Starter Switches (3 different ones)

[BLB27]

I have three different starter switches. The first photo shows all three. The one on the left is out of my 1927 coupe. The middle one is a T5014RE and the one on the right is a T5014. The next three photos show the back side of each, and the last one is the 1927 taken apart.

I would appreciate comments on the condition of the old switch. Any general comments on the other two would also be appreciated.

My tentative plan is to use the T5014RE. However, I have thought about using the insulating washers from the T5014 to rehab the old one, that is why I would appreciate comments on the overall condition of the 1927. Is it restorable??

The coupe hasn't been run in 62 years, so I don't remember if or how the starter worked back then. The plunger seems to work OK. I will start reassembling the coupe as soon as the rear axle restoration is complete.

[Dropacent]

If those were my 3 choices, I’d give the one on the right to someone you don’t really care for much. I’d keep the middle one in your tool box in the remote chance you might need a spare. Better than nothing. On the one to the left, I’d turn the bottom bolts 180 degrees, clean up, and use for the rest of your life. JMHO of course.

[RajoRacer]

I agree with Tim on the subject - hard to beat an early original switch !

[TRDxB2]

The most recent posting covers all three. Pitch the old one, as it is what caused the issues and related discussions in purchasing either of the repro's
The important issue is that the repro plungers need to depressed downward. Anything that might cause them to rock forward needs to be eliminated. Too large a hole in the floorboard. Use of the extender tube unnecessarily (only need to be depressed about 1/4"-1/2")
https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=28588
LOL

--
--

[Dropacent]

Pitch the old ones my way, please. Glad to pay for them + postage.

[speedytinc]

I agree with Tim on the subject - hard to beat an early original switch !

I 3rd third opinion. Rebuild the original one. It will last another 90 years.

[speedytinc]

Pitch the old ones my way, please. Glad to pay for them + postage.

I would rassle you for em if I wasnt able to pick them up @ swap meets for under $5.

[jiminbartow]

Frank. If my sight is not deceiving me, it appears that several of the tabs are broken on your repro button. As you know, those tabs keep the top round piece tight against the base so the 2 upper contacts make good contact with the 2 lower contacts and do not push the lower contacts away. If you cannot make new tabs and a good contact cannot be achieved, it is trash, but you may be able the drill two holes in the spaces between the contacts all the way through and tap the two holes in the base and screw two machine screws through to keep the halves together. You can solder that broken piece back on to level the contact halves out.

Bruce, I personally have an original switch that has never caused any trouble and probably never will. The great thing about it is that, since it is kept together with screws instead of bent tabs, it can be easily rebuilt as many times as you want. Either of the three types will work, but in answer to your question, the original one is the best, just be sure you lightly sand and clean the contacts and install good, fresh, fiber insulating washers around the two base contact bolt studs to make good contact and prevent grounding. Jim Patrick

[Original Smith]

As far as I know there are two designs of Ford switches. The take apart variety, and the tab type. I rebuilt an early one for my car which was perfect in every way. I also installed the extension on top, and installed it in my '25 runabout, and the extension wouldn't come through the floor far enough to be of any use. I wound up using a NORS switch, which is on the car to this day.

[Dan Hatch]

Use the old one to control a solenoid off a 49-52 Ford truck. Never have another problem.

Tape a quarter to each one of the new ones and throw as far as you can.
When someone finds them they will have a quarter.

[BLB27]

I am still considering restoring the 1927 starter switch. I have several questions and thoughts about doing it.

#1 I am thinking of using the insulation washers from the T5014 to replace the ones shown in the first photo.

#2 There are insulating washers under the contacts shown in the second photo, and I would replace those also. Actually, there are three insulating washers on the stud as shown in the third photo. The middle washer fits in the "hole" in the switch base plate. It appears to be in good condition. Someone said the contacts should be rotated 180 degrees, and I will do that.

#3 I assume there is an insulating piece under contact plate. I am pointing to it with the ice pick in the fourth photo. It might be "U" shaped and not flat. I don't want to get into replacing that. Any comments on whether or not it should be replaced? The contact plate appears to be "layer" and not a single piece.

#4 There also looks like there is an insulating ring under the end of the plunger rod as shown in the fourth and fifth photo. I also don't want to get into replacing that. Any comments on whether or not it should be replaced?

[NY John T]

Here's a starter switch that was sitting outside for years on a rusting frame. I took it apart and restored it and it works perfectly. The original stuff was made of much higher quality materials all around. I would use the originals every time.
John

[RajoRacer]

You want to take your Dremel tool with a sanding drum onto the contact points.

[John kuehn]

When replacing the fiber washers always remember the copper bolts HAVE to be in the center and not touch the sides of the hole in the switch frame they go through.The larger Ace hardware stores or any well stocked hardware store has fiber or hardened rubber washers that can be modified to have a good fit for the centering washer. You can carefully use a chainsaw round file to enlarge the center hole of the washer for a good fit and then carefully sand or cut it down if you have to on the outside. Take your time on the centering washer as it’s the most important. Then use fiber washers on either side and you should be OK.
Hope this can be of help.

[TRDxB2]

I am still considering restoring the 1927 starter switch. I have several questions and thoughts about doing it.

....
#4 There also looks like there is an insulating ring under the end of the plunger rod as shown in the fourth and fifth photo. I also don't want to get into replacing that. Any comments on whether or not it should be replaced?

Think about this. If that insulation should ever fail what could possible happen? The plunger is in effect completing a circuit: positive voltage passing through it to a metal housing grounded to your chassis while your the sole of your footwear (insulated material?) is pressing down on the plunger while your hands are in contact with the throttle and/or spark levers (grounded!).
Best to leave it alone or replace the plunger rod with some no conductive material.

[Dropacent]

Bruce, all this starter switch talk got me to spend a couple hours putting some together last night. Out of 4, I had enough really good parts to assemble 3 with some good stuff left over. These original ford starter switches used vulcanized paper insulators. There are modern things that will do the same, and better to be safe than sorry and have to redo it. Check it with a meter and that will tell you if in good shape.
Now, since starter switches are being discussed, I noticed something last night. On all 4 I had in front of me, the inner nut on the bottom was BRASS followed by a lock washer, then the cable ,and finally a STEEL nut on top. So FoMoCo in their wisdom used a steel nut to cap things off. Was it a $$ savings or because of wanting the nut tight? Perhaps tighter than a brass nut could be drawn before failing. If you laugh about the cost factor, maybe using a steel nut over brass saved a part of a cent…….take that part of a cent and multiply by millions, you have some real money! So, note the spot where the cable gets installed, and also the small FORD script proudly stamped on these nice starter buttons. Look close on yours, every one of mine has it.

[Dropacent]

You want the lock washer between the brass nut and the cable lug.

[lirogo27]

Timely discussion. I just posted starter switch questions a week and change ago! All this looks familiar!

[speedytinc]

Bruce, all this starter switch talk got me to spend a couple hours putting some together last night. Out of 4, I had enough really good parts to assemble 3 with some good stuff left over. These original ford starter switches used vulcanized paper insulators. There are modern things that will do the same, and better to be safe than sorry and have to redo it. Check it with a meter and that will tell you if in good shape.
Now, since starter switches are being discussed, I noticed something last night. On all 4 I had in front of me, the inner nut on the bottom was BRASS followed by a lock washer, then the cable ,and finally a STEEL nut on top. So FoMoCo in their wisdom used a steel nut to cap things off. Was it a $$ savings or because of wanting the nut tight? Perhaps tighter than a brass nut could be drawn before failing. If you laugh about the cost factor, maybe using a steel nut over brass saved a part of a cent…….take that part of a cent and multiply by millions, you have some real money! So, note the spot where the cable gets installed, and also the small FORD script proudly stamped on these nice starter buttons. Look close on yours, every one of mine has it. 376E16A7-5802-456C-93BF-49BDC5785E9B.jpeg8BE48F5B-ED91-4E3E-8F54-8D30F4F87145.jpeg3B3AD655-F5FA-4EC8-A3C5-00F6590BC1F8.jpeg

This is the same nut configuration used on starters. The top steel nut was copper plated.

[jiminbartow]

Bruce. Good decision. You are doing the right thing by restoring and using the original starter foot button. I doubt if there is any insulation in the upper half of the button. The steel shaft inside the plunger is riveted to the button cap, which is connected to the two contacts and making constant contact with the steel casing of the upper portion, so if there was insulation, it would not stop the contact of the 2 steel surfaces (the button shaft to the steel casing), so I would not bother with that or worry about it. You may want to consider bending the tabs of the upper contacts down (toward the lower contacts) a little to introduce a little tension that may have been lost over many years of use, but don’t bend too much. You don’t want it to make contact while still in the up position.

I have noticed that you seem to be replacing a lot of good parts. If you believe that just because a part is old, it should be replaced, please rid yourself of that notion. In most cases, original Ford parts are much better than new repro parts. The original parts were made on the assembly line by experienced Ford workers according to the original Ford design, using better materials and there is something about using the original parts that were installed on the car on the assembly line, by Ford workers 95 years ago and that have traveled with the car from inception, thru some of history’s most important events to now that is very appealing to me and many other T guys and gals. Just something to consider.

You are doing a great job. I especially like your color scheme. While not what was done on the assembly line by Ford, originally, I like the Maroon much more than the green and I’m sure there were cases where Ford buyers, back then, placed special orders with the Ford dealer for colors other than green, just like ordering bare wooden spokes instead of black. Jim Patrick