Spindle bolt size

[RGould1910]

What is the thickness of the new spindle bolts sold today? I have new bushings in my front axle and some of my used bolts wont pass through. My bushings are .501"

[Dan Hatch]

Spilt them lengthwise. This makes them tighten up on the kingpin like a gates taper lock pulley bushing.
I do not split them cause you need them solid when you ream and tap lower axle yoke.

I split them on bandsaw, but a hacksaw will work. If you have any other questions please feel free to ask. Thanks Dan.

[Norman Kling]

I don't know what Don is saying? First he says split them and then he says I do not split them?
All the bushings I have installed were pressed into the spindles. Then they were reamed with a special tool from back in the days. two of the members of our local club have that tool. It goes all the way through to get things centered, then reams the hole to fit and also faces the surface. When you get it to fit, you put the bolt all the way through and tighten just enough to take out the play but allow the spindle to move freely. Then draw up the lock nut at the bottom and place the pin.
Norm

[Dan Hatch]

I am talking about Stevens Front axle bushings.
Not spindle bolt, AKA kingpin bushings.
I thought he was repairing a worn front axle with Stevens Tool.
If not forget anything I posted. Dan

[Pep C Strebeck]

Original Ford Spindle Bolts were 0.502" - 0.503" in diameter, larger than some of the new bolts sold today by the vendors. I know that Langs sells both the 0.500" diameter Spindle Bolts and the "correct" larger diameter bolts, big price difference. A quote from R.V. Anderson, "Ford specified the diameter of the bolts to be 0.502/0.504" from later in 1909 until January 1920 when it was changed to 0.500/0.504". The reamer that Langs sells for the Spindle Bolt Bushings is 0.502", for the smaller diameter (modern) bolts. Not too long ago Langs listed an original Stevens Spindle Bolt Bushing Reamer in the classifieds, listed as 0.503" in diameter, viewtopic.php?f=5&t=34492

Here is a link to a previous discussion from the old Forum, http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/70 ... 1493409015

Links to new Spindle Bolts:
https://www.modeltford.com/item/2710SB.aspx
https://www.modeltford.com/item/2710SAOR.aspx

[Scott_Conger]

Richard

I suspect that your old kingpins are OLD ones from (I think) pre-14. Those kingpins were made somewhere around .502-.503 (I recall??). Randall Anderson was the only one who made CORRECT kingpins for early cars, and you had to have a special reamer for the spindle bushings to make things work. I have all that stuff in the shop but am in the house, so my values are from memory. If I go out today, I'll try to remember to measure one.

[Original Smith]

I have the spindle bolts that R.V. had made which I believe are .502. They are exactly like Ford made them. I hope Lang's is continuing to make them like that. I have them in both of my 1913's. I hope we eventually get another member as talented as R.V. was. He was an amazing person, and a good friend.

[RGould1910]

I am talking about the Stevens axle top bushing. Dan is saying that for reaming and threading the bottom fork only, he temporarily uses a solid bushing so the feed screw engages properly. For finishing the top fork, he uses a split bushing to grap the kingpin.
I am going to try things a bit differently. I plan on using sleeve retainer to lock in a solid bushing on top. So I either want a kingpin that fits the ID of the bushing or I will ream it using a spiral fluted hand reamer. From the helpful replies, I see Langs offers a .500" kingpin. Just what I hoped for. Thanks for the helpful replies.

On another matter, I have a KRW pan jig coming my way via Tullare in April. Will probably need a couple capable men to help lift it into my pickup bed. If anyone cares to come to my house In Folsom after I have a bit of time to do some repair , they can use the pan jig, while I relax and have a beer. Kidding. I don't drink anymore. But the jig is available for those who need it.

[Scott_Conger]

Richard

since the top bushing is tapered, there is Zero reason to use retaining compound. Of course it won't hurt anything but your wallet if you do use it, but there is no benefit to do so. If you leave the bushing sticking about 1/32-1/16 above the axle when you're done reaming, the final installation of the kingpin will pull the tapered bushing down and lock things up solidly...believe me, nothing is turning or moving anywhere after that.

I know that Dan splits the bushing, but believe me, installed as I mentioned above and you'd think things were welded together.

Very sorry for misinterpreting your initial question

[RGould1910]

Thanks for the help

[speedytinc]

Inconsistent spindle bolt diameters have been a constant nuisance to me.
The most recent "ground" are measuring .498 & .500 & .501.
I have one that looks original (no script) measures .493
Another that measures .501 - .503 (not round)
Original with script.501-.502 (also not round)

All but the script are new. All were measured in between the bushing areas just in case.
These are just a few I pulled from the top of the parts drawer.

There is an "economy" bolt. I recall they were .495-.496. Will fit a 1/2" ream job.

The pretty ground units, which I typically use for customers, need a follow ream with an adjustable reamer to fit.

The only thing helpful I can say is to have the bolts in hand & fit to them.

[Scott_Conger]

John

that's a very interesting and (to me) a very surprising discovery. Perhaps it is the supplier or suppliers used in those purchases as I have never received anything but perfect items..."oversize" as expected for the earlier version, and "spot on" for the later version. Lang's has never failed to deliver a quality and consistent product to me.