I bought a new hot air pipe from Lang’s for my 26 Fordor and can’t seem to make it fit. Looks like I will need to modify it to make it work. Fits “OK” with the exhaust/intake manifold clamp on #4 removed but can’t get it to fit otherwise.
The hot air pipe on my 26 TT is a somewhat different design.
Anyone else ever have this problem?
Hot Air Pipe
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CudaMan
- Posts: 2531
- Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 4:17 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Strange
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1924 Cut Off Touring (now a pickup)
- Location: Hillsboro, MO
- Board Member Since: 2013
Re: Hot Air Pipe
I have not had good results with the reproduction hot air pipes. The originals aren't that hard to find, check on Ebay or post a wanted ad on the Classifieds. Your '26 should have the one-piece pipe as shown here:
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Mark Strange
Hillsboro, MO
1924 Cut-off Touring (now a pickup)
Hillsboro, MO
1924 Cut-off Touring (now a pickup)
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Original Smith
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- First Name: Larry
- Last Name: Smith
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 13 Touring, 13 Roadster, 17 Coupelet, 25 Roadster P/U
- Location: Lomita, California
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
Re: Hot Air Pipe
The late '25s use the swivel adjustment too, but don't require the relief in the hot air pipe, but I have one on my car anyway. I agree, stay away from the repro hot air pipes, there are too many originals around.
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TRDxB2
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- Board Member Since: 2018
Re: Hot Air Pipe
Lengthy discussion about Hot Air Pipe fitments https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php? ... pe#p117896. Note what was said above and the differences also what you bought and what your putting it on. Not sure what yours looks like so.....
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The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
Mick Jagger
Mick Jagger
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Dan McEachern
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J1MGOLDEN
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Re: Hot Air Pipe
The early new one will work.
It is just a case of cut to specification, pound to fit, and paint to match.
The top area has to be pounded in about 1/4 to 3/8th inch in line with the choke/ mixture rod (as Mark's photo shows), and the hole for the exhaust clamp has to be cut out more on the bottom or top, I forget which way, but then it will work OK, and last a long time.
It is just a case of cut to specification, pound to fit, and paint to match.
The top area has to be pounded in about 1/4 to 3/8th inch in line with the choke/ mixture rod (as Mark's photo shows), and the hole for the exhaust clamp has to be cut out more on the bottom or top, I forget which way, but then it will work OK, and last a long time.