Engine and transmission questions

[4banger1988]

Hello
I am currently in the process of overhauling the transmission of my model t.
have new drums and a new starter wreath and new gearshaft and many other parts. I also convert to slinger kit.
my real question is.
Do I really have to drum and balance the flywheel statically now? is that really necessary with such a low-revving engine?
if so how did you do that! show me pictures or videos of your balancing devices.
Would also have a lathe if it works.
do you then do that with drilling holes?

My second question is about the oil supply.
a pipe goes in.
the oilslingers shovel it up, run it into the pipe and into the engine on the bearings.
is that enough or can it be improved?
greetz patrick

[4banger1988]

Here the pics

[speedytinc]

You dont have to balance stuff, but, the return is great for the effort. Smooth running @ all speeds. More horse power. Less engine strain. Longer life.

Ideal balancing is with a "crank balancer" Thats a fixture with 2 pairs of sensitive ball bearing wheels on either end. A more primitive thing can be made from 2 straight edges. I have used 2-3', 1"" parallel angle iron bars made level.

CAUTION: some venders sell, or used to sell some flimsey slingers that would come apart. My current favorite slinger, I make from 3/4" by 1/8" aluminum T6 angle about 6" long. Bolt them & ring gear on with metric bolts on flywheel edge in place of magnets. 4 angled to sling, not pump oil into the center.

Drums low & reverse individually. I lighten by removing material around the big holes. New drums wont need much work as compared to original drums. Brake drum, by drilling 1/2 & 3/8" non thru holes in the flange face outer edges. Once thats perfect, mount the output plate & do the same to it. Rotate the clutch spring until you get best balance. By the nature of a movable spring, I dont think perfection is possible here. Drum shaft assembled with clutch hub. Lighten on outer diameter away from inner clutch plate slots. Balance tripple gears by weight. Remove material from inner face opposite bushing flange. I use a lathe with carbide. The outer surface is super hard, but can be done. Fly wheel with 2 transmission shafts bolted together.

[speedytinc]

Slingers look to thin for my taste. Check that original funnel tube for nicks, kinks & dents to cause plugging. If you are not opposed to cutting into your hogs head, Bird haven sells a good hi volume oil pick up to move extra oil to the front. Stay away from mag oilers, They dont move enough oil IMO.

[Cap]

Cap

[speedytinc]

Yea, thats one. Not keen on the fitting that enters the pan. On normal late pan, I braze in a 3/8 to 1/2" pipe bushing with the 1/2" threads machined off. For an early pan, I braze the bushing into the dipper tray as not to damage original early parts.

[J and M Machine]

Yes it is a good idea to balance when done properly.!

The three pictures show how far out a Model T flywheel can be. This example is a 1914 that we balanced. Being off a total of 1010 grams or 2.2 pounds.
Definitely car would of shook at any RPM. Best advice is to have it balanced along with weight matching triple gears as they are off in weight as well.

[Dan McEachern]

If you do nothing else, static balance the flywheel- if you have no access to a machine shop or a balancing service, do as John said- use two main shafts- one out each side. Rest the shafts on 2 knife blades made from scrap metal. Heavy side will roll down. Use modeling clay on light side to balance, then drill holes on heavy side until flywheel stops randomly. Flywheels with the magnets removed WILL be out of balance, and yes,enough to cause problems.