Used the threaded rod with washers to force the bottom bushing into the spindle, the impact driver was set to low, and I took breaks so nothing got too hot...
I then used the reamer, alignment tool and cutting oil to gently ream the bottom bushing. The alignment tool was placed in the top of the spindle.
The reamer slid through the alignment tool, into the spindle body and into the bottom bushing. (
photo) The reaming required very light pressure and even, clockwise turning. The top bushing was then forced into the spindle with the threaded rod using the same technique as before.
I reamed the top bushing, using the bottom bushing as a guide.
Next I broke out the cutter and put it on my 1978 drill press. I took two measurements, one of the gap between the spindle arms on the axle and the other was the spindle with the new bushings installed. Don't use these measurements to shave the bushings to size, just use them to know when your bushings are getting close to the right size. Instead, I shaved a little, and tested the fit multiple times. I alternated shaving the top and bottom bushings. From what I have read, you should aim for a snug fit between the spindle and the axle.
After a few iterations of shave and test fit, I got it just the right size. I tightened everything down and the spindle moves freely without any play in unwanted directions.
I'm very happy with the results and I'm surprised how smoothly this went. With the driver's side done and the learning curve behind me, I had the passenger side done in about 30 minutes.
For more history on this project, check out
this thread.
