thu Jul 28, 2022 5:04 pm

No concerns of a compression ring on copper tubing shearing from vibration? I am thinking it would be safer to convert to a flair fitting and or go to a steel tube.

Scott_Conger · Post by **Scott_Conger** » Thu Jul 28, 2022 5:32 pm

Dick

with the installation I described, my dipsticks slide in almost effortlessly. They are on 2 of my 4 T's and I've installed them on many others. Never a problem when following my own advice above.

Post by **JvanMaanen** » Thu Jul 28, 2022 5:42 pm

Scott just read your last post, so you answered my question. Can you post a pick of the bend over the engine mount and connection to the firewall. always nice to get the info from those that have been there and done that.

Thanks Van

Scott_Conger · Post by **Scott_Conger** » Thu Jul 28, 2022 5:56 pm

Van, for now I can say that it comes up at a slight angle "up" (very slight), and a slight angle "out" (again, very slight). The mounting tab generally must be drilled out a little to fit over the firewall bracket bolt. Even though it is angled "out" everything safely and easily clears the inside of the hood when closed.

The "up" bend is my decision to ensure any oily vapor wants to drain back and not out. The "out" angle is due to the fact that you MUST keep all bends in one plane and to come out of the hog's head, arc over the top, and secure with the tab that is supplied, the whole thing seems to be not parallel to the frame rail. Note: on my dad's Syverson hack, I had to make a LONGER mounting tab to clear the Syverson firewall, and that resulted in a nice parallel-to-the-frame installation. If the outward cant of the tube is objectionable, you can make a longer mounting tab like I did, loosen the compression nut, and swing the tube "inward" a little. Just know that the longer the tab, the more vibration you will experience of the tube...something I seek to avoid. On the hack, even with the longer mounting tab, it remained snug against the plywood cutout and experienced no extra vibration, since it was not entirely free-hanging. On a standard car, that choice might become problematic but would still take considerable time to manifest itself...regardless, I choose to not give it the opportunity.

again, I'll also stress the little bend at the tip of the dipstick, and also not mentioned previously, arcing the dipstick to match the curve of the tube allows for nearly effortless insertion (if the tube arc is a constant curve!) and the only resistance is a gentle one for the last 1 1/2". Without the recurve, it will dig in badly, show copper shaving on the tip, and risk getting a false "low" reading on it. It must seat relatively easily and consistently.

I'll try to get a photo tomorrow.

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