Quality transmission parts

[Bryant]

Looking to get any ideas on what vendors have the best transmission rebuild parts? Iam looking to start the process of rebuilding. I usually get things from Lang’s but pondering other sources people may have used.

[Steve Jelf]

I expect all the parts dealers sell from the same sources. For transmission drums I doubt that you'll find any better than Dave Nolting's.

[Alan Long]

I agree with Mr Jelf
Dave’s Drums are very good.
If the original Ford Bushes are still within spec (or very close to) I’d reuse them.
Only my opinion
Alan in Western Australia

[speedytinc]

Looking to get any ideas on what vendors have the best transmission rebuild parts? Iam looking to start the process of rebuilding. I usually get things from Lang’s but pondering other sources people may have used.

Parts are the easy part. Z bronze bushings.
A proper rebuild requires @ minimum a lathe & press. Balance work. I believe Milt Webb put out an exhaustive "how to"
This is a job better done by professionals. At least READ, READ, READ before you try it. T-1 will tell you how to disassemble. Need special pullers. Never pull on drums.

[George Mills]

Last time that I looked, there were two different pin vendors and both were definately serviceable, yet one was just a degree more precision out of the box. It's been a while tho and you can maybe do a search...I think the one was center-less ground, the other ground on centers like originals but I can't recall which one was the 'tighter' of the two.

Do mic them when you get them...I'm also told there are oversize pins somewhere in circulation that should be labelled as T715AR but may not be. The fat end tells you which is which.

FWIW, if you do decide to do things yourself...really do search as the final clearance for a home done job CAN NOT be what is purported to be the designed clearance. You hone them to that number and you may just get 100 miles out of the rebuild

[Bryant]

Looking to get any ideas on what vendors have the best transmission rebuild parts? Iam looking to start the process of rebuilding. I usually get things from Lang’s but pondering other sources people may have used.

Parts are the easy part. Z bronze bushings.
A proper rebuild requires @ minimum a lathe & press. Balance work. I believe Milt Webb put out an exhaustive "how to"
This is a job better done by professionals. At least READ, READ, READ before you try it. T-1 will tell you how to disassemble. Need special pullers. Never pull on drums.

Fortunately I consider myself a professional
Also I have a very good Machinist with lots of experience and a full machine shop in his basement! I also bought the MTFCA transmission book and I read it twice. I understand what is in store. My main experience comes from far more complicated large agricultural transmissions. So I expect a very well planned thought out balanced/to spec rebuild.as far as tools the farm I serve has just about everything you could want. Thou I have my eye on one Specific puller I would like to obtain for my own collection. I can’t wait to get started!

[Bryant]

Last time that I looked, there were two different pin vendors and both were definately serviceable, yet one was just a degree more precision out of the box. It's been a while tho and you can maybe do a search...I think the one was center-less ground, the other ground on centers like originals but I can't recall which one was the 'tighter' of the two.

Do mic them when you get them...I'm also told there are oversize pins somewhere in circulation that should be labelled as T715AR but may not be. The fat end tells you which is which.

FWIW, if you do decide to do things yourself...really do search as the final clearance for a home done job CAN NOT be what is purported to be the designed clearance. You hone them to that number and you may just get 100 miles out of the rebuild

thanks for the extra documents! I’ve been trying to gather all the info I can

[speedytinc]

By your question, I would not have imagined your capabilities.
Bored or honed bushings. "racing clearance" fits. Go to the outside specs.
The clutch hub puller langs sells is a great tool.

[Scott_Conger]

Bryant

heed John's admonition regarding clearances

In most cases, the large bushings in the drums are serviceable as-is

with respect to triple gear bushings, you can find a lot of disagreement on what the drawing means for those bushings. It's an interesting read if you research it, but if you chose the wrong fellow to listen to, you will get much practice rebuilding your new transmission. Over and over.

Read this regarding our Tech Editor's sad tale and resulting information presented...and note the Ford Factory finished clearances derived from both the reamed and broached method of bushing sizing: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/210880.html

A careful read will further reinforce John's advice

[Bryant]

By your question, I would not have imagined your capabilities.
Bored or honed bushings. "racing clearance" fits. Go to the outside specs.
The clutch hub puller langs sells is a great tool.

Sorry for the confusion. My question was basically where people have gotten quality parts from. Since this will be my first T transmission I don’t want to end up with some run of the mill parts that don’t last if I could avoid it. the hub puller was the one I was looking at. I will take your word that it is good thanks

[Bryant]

Bryant

heed John's admonition regarding clearances

In most cases, the large bushings in the drums are serviceable as-is

with respect to triple gear bushings, you can find a lot of disagreement on what the drawing means for those bushings. It's an interesting read if you research it, but if you chose the wrong fellow to listen to, you will get much practice rebuilding your new transmission. Over and over.

Read this regarding our Tech Editor's sad tale and resulting information presented...and note the Ford Factory finished clearances derived from both the reamed and broached method of bushing sizing: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/210880.html

A careful read will further reinforce John's advice

thanks I will give it a read later. Fortunately my machinist friend is very talented. I will take the information I’ve obtained with tolerance/balance and the like and Iam confident on success

[Steve Jelf]

The original Ford clutch drum puller sometimes works, but a particularly stubborn drum will just bend it.

I agree the puller sold by the parts dealers is much better.

You can also make your own if you have a heavy enough chunk of steel.

[Mopar_man]

OK here is my 2 cents. I just went down this road You can see what I've done here

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9508

My Transmission broke a triple gear pin and ended up causing all kinds of issues. The Model T is a very forgiving car until it's not. You can read all about people bandaging their car together using all sorts of trickery. Some good some bad. For me rebuilding the transmission was beyond what I was capable of.

I started researching machine shops and found J&M Machine in MA. When I brought them the transmission John took it apart and magnafluxed the drums. Two of them were cracked. The third was put on a lath so many times that it was extremely thin. So I needed new drums. Not many people make them but J&M does. Comparing their drums to the originals I could see that the J&M ones were very strong. Keep in mind that when using 100 year old parts most things will be worn out. I also got to see what a good machine shop looked like while I was there. I chose to use their drums and their services as I didn't want to do this job again.

They balanced everything and made sure that I would all work perfectly.

Balence machine.jpeg (88.83 KiB) Viewed 3612 times

gear weight.jpeg (87.36 KiB) Viewed 3612 times

So were they a bit more money. Sure. Did I make an investment in my transmission so I won't have future problems. Yes!!

Drums.jpeg (82.19 KiB) Viewed 3612 times

Remember Machine work is expensive. Bad machine work is way more expensive.

[Bryant]

OK here is my 2 cents. I just went down this road You can see what I've done here

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9508

My Transmission broke a triple gear pin and ended up causing all kinds of issues. The Model T is a very forgiving car until it's not. You can read all about people bandaging their car together using all sorts of trickery. Some good some bad. For me rebuilding the transmission was beyond what I was capable of.

I started researching machine shops and found J&M Machine in MA. When I brought them the transmission John took it apart and magnafluxed the drums. Two of them were cracked. The third was put on a lath so many times that it was extremely thin. So I needed new drums. Not many people make them but J&M does. Comparing their drums to the originals I could see that the J&M ones were very strong. Keep in mind that when using 100 year old parts most things will be worn out. I also got to see what a good machine shop looked like while I was there. I chose to use their drums and their services as I didn't want to do this job again.

IMG_4027.jpeg

They balanced everything and made sure that I would all work perfectly.

Balence machine.jpeg

gear weight.jpeg

IMG_4111.jpeg

So were they a bit more money. Sure. Did I make an investment in my transmission so I won't have future problems. Yes!!
Drums.jpeg

Remember Machine work is expensive. Bad machine work is way more expensive.

Hey I’ve read thru the rattles thread. Good stuff love the planetary pack pictures. Looks like you have done some reading. I look forward to doing mine no matter what I find. Just “looking” at the trans internals they appear solid/clean/nice color/smooth drums/got all her teeth. The triple gears feel a little wobbly thou. It’s a 26 Tudor if I didn’t mention it. I have a Fresh short block so the trans is next on the list so I can stay true to the fourth main and heck why not? I love playing with this thing. In the end I will take everything apart

[Scott_Conger]

Bryant

Do be sure to READ it, and more importantly, have your machinist friend read it, too.

A good machinist, if he uses modern machinery practice and does not heed the information contained in that thread from the Ford Factory, will build you a transmission which is theoretically correct upon installation, and actually broken within 100 miles.

It's that important.

[Bryant]

Bryant

Do be sure to READ it, and more importantly, have your machinist friend read it, too.

A good machinist, if he uses modern machinery practice and does not heed the information contained in that thread from the Ford Factory, will build you a transmission which is theoretically correct upon installation, and actually broken within 100 miles.

It's that important.

I definitely will pass it on to him also. I trust him fully. He is retired now but dose custom work for people. Some of his work is inside the Hubble telescope, and various rocket parts for the gov. His true love is centered around old Harley Davidson motorcycles. So much talent. Thanks for your input it is much appreciated

[Scott_Conger]

It sounds as though your friend and I travelled in the same circles

[John Illinois]

I found the Transmission videos by Mike Bender to be very helpful.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCz9Cs_ ... d6e-WMvuRQ


John

[Bryant]

I found the Transmission videos by Mike Bender to be very helpful.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCz9Cs_ ... d6e-WMvuRQ


John

Thank you sir

[George Mills]

Bryant,

Glad to know you have a super machinist to help...

Just a word to the wise once again...IGNORE the Ford specification of 0.002" 'clearance'. Ignore the Ford caution 'worn out at 0.005"'.

You need to shoot for 0.0035 total between the pin and live with size to 'over' in the 4th decimal place. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Make sure to face the bushes to 010" and not leave as stock. Make sure you insert and seat the pins from the right side. Make sure the oil grove in the bush is full and not just a scratch in the bronze.

All of this is in the book, but make yourself post-its...its not just 'only a T'. Done right and driven right that 0035" will take your lifetime and then some to grow past 0.005". Done too tight or to original Ford specs...and those who warn know...your chances of swallowing the rebuild in early mileage go astronomical.

If your friend would like to know design 'maximum material condition' and 'minimal material condition' range charts made from Ford original drawings...drop me a note...most folks don't understand them so I won't confuse here, but if your friend is that saavy...I'm here.

[speedytinc]

Bryant,

Glad to know you have a super machinist to help...

Just a word to the wise once again...IGNORE the Ford specification of 0.002" 'clearance'. Ignore the Ford caution 'worn out at 0.005"'.

You need to shoot for 0.0035 total between the pin and live with size to 'over' in the 4th decimal place. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Make sure to face the bushes to 010" and not leave as stock. Make sure you insert and seat the pins from the right side. Make sure the oil grove in the bush is full and not just a scratch in the bronze.

All of this is in the book, but make yourself post-its...its not just 'only a T'. Done right and driven right that 0035" will take your lifetime and then some to grow past 0.005". Done too tight or to original Ford specs...and those who warn know...your chances of swallowing the rebuild in early mileage go astronomical.

If your friend would like to know design 'maximum material condition' and 'minimal material condition' range charts made from Ford original drawings...drop me a note...most folks don't understand them so I won't confuse here, but if your friend is that saavy...I'm here.

In the effort to ever improve my motor building skills, I would be interested in any new info or specs. Surely there are others interested also. Those that its beyond can skip it. I would encourage you to post it, If its not too difficult. Thanks.

[Bryant]

Thanks! Scott sent over an older thread on the subject. i read thru it and feel its very helpful i went ahead and printed it out for my ever growing information pile! I've got so much info i have smoke coming out of my ears