Repro LUG NUTS

[Professor Fate]

I stripped out repro lug nuts on my '26 wire wheels. Seems lug nuts are some kind of stainless non magnetic alloy that is soft and strips easily. Chrome plating flakes off too, resulting from a very poor plating job.
Nuts stripped out and would not tighten down. Failed at about 30 ft/lbs torque.
Good thing the stud is harder and better quality
steel.
I had to clean up stud threads to get rid of lug nut debris by chasing them, and grab an original non chromed steel lug nut from my stash to make it to cruise night on Friday.
I think the threads on the other repro lug nuts are stretching and moving, because I had to tighten all of them again with less than 35 miles travelled.
Be careful out there!
Check your lug nuts if you have the flaky chrome non magnetic ones sold by major vendors.
These lug nuts are coming off my car asap.

[Allan]

Here in Australia, there are lug nuts available from parts houses which are very similar to original T model ones. These may be a better option. I bought them for my speedster and had no problems with them or their plating.

Allan from down under.

[TXGOAT2]

Lug nuts probably need to be slightly softer than the lugs. Chrome plating failure is common on lug nuts.

A lug nut should not fail at 30 ft lbs. I wonder if there is a thread mis-match. (?)

My car has wire wheels, and I have found that it's best to check the lug nuts for tightness after driving the car a few miles whenever a wheel is removed and replaced.

Fresh painted or powder coated wire wheels and hubs will need retorquing attention until the contact surfaces of the wheels, nuts, and hubs wear in.

Lug nuts that are made of stainless steel or that have heavy chrome plating do not seem to seat as well as plain steel or cadmium plated ones.

I tighten my lug nuts in 3 stages in a "star" pattern.

[J1MGOLDEN]

I recently looked for those wire wheel lug nuts and found none of any material or plated.

The Model A catalogs had the closest to Model T lug nuts.

None were stainless steel!

[Dan Hatch]

Go to a tire shop or trailer place and look for 1PIECE 1/2” x 20 trailer lug nuts. Look a lot like T lug nuts. Be sure they are one piece. Some have a chrome cap that will come off.

[Professor Fate]

The chrome cap lugs are a bad deal. I refuse to use them on my modern cars. I've switched them all out.
Stay away from the chrome caps for sure.

Thanks for your thoughts everyone.

[ModelTWoods]

Here in Australia, there are lug nuts available from parts houses which are very similar to original T model ones. These may be a better option. I bought them for my speedster and had no problems with them or their plating.

Allan from down under.

Allen, Probably, the same nut, and maybe brand, is available here in the states. I think that I have seen them in our auto parts stores. I remember a thread about them on the forum in previous years. Problem is, their shape is off just enough that "Original Joe's" won't use them because they don't look original.

[TXGOAT2]

Could they be machined to look like originals?

[ModelTWoods]

Could they be machined to look like originals?

Pat, If you are referring to the nuts that I mentioned, I doubt that they could, but even if they could, they would require replating. Go to EBAY MOTORS and search 1/2"x20 enclosed end lug nuts and you'll see some similar to what I've seen.

[TRDxB2]

There was an issue reported on repro lug nuts that the thread depth wasn't deep enough for proper tightening
I don't have the dimensions (length) of an original lug nut but the round flat cap was barely protruding above the hex portion of the nut
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original nut

oem nut.png (118.19 KiB) Viewed 2390 times

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repro choices NOTE: some repro's have the size engraved on the nut side, top or rim so check it out
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[John kuehn]

So is it safe to assume that the repro nuts are made in China?

[DanTreace]

Original on right, repro on left.

[John kuehn]

I’m wondering if there are lug nuts for later vehicles, tractors that aren’t plated or at least made of better material. And yes I know you would want them look close or real similar to the T lug nuts. The nut for more modern vehicles don’t easily strip considering how much torque or ft lbs that used for impact guns at tire dealerships. Just wondering

[TRDxB2]

Original on right, repro on left.
IMG_6730.jpeg

Measure the depth of them to see if they are the same. The outside length isn't important. I have some original lug nuts and each incomplete set has one shorter than the other 8 - no idea why. For spare tire carrier?

[TXGOAT2]

It's very unlikely that anything new or of recent manufacture that you buy today was NOT made in China. That's true regardless of seller, or brand name, if any, or type of application.

[TRDxB2]

So is it safe to assume that the repro nuts are made in China?

No its not
Where are White Knight lug nuts made?
Our factories are ISO9002 and QS9000 certified. Located 15 miles southeast of Los Angeles, in Norwalk, CA, White Knight is conveniently located nearby major freeways and access points. Our warehouse facilities carry an ample supply of inventory to minimize back order situations.
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McGard Tough Nuts are designed to last for life. No chipping, peeling or rusting. Guaranteed to keep on shining for years. Our Tough Nuts are manufactured in the U.S.A. to meet the highest O.E.M. standards for safety and durability.
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others maybe Wheel Pro owns several lug nut brands now including Gorilla

[Professor Fate]

Both repro. Both failed to torque down.

[TRDxB2]

Both repro. Both failed to torque down.

20230813_200213.jpg (58.72 KiB) Viewed 2174 times

Both repro. Both failed to torque down.20230813_200213.jpg

Looks like the repro threads were expecting a longer stud bolt. The threads on the original look suspect. They don't look stripped just not able to do the job based on their condition

[Professor Fate]

You wrote...

".....The threads on the original look suspect."


Both lug nuts in the pic i posted are aftermarket reproduction. No original pictured. Pic shows
Inconsistent manufacturing and quality control on inferior product.

[Mark Gregush]

The Model A lug nut, the threaded area didn't start at the get-go. The opening at the bottom was little larger and clear of thread so it could clear the swedging where the lug bolt came through the drum/hub, but not as deep as shown in the first sample in photo directly above. The original Model T might have that same clear area.
What was found is some reproductions with thread the full length were fowling on the swedged area before fully seating so were not correctly holding the wheel.

[Professor Fate]

I cleaned a lot of debris from the lug nut off the threads of the stud.

[Professor Fate]

Oops mistake

[Professor Fate]

My bad lugs have been replaced. All is well now........