Quality transmission parts
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Topic author - Posts: 1152
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Quality transmission parts
Looking to get any ideas on what vendors have the best transmission rebuild parts? Iam looking to start the process of rebuilding. I usually get things from Lang’s but pondering other sources people may have used.
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Re: Quality transmission parts
I expect all the parts dealers sell from the same sources. For transmission drums I doubt that you'll find any better than Dave Nolting's.
The inevitable often happens.
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Re: Quality transmission parts
I agree with Mr Jelf
Dave’s Drums are very good.
If the original Ford Bushes are still within spec (or very close to) I’d reuse them.
Only my opinion
Alan in Western Australia
Dave’s Drums are very good.
If the original Ford Bushes are still within spec (or very close to) I’d reuse them.
Only my opinion
Alan in Western Australia
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Re: Quality transmission parts
Parts are the easy part. Z bronze bushings.
A proper rebuild requires @ minimum a lathe & press. Balance work. I believe Milt Webb put out an exhaustive "how to"
This is a job better done by professionals. At least READ, READ, READ before you try it. T-1 will tell you how to disassemble. Need special pullers. Never pull on drums.
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Re: Quality transmission parts
Last time that I looked, there were two different pin vendors and both were definately serviceable, yet one was just a degree more precision out of the box. It's been a while tho and you can maybe do a search...I think the one was center-less ground, the other ground on centers like originals but I can't recall which one was the 'tighter' of the two.
Do mic them when you get them...I'm also told there are oversize pins somewhere in circulation that should be labelled as T715AR but may not be. The fat end tells you which is which.
FWIW, if you do decide to do things yourself...really do search as the final clearance for a home done job CAN NOT be what is purported to be the designed clearance. You hone them to that number and you may just get 100 miles out of the rebuild
Do mic them when you get them...I'm also told there are oversize pins somewhere in circulation that should be labelled as T715AR but may not be. The fat end tells you which is which.
FWIW, if you do decide to do things yourself...really do search as the final clearance for a home done job CAN NOT be what is purported to be the designed clearance. You hone them to that number and you may just get 100 miles out of the rebuild
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Topic author - Posts: 1152
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Re: Quality transmission parts
Fortunately I consider myself a professionalspeedytinc wrote: ↑Thu Nov 11, 2021 8:40 amParts are the easy part. Z bronze bushings.
A proper rebuild requires @ minimum a lathe & press. Balance work. I believe Milt Webb put out an exhaustive "how to"
This is a job better done by professionals. At least READ, READ, READ before you try it. T-1 will tell you how to disassemble. Need special pullers. Never pull on drums.
Also I have a very good Machinist with lots of experience and a full machine shop in his basement! I also bought the MTFCA transmission book and I read it twice. I understand what is in store. My main experience comes from far more complicated large agricultural transmissions. So I expect a very well planned thought out balanced/to spec rebuild.as far as tools the farm I serve has just about everything you could want. Thou I have my eye on one Specific puller I would like to obtain for my own collection. I can’t wait to get started!
“Whether you think you can, or think you can’t-you’re right.”
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Topic author - Posts: 1152
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Re: Quality transmission parts
thanks for the extra documents! I’ve been trying to gather all the info I canGeorge Mills wrote: ↑Thu Nov 11, 2021 11:27 amLast time that I looked, there were two different pin vendors and both were definately serviceable, yet one was just a degree more precision out of the box. It's been a while tho and you can maybe do a search...I think the one was center-less ground, the other ground on centers like originals but I can't recall which one was the 'tighter' of the two.
Do mic them when you get them...I'm also told there are oversize pins somewhere in circulation that should be labelled as T715AR but may not be. The fat end tells you which is which.
FWIW, if you do decide to do things yourself...really do search as the final clearance for a home done job CAN NOT be what is purported to be the designed clearance. You hone them to that number and you may just get 100 miles out of the rebuild
“Whether you think you can, or think you can’t-you’re right.”
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Re: Quality transmission parts
By your question, I would not have imagined your capabilities.
Bored or honed bushings. "racing clearance" fits. Go to the outside specs.
The clutch hub puller langs sells is a great tool.
Bored or honed bushings. "racing clearance" fits. Go to the outside specs.
The clutch hub puller langs sells is a great tool.
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Re: Quality transmission parts
Bryant
heed John's admonition regarding clearances
In most cases, the large bushings in the drums are serviceable as-is
with respect to triple gear bushings, you can find a lot of disagreement on what the drawing means for those bushings. It's an interesting read if you research it, but if you chose the wrong fellow to listen to, you will get much practice rebuilding your new transmission. Over and over.
Read this regarding our Tech Editor's sad tale and resulting information presented...and note the Ford Factory finished clearances derived from both the reamed and broached method of bushing sizing: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/210880.html
A careful read will further reinforce John's advice
heed John's admonition regarding clearances
In most cases, the large bushings in the drums are serviceable as-is
with respect to triple gear bushings, you can find a lot of disagreement on what the drawing means for those bushings. It's an interesting read if you research it, but if you chose the wrong fellow to listen to, you will get much practice rebuilding your new transmission. Over and over.
Read this regarding our Tech Editor's sad tale and resulting information presented...and note the Ford Factory finished clearances derived from both the reamed and broached method of bushing sizing: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/210880.html
A careful read will further reinforce John's advice
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Topic author - Posts: 1152
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Re: Quality transmission parts
Sorry for the confusion. My question was basically where people have gotten quality parts from. Since this will be my first T transmission I don’t want to end up with some run of the mill parts that don’t last if I could avoid it.speedytinc wrote: ↑Thu Nov 11, 2021 2:51 pmBy your question, I would not have imagined your capabilities.
Bored or honed bushings. "racing clearance" fits. Go to the outside specs.
The clutch hub puller langs sells is a great tool.
“Whether you think you can, or think you can’t-you’re right.”
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Topic author - Posts: 1152
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Re: Quality transmission parts
thanks I will give it a read later. Fortunately my machinist friend is very talented. I will take the information I’ve obtained with tolerance/balance and the like and Iam confident on successScott_Conger wrote: ↑Thu Nov 11, 2021 3:09 pmBryant
heed John's admonition regarding clearances
In most cases, the large bushings in the drums are serviceable as-is
with respect to triple gear bushings, you can find a lot of disagreement on what the drawing means for those bushings. It's an interesting read if you research it, but if you chose the wrong fellow to listen to, you will get much practice rebuilding your new transmission. Over and over.
Read this regarding our Tech Editor's sad tale and resulting information presented...and note the Ford Factory finished clearances derived from both the reamed and broached method of bushing sizing: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/210880.html
A careful read will further reinforce John's advice
“Whether you think you can, or think you can’t-you’re right.”
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Re: Quality transmission parts
The original Ford clutch drum puller sometimes works, but a particularly stubborn drum will just bend it.
I agree the puller sold by the parts dealers is much better.
You can also make your own if you have a heavy enough chunk of steel.
I agree the puller sold by the parts dealers is much better.
You can also make your own if you have a heavy enough chunk of steel.
The inevitable often happens.
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Re: Quality transmission parts
OK here is my 2 cents. I just went down this road You can see what I've done here
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9508
My Transmission broke a triple gear pin and ended up causing all kinds of issues. The Model T is a very forgiving car until it's not. You can read all about people bandaging their car together using all sorts of trickery. Some good some bad. For me rebuilding the transmission was beyond what I was capable of.
I started researching machine shops and found J&M Machine in MA. When I brought them the transmission John took it apart and magnafluxed the drums. Two of them were cracked. The third was put on a lath so many times that it was extremely thin. So I needed new drums. Not many people make them but J&M does. Comparing their drums to the originals I could see that the J&M ones were very strong. Keep in mind that when using 100 year old parts most things will be worn out. I also got to see what a good machine shop looked like while I was there. I chose to use their drums and their services as I didn't want to do this job again.
They balanced everything and made sure that I would all work perfectly.
So were they a bit more money. Sure. Did I make an investment in my transmission so I won't have future problems. Yes!! Remember Machine work is expensive. Bad machine work is way more expensive.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9508
My Transmission broke a triple gear pin and ended up causing all kinds of issues. The Model T is a very forgiving car until it's not. You can read all about people bandaging their car together using all sorts of trickery. Some good some bad. For me rebuilding the transmission was beyond what I was capable of.
I started researching machine shops and found J&M Machine in MA. When I brought them the transmission John took it apart and magnafluxed the drums. Two of them were cracked. The third was put on a lath so many times that it was extremely thin. So I needed new drums. Not many people make them but J&M does. Comparing their drums to the originals I could see that the J&M ones were very strong. Keep in mind that when using 100 year old parts most things will be worn out. I also got to see what a good machine shop looked like while I was there. I chose to use their drums and their services as I didn't want to do this job again.
They balanced everything and made sure that I would all work perfectly.
So were they a bit more money. Sure. Did I make an investment in my transmission so I won't have future problems. Yes!! Remember Machine work is expensive. Bad machine work is way more expensive.
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Topic author - Posts: 1152
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Re: Quality transmission parts
Hey I’ve read thru the rattles thread. Good stuffMopar_man wrote: ↑Thu Nov 11, 2021 4:20 pmOK here is my 2 cents. I just went down this road You can see what I've done here
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9508
My Transmission broke a triple gear pin and ended up causing all kinds of issues. The Model T is a very forgiving car until it's not. You can read all about people bandaging their car together using all sorts of trickery. Some good some bad. For me rebuilding the transmission was beyond what I was capable of.
I started researching machine shops and found J&M Machine in MA. When I brought them the transmission John took it apart and magnafluxed the drums. Two of them were cracked. The third was put on a lath so many times that it was extremely thin. So I needed new drums. Not many people make them but J&M does. Comparing their drums to the originals I could see that the J&M ones were very strong. Keep in mind that when using 100 year old parts most things will be worn out. I also got to see what a good machine shop looked like while I was there. I chose to use their drums and their services as I didn't want to do this job again.
IMG_4027.jpeg
They balanced everything and made sure that I would all work perfectly.
Balence machine.jpeg
gear weight.jpeg
IMG_4111.jpeg
So were they a bit more money. Sure. Did I make an investment in my transmission so I won't have future problems. Yes!!
Drums.jpeg
Remember Machine work is expensive. Bad machine work is way more expensive.
“Whether you think you can, or think you can’t-you’re right.”
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Re: Quality transmission parts
Bryant
Do be sure to READ it, and more importantly, have your machinist friend read it, too.
A good machinist, if he uses modern machinery practice and does not heed the information contained in that thread from the Ford Factory, will build you a transmission which is theoretically correct upon installation, and actually broken within 100 miles.
It's that important.
Do be sure to READ it, and more importantly, have your machinist friend read it, too.
A good machinist, if he uses modern machinery practice and does not heed the information contained in that thread from the Ford Factory, will build you a transmission which is theoretically correct upon installation, and actually broken within 100 miles.
It's that important.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Topic author - Posts: 1152
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Re: Quality transmission parts
I definitely will pass it on to him also. I trust him fully. He is retired now but dose custom work for people. Some of his work is inside the Hubble telescope, and various rocket parts for the gov. His true love is centered around old Harley Davidson motorcycles. So much talent. Thanks for your input it is much appreciatedScott_Conger wrote: ↑Thu Nov 11, 2021 4:57 pmBryant
Do be sure to READ it, and more importantly, have your machinist friend read it, too.
A good machinist, if he uses modern machinery practice and does not heed the information contained in that thread from the Ford Factory, will build you a transmission which is theoretically correct upon installation, and actually broken within 100 miles.
It's that important.
“Whether you think you can, or think you can’t-you’re right.”
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Re: Quality transmission parts
It sounds as though your friend and I travelled in the same circles
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Re: Quality transmission parts
I found the Transmission videos by Mike Bender to be very helpful.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCz9Cs_ ... d6e-WMvuRQ
John
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCz9Cs_ ... d6e-WMvuRQ
John
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Re: Quality transmission parts
Thank you sirJohn Illinois wrote: ↑Fri Nov 12, 2021 8:35 amI found the Transmission videos by Mike Bender to be very helpful.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCz9Cs_ ... d6e-WMvuRQ
John
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Re: Quality transmission parts
Bryant,
Glad to know you have a super machinist to help...
Just a word to the wise once again...IGNORE the Ford specification of 0.002" 'clearance'. Ignore the Ford caution 'worn out at 0.005"'.
You need to shoot for 0.0035 total between the pin and live with size to 'over' in the 4th decimal place. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Make sure to face the bushes to 010" and not leave as stock. Make sure you insert and seat the pins from the right side. Make sure the oil grove in the bush is full and not just a scratch in the bronze.
All of this is in the book, but make yourself post-its...its not just 'only a T'. Done right and driven right that 0035" will take your lifetime and then some to grow past 0.005". Done too tight or to original Ford specs...and those who warn know...your chances of swallowing the rebuild in early mileage go astronomical.
If your friend would like to know design 'maximum material condition' and 'minimal material condition' range charts made from Ford original drawings...drop me a note...most folks don't understand them so I won't confuse here, but if your friend is that saavy...I'm here.
Glad to know you have a super machinist to help...
Just a word to the wise once again...IGNORE the Ford specification of 0.002" 'clearance'. Ignore the Ford caution 'worn out at 0.005"'.
You need to shoot for 0.0035 total between the pin and live with size to 'over' in the 4th decimal place. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Make sure to face the bushes to 010" and not leave as stock. Make sure you insert and seat the pins from the right side. Make sure the oil grove in the bush is full and not just a scratch in the bronze.
All of this is in the book, but make yourself post-its...its not just 'only a T'. Done right and driven right that 0035" will take your lifetime and then some to grow past 0.005". Done too tight or to original Ford specs...and those who warn know...your chances of swallowing the rebuild in early mileage go astronomical.
If your friend would like to know design 'maximum material condition' and 'minimal material condition' range charts made from Ford original drawings...drop me a note...most folks don't understand them so I won't confuse here, but if your friend is that saavy...I'm here.
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Re: Quality transmission parts
In the effort to ever improve my motor building skills, I would be interested in any new info or specs. Surely there are others interested also. Those that its beyond can skip it. I would encourage you to post it, If its not too difficult. Thanks.George Mills wrote: ↑Fri Nov 12, 2021 2:02 pmBryant,
Glad to know you have a super machinist to help...
Just a word to the wise once again...IGNORE the Ford specification of 0.002" 'clearance'. Ignore the Ford caution 'worn out at 0.005"'.
You need to shoot for 0.0035 total between the pin and live with size to 'over' in the 4th decimal place. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Make sure to face the bushes to 010" and not leave as stock. Make sure you insert and seat the pins from the right side. Make sure the oil grove in the bush is full and not just a scratch in the bronze.
All of this is in the book, but make yourself post-its...its not just 'only a T'. Done right and driven right that 0035" will take your lifetime and then some to grow past 0.005". Done too tight or to original Ford specs...and those who warn know...your chances of swallowing the rebuild in early mileage go astronomical.
If your friend would like to know design 'maximum material condition' and 'minimal material condition' range charts made from Ford original drawings...drop me a note...most folks don't understand them so I won't confuse here, but if your friend is that saavy...I'm here.
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Topic author - Posts: 1152
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Re: Quality transmission parts
Thanks! Scott sent over an older thread on the subject. i read thru it and feel its very helpful i went ahead and printed it out for my ever growing information pile! I've got so much info i have smoke coming out of my ears 

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