FJ - Check your trailer wheel bearing races !

[FreighTer Jim]

The day after Christmas as I climbed up I-17
out of the Verde Valley towards Flagstaff
I noticed my rear trailer wheel smoking
on the driver side of my tandem axle trailer

My trailer wheel is too young to smoke

I found a trailer parts store to open in
Flagstaff and paid the expected markup
for a new drum and hub - brake backing plate
assembly and wheel bearings for that wheel

I made it to my diesel mechanic & friend
Rudy in Winslow - I had already made an
appointment to change out my front brake pads.

While Rudy changed out my brake pads
I took care of that wheel - then we proceeded
to change out the brake backing plate assemblies
and service the wheel bearings on the remaining
three wheels.

My trailer is three years old.

Once a year I replace all off the brake backing
plate assemblies - wheel drum & hub assemblies
and wheel bearings.

I had done this nine months earlier.

The wheel was not lost - the outer bearing race
had come out of the wheel hub assembly and
had been spinning along with the wheel bearing.

They fused together and as they worked their way
out to the end of the spindle - it formed a ridge.

That ridge kept the wheel from falling off.

The smoke was from the wheel magnet
burning up and melting .

This is the second wheel bearing race that has
come loose from a factory wheel hub assembly
that I have had to deal with.

The other was a few years ago on the inner
bearing on a passenger side wheel.

I have been told it is a quality control issue.

The wheel bearing drum assembly casting
can be slightly ovaled or out of true round
in manufacture.

This can cause the pressed in wheel bearing race
to come out of the wheel drum & hub assembly.

These were Dexter factory wheel drum & hubs.


FJ

[Adam]

This same sort of thing is also real common in original, used T front wheel hubs. If you set up a dial-bore-gauge and measure all over the inside of the bore, you can easily determine if the bores are properly undersize and properly round for correct fit of a new race. Many times, you will find a bore that is properly undersize at a few points, and a little too oversize at other points (out of round). If you press or drive a new race in, it may feel properly tight, but maybe won’t stay that way very long.

[Steve Jelf]

It's rather disappointing when you're sailing along the interstate and suddenly one of your trailer wheels passes you and disappears down the bank. Much unscheduled hassle ensues.

[Dan McEachern]

While Jim has brought up the subject of trailer wheel bearings, its a really good idea to take the time to identify the bearing numbers for the inner and outer cups and cones and seal used on your trailer and buy one of each and keep them in the trailer or with you when you go on a trip. Finding bearings in the middle of the night or on a weekend can be a challenge- more so if you don't know what you need. If ya have em, hopefully you will never need them! I have a set strung together on a wire thru the boxes hanging in the nose of my trailer.

[RajoRacer]

Good suggestion Dan - we trailered the '14 down your way for the National a couple years ago but I did have the Pace serviced with new bearing components & brakes prior to the trip but I believe I'm going to do just what you suggested as we're headed to Spokane for this years National (maybe) albeit a little closer !

[SurfCityGene]

I like to take advantage of the tandem axels where there's a deep dip or by using a block to get a wheel off the ground. That's a good time to grab the wheel top and bottom and do a quick check for a loose bearing and a good spin with your hearing aids turned up.

[Art M]

I suspect that the majority of these type of failures are caused by the bearing adjusted too tight. A grease lubricated tapered roller bearing should have at least .001 inch of endplay.
The reason GM and other vehicle manufacturers started using non-adjustable preset wheel bearings is because the bearings were not being properly adjusted when serviced.
I try to stay away from trailers, particularly boat trailers, when driving on the interstate highways.
Art Mirtes

[StanHowe]

Hmmmmmmmmmmm. Maybe I should have my wheel bearings checked. I've pulled my 24 foot flatbed thousands of miles. It came out of Canada, built by Trailtech, probably 15 years old, has two 7,000 lb axles with 285/75/16 tires under it. Spring axles. I have never checked them altho John might have when he has used it. I've haul my backhoe, cars, tractors, whatever needs to go at 70-85 all the time.

I have found that one place trailer manufacturers save money is with lighter cheaper axles. Some of the cheap enclosed trailers use axles made in Sri Lanka or some place. I have a new (2019) Well Cargo 7 x 12 enclosed that has bigger wheels and tires than a lot of them do. I thought it was worth the extra money at the time, still do. I also pull the Chinese Hi Run or whatever tires that come on them and replace them with American made Mastercraft trailer tires. I've still had a couple flats but trust them more than I do whatever woosing or somebody cranked out.

[StanHowe]

So talking about trailers, enclosed and otherwise, I've been thinking about a new enclosed trailer for my 27 coupe since I don't have a garage for it, thinking it would be good storage for it -- I hate having it sit outside but at this point that is the only option -- and don't want to try to build anything more here.

What is your experience with enclosed trailers? A friend just bought a Look, which I am not familiar with, they sell Mirage and Pace and some others, my last one was a Work N Play but wasn't tall enough to put my coupe in, I sold it. I want one big enough for the coupe, a work space in the front and a little stuff to take along to a tour. Other than that it will sit and store the car.

Ideas??? What to look for??? Experience with different brands??

Jim???? You probably pull more miles than the rest of us. I have a Ford F250 Super Duty, 460, Auto, 4 x 4, Long Box, Supercab with 285/75/16 Mastercraft 10 ply tires so I can pull about anything within reason.

[Peter, Memphis TN]

When I'm pulling my T in its trailer, I have developed a habit of checking the temps of all the tires and bearings (car and trailer) at every stop.

I take my infra-red thermometer (the same thing the doctors' offices use to check you for Covid before they let you in) and walk around the car and trailer, checking the temperature of every tire's tread, and every hub.

A tire with low pressure will heat up. A warm or hot hub spells bearing trouble.

It's not so much that I'm looking at the exact temp of each one, it's that I'm looking for one that is significantly different from the others.

I highly recommend this procedure as a "thing I always do."

[FreighTer Jim]

Stan

Buy what is available.

Mark Atkins helped me replace the floor on
my 3 year old trailer & then he sealed it.

There is a waiting list for new trailers.

I think you can get a good deal on
a decent gently used trailer if you
look around some.

I have to have mine custom built
because I transport a variety of vehicles.

Dropped off in Seattle earlier today.

1986 VW Westfalia Camper Van.

86 inches tall.


FJ

[Allan]

Tight wheel bearings will cause problems with overheating and failure. It is better to have a smidgeon of play than trying to tune your adjustment to take out any play. The same goes for T wheel bearings. Leave them a little loose before tightening the nut, and then check again to see if they are still a little loose. If not, back off the nut, wind the bearing out a little and repeat, until you have that smidgeon of play. Just make sure that the play you are feeling is not slop in the king pin bushes.

Hope this saves some problems.
AllAn from down under.

[2nighthawks]

Stan - I have an Interstate enclosed trailer that I am very happy with, but I have to admit that in the couple years I've had it, I probably only have a thousand or so miles on it. So I can't really tell you much about the trailer except that I am very happy with it so far. What I can tell you about is the dealer (Trailers Plus) in Lacy, WA. that I am very happy with. They are very good to work with, and even send me annual "reminders" to bring the trailer in to them every year for free lube and inspection check-up. The free lube of course covers unimportant things like door hinges and such, but also wheel bearings as well. What i particularly like is that "Trailers Plus" has dealer/service/parts agencies all over the country (46 at last count) which I think is valuable in itself. (....for instance, if I have a wheel bearing go out!) FWIW,.....harold

P.S. Probably because you and I are similar in age, I use my enclosed trailer a lot the way you are talking about Stan. For storage, and a sort of traveling workshop, and of course transport of Model T(S) with sleeping quarters in the front and vee-nose end. Bunk beds that easily convert to bench/table/bed(s) in various combinations easily without tools due to use of both vertical and horizontal E-track and many of the available brackets & fittings. Trust me,....E-track is the "old mans friend",...again, FWIW,.....harold