1926 model t questions

[laporte1926]

Folks,

So I joined the board to figure out whether I am going to get myself in over my head. There is a 1926 model T ford that a family friend has that has only been owned by 2 owners both in the same town in which the model t was originally purchased. I don't want to see it leave the area since if it would be very unique to keep the car locally owned. All the original paperwork from the dealer is with the car. So now to the big questions.. Since the second owner has passed away there is really no one that fully understands the vehicle. I had mentioned to the second owner years ago that I would be interested in it.. if he would ever sell it just to keep it in the community, so the family contacted me. So it supposedly starts.. but have not verified yet! What should I look for in regards to issues. I know I am probably opening a can of worms asking this question. Are parts really hard to get? Is this something where I could end up spending 5, 10, 15 thousand just to get it going? The car is in what I consider good condition just looking at it. Is there a online resource to look at about restoration?

I know I am not probably giving the needed information for a lot of help... but am fully asking for you to just ask me questions, so I can start a list and get a better understanding!

Thanks!

[TMiller6]

Hi Todd,

Welcome to the forum.

The 1926 Fords have some unique parts that were only used for 1 or 2 model years. Fortunately there are other T owners in your area that can help you with parts and give you advice. This forum is also a good source. I myself have some 1926 Fords I am restoring and can share stories.

You don’t mention the body style. Closed cars, especially the Fordor, can be more expensive to maintain or restore because of wood, upholstery and glass.

Can you tell us more about the car? Any photos?

[Susanne]

Parts are fairly easy to get, there are a lot of vendors who sell repop and used parts...

If you can post a few pictures of your new baby, that would help us a lot to see what you're into.

As long as they don't want shares of a diamond mine, it's prety hard to go wrong.

[TWrenn]

Probably one of the first things to do is have someone help you at the starter switch, after you remove all the spark plugs and use a compression tester to test compression on all the cylinders. Yes, there's various ways to perform it, cold vs. warm, throttle wide open as some say, closed, either way, just check it. If it's (in my non-expert opinion) is much anything less than 30lbs. per cylinder, you are staring at least at a valve job, but more likely a complete engine rebuild, because if you're going to tear it down enough to replace rings, do a valve job, etc. then it may as well be gone totally over. Right there you can spend anywhere from $4K to $6K maybe even more, depending on who you find to do the work. Otherwise, the running gear is the next "wear item" and for the most part isn't all that expensive to remedy, and parts are readily available. Like Susanne said, send some pics and FWIW maybe some more helpful comments can be posted. Welcome to the affliction (hopefully!), and good luck.

[TWrenn]

BTW...even 30 lbs. compression is pretty darned low, but you could run on it for your first "learning season" before dumping money in the engine. I ran a '12 on 28 lbs. for it's last season before a rebuild, but it was hard to get it to start cold. It was okay once warmed up.

[Norman Kling]

The 26 is actually one of the easier cars to restore, if the steel is in good condition, because it has an all steel body. Most of the parts are readily available from several parts sources in the east and west coasts as well as Texas. Some parts which are harder to find would be the gas tank which in most of the that year is behind the firewall under the cowl. However, with a good gas tank the car will climb many hills in high gear without fear of running low on gas. Most body parts are either being reproduced or used ones appear at swap meets. The open cars are easiest to work on and the tops of them are "one man tops" which are easier to install and raise and lower.
Let us see some pictures of the car from different angles including under side. The mechanical parts are easy to work on and most can be done by one or two people with simple hand tools. For more complicated work, such as machine shop work, there are still shops which can help you. It is best to ask local club members to recommend a good machine shop which is familiar with Model T's. The club has "how to do" manuals and videos available to help you along the way.
Another thing to consider would be the location for parking the car. Open cars are easier to find a parking place, because if they are too tall to fit in a garage with the top up, you can put it down for parking, however the closed cars are tall and you need a high opening to your garage to park inside.
Norm

[jiminbartow]

If the main reason you are wanting to buy this car is to keep it in the area, whether it is in good condition or not should not matter. If you don’t buy it, it may be sold to someone else and removed from the area and possibly wind up in a field or worse, as a hot rod project for some kid without any mechanical knowledge, a short attention span and a penchant for quitting. If I were you, I would go ahead and buy it and, once you own it, sort out all the details. The longer you wait, the more time the owners have to find another buyer, or change their mind, especially if they sense you are unsure of whether or not you want it or if your offer is dependent on the mechanical condition of the car. They have already approached you to sell it, so you should be able to get a good deal. The less they know about the condition (especially if it runs) the better the price you will get it for. If they know little about the T,have no interest in it and are currently anxious to sell it, but you talk about it so much as to generate a genuine interest in them in what they have, they may decide to keep it and you may lose the momentum and the opportunity. If you want it, be decisive, make an offer and buy it.

Don’t worry about finding parts, I have a 1926 coupe and there is no part that I needed that I was not able to find. At the age of 16, I bought my 1926 coupe in 1970 and it could not have been in worse condition. Covered in thick rust, dents and bullet holes through the sides with broken glass, rotten tires, rotten wood and a 4” high belt of rusted out metal all the way around the bottom of the doors and body, and not running, but otherwise, complete, it took me two years to do a total body off restoration from the ground up. Without the internet, or the MTFCA resources available today, I did it all myself, learning as I went from three Model T books that every T owner should have. Even in 1970, parts were easy to get and even easier now so that should not be a concern. Jim Patrick

PS. After 50 years, I still have the coupe.

73D3D1A5-5F49-4822-A2BA-A2B7B076966A.jpeg (78.55 KiB) Viewed 4627 times

[Mopar_man]

Well before you get yourself into an old car the first thing you should consider is that if you are worried about a return on your investment restoring a 26 is not a good place to start. For that matter restoring a car should be because you want to do it. Rarely will you see a profit. So.... Could you spend $15,000 on a car and end up with a $8,000 car in the end? Yes. I'm restoring a 26 and I'm more than 4,000 in and I haven't even driven it yet. Now picking a Model T to restore is going to be easier than a car that was produced in limited numbers. So can you get parts? Yes!

The model T is a great car to restore. It's very easy to understand and will be a fun project. Getting involved with other T owners in your area is a must. Keeping an eye on this forum for tips is great. You will be joining a family of very helpful T owners.

If you decide to get the car don't get frustrated with it. After all Its already outlived its life expectancy.

[Steve Jelf]

Are parts really hard to get? Is this something where I could end up spending 5, 10, 15 thousand just to get it going? The car is in what I consider good condition just looking at it. Is there a online resource to look at about restoration?

No. A few parts are not reproduced and are scarce, but most parts are easy. You say the car looks pretty good. I assume that means it won't need many body parts, which tends to be the category where some things are scarce. Most mechanical parts are plentiful used or available new, at prices from cheap to expensive.

No. Just getting it going often costs under $100, or even nothing. If it needs a complete engine/transmission rebuild, that can cost four to six grand. How much you spend in this department depends on how you intend to use the car. For occasional runs to a local ice cream shop or parade, it may not need much at all. For long cross country trips it may need considerable work.

Yes, there are several online resources. One is this forum, of course. A Google search of past posts often brings up plenty of good advice, and you can ask about specific subjects. There are also online videos. You didn't ask about printed matter, but there is a lot of that too.
http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html

[Steve Jelf]

Well before you get yourself into an old car the first thing you should consider is that if you are worried about a return on your investment restoring a 26 is not a good place to start. For that matter restoring a car should be because you want to do it.

Yes. Owning and fixing up a Model T has to be for fun, because it's almost guaranteed to cost more than you'll get back if you eventually sell. But while a full restoration can cost big bucks, not all Model T's need a full restoration. Many are perfectly OK with just making the drive train reliable and looking like a used car.

[J1MGOLDEN]

I have kind of been specializing in the 1926 - 1927 Fords since 1980 and learned a lot the hard way.

I have never seen the directions on how to remove the gas tank and a friend has a gas tank full of loose black bubble gum.

There is no information on why it was put in the tank and no information I can find on how to remove that gas tank.

The confusion relates to the cowl area overflow pipe that runs down the passenger side firewall.

[RajoRacer]

Drain the tank ! There is a small set screw that retains the overflow pipe - find the screw, remove it & the pipe. It helps to remove the ignition switch/ammeter, loosen the pedals as much as possible & tie them pedal down towards the firewall, remove the sediment bulb, the 2 retaining straps and wrestle the tank out - I've done several - just not a fun task !

[jiminbartow]

Jim, I believe the ‘26–‘27 cowl tank on the Touring is much more difficult to remove than the cowl tank of the Coupe and Tudor. If you look at them, the cowl on the Touring is flatter, while the Coupe and Tudor cowls are more sweeping and aerodynamic so the Touring cowl is more confined. I remember the tank on my Coupe was not all that difficult to remove or re-install. It took a few trials and errors but I shortly got it in. You are correct that the tank must be tilted down and the drain pipe put through the firewall first, before anything else. I believe I also recall that I was able to get it in easier whenever I pushed the pedals all the way forward and secured them to keep them out of the way, but it was a long time ago. Just gotta keep at it until you find the right way to get ‘er in. Jim Patrick

[J1MGOLDEN]

Jim, I did not know that either!

Thanks!

[laporte1926]

Everyone thanks for all the responses. I will get some pictures and post them. I feel better on the cost of getting it going as it seems from the response these cars are not an extreme money pit. I am looking to keep it original and as one post mentioned.. drive it to the local ice cream parlor. i am looking at this as a family heirloom for the future and not a vehicle to fix up and sell.. so I realize I will probably have more into it then it might be worth, but that does not bother me... I just didn't want to end up spending tens of thousands to get it operational. I know that over the years that might be the case as I continue to look at fun things to do to it in the restoration area. In the beginning I just want to get it on the road and learn to enjoy it, learn from having it, and share the wonder of it with those in the community with having the history in a book with the car for folks to read and enjoy!

Thanks again for all the responses!!

[Steve Jelf]

It's a rare treasure having the original paperwork.Take good care of it. A known two-owner car is also pretty rare. I'd suggest that you have the two families tell you all they know of the car, and make a written record of it.

[jiminbartow]

I don’t think you will regret it. With their temperament, appearance and sounds, like the buzzing coils, the horn, the rattles, the gurgle of the boiling the radiator, the chug chug of the engine and the occassional backfire, Model T’s grow on you and seem to take on a personality of their own so like mine and many member’s Model T’s, your Model T will become a beloved member of the family. Let’s see those pictures. Jim Patrick

[John Codman]

I would agree with those who say that if you think you will ever make a profit on this car - forgetaboudid. It ain't gonna happen. As to parts - if you need it, someone will have it, they made 15,000,000 of them. There are a few parts that are peculiar to '26 and '27, but aside from the gas tank there is nothing that you can't find (and there are used or repairable tanks out there). Model Ts increase in value as they increase in age, so don't pay too much for a '26 unless there is a sentimental attachment. Get someone knowledgeable to look it over and then decide if you want to make an offer. The person with the knowledge is important because most Model Ts have been backyard mechanic maintained, and may contain many parts that are not original the the specific year of the car. If what you want is a driver this may not be important to you, but if you intend to show it, you could be in a position where you have to spent quite a bit of money to replace good but incorrect parts. Check to see if the engine number matches (or is close to) the number stamped on the frame.

[Steve Jelf]

Check to see if the engine number matches (or is close to) the number stamped on the frame.

If there is one. Stamping the engine serial number on the frame began December 10, 1925, so cars made before that date don't have it.

[TRDxB2]

So I joined the board to figure out whether I am going to get myself in over my head. There is a 1926 model T ford that a family friend has that has only been owned by 2 owners both in the same town in which the model t was originally purchased. I don't want to see it leave the area since if it would be very unique to keep the car locally owned. All the original paperwork from the dealer is with the car. So now to the big questions..

So now to the big questions.. . what is holding you back? With all the cautions on condition - a 2 owner car that was originally purchased in the same town may be considered the ultimate Barn Find. So the only issue is price and it doesn't matter what your thinking but what the sellers are willing to accept.
I also did a search on MTFCA members in the area and there is a Mike Stutz in Laporte Colorado, 1923 Roadster. GOOGLEd nubar.com and there is a Michael Stutz, (970) 493-1638, 4234 Moccasin Cir, Laporte, CO ... might give him a call

[John Codman]

Steve Jelf is as almost always correct, but the odds are that if it's a '26 there will be a serial number stamped on the right frame rail under the front floorboards. If it's a really early '26 it may not have the stamped number. In that case you can check to see if the engine number would be appropriate for a '26. FWIW: Even if the number is way off from what a '26 should be, if (as I said in my earlier post) what you want is a good driver, so what? I have a good friend (who actually got me into the model T fraternity) who has a beautiful "24 that has a '19 engine. Who cares?

[J1MGOLDEN]

There are quite a few 1926-27 parts that were used on the 1928 Model A and are still available in Model A catalogs.

The small lever to turn off the gas is one example. I just bough one and it fits perfect.

There is a slight modification involved with that one, a top projection to limit travel has to be removed and that area planed a little.

The dash mounting and window frame screws also are the same.

The wire wheels interchange, the only difference is a slightly larger Model A hubcap.

There are others!

[Steve Jelf]

the odds are that if it's a '26 there will be a serial number stamped on the right frame rail under the front floorboards. If it's a really early '26 it may not have the stamped number.

Correct. About 36% of 1926 Fords (664,648) were made before frame numbering began (December 10, 1925).