Torque tube flange question

[Reno Speedster]

I am working on cutting down my torque tube and have some comments a question about the flange. I cut the flange off and am going to turn it to fit the tube so I can weld it back on. The first thing I noticed is just how rough the machining is on the flange. The central hole in the flange appears to have been broached in, very roughly and slightly off center to the forging. This is making it very difficult to center the flange in the lathe. The lathe work on the original part is very rough with large tool marks. The torque tube was welded on the flange slightly off center.

My question concerns a ring or lip on the outside of the flange (see below). This ring keeps the flange from bolting flush to the spool. It looks like it should go around the spool but it does not on any of the spools I have. I am using a new adjustable spool. So, dose this ring serve a purpose? Do I need it, or can I just machine it off?

[kmatt2]

The flange you show with the lip is for the pre 1920-21 closed driveshaft spool. The spool in your picture is the 1921-27 open type. You can grind off the flange lip and your spool will work if your rear axel housings take a open spool.

[Reno Speedster]

Great, thanks. My car is a 26, so it takes the open type. This is the only torque tube I have up here. The rest are down in Nevada. So, I will turn the rim off an use it.

[jab35]

Morgan: If you plan to use the funprojects tapered roller bearing kit for the pinion end of the drive shaft, take a few thousandths out of the bore at the flange end of the tube so the bearing locking collar screw head clears the inside diameter of the tube. jb

[Reno Speedster]

Thanks for the tip. Easy to do while it’s off.