I used a punch to make a mark on edge of each of the individual leaves before I separated them, so that I could reassemble them in the same position. Unfortunately, I can not see these marks now after having painted them.
I will try to place the leaves in the original position by matching the end of each to the wear pattern on the leave below. If some of the leaves are not in the original position, is that a problem?
Also, is it a problem if the assembled spring is installed 180 degrees from its original position in the cross member?
Reinstalling the Front and Rear Springs
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Re: Reinstalling the Front and Rear Springs
I like your cautious intent, but I never did that nor ever heard of anyone who did that. As long as you put the leafs together in the right order and the center holes are properly lined up, the position of the front and back of the leafs doesn’t matter. After painting each leaf, gloss black, coat with slip paint and immediately assemble. When you have them assembled, while the slip paint is still wet, Wipe off slip paint from all sides of the assembled springs with mineral spirits and let dry. Patrick
Last edited by jiminbartow on Thu Aug 04, 2022 12:15 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Reinstalling the Front and Rear Springs
Springs don't have a front and back, so 180º should be no problem.
The inevitable often happens.
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Re: Reinstalling the Front and Rear Springs
I use the centre punch trick too, especially on the back springs. Multiple curves in the leaves sit better in known positions. Front springs don't matter so much, although the centre hole is not quite centre in some, and the wear marks may not match up.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
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Re: Reinstalling the Front and Rear Springs
Lastly, don't forget the spring pad over the top leaf, prior to placing in the crossmember.
And be sure the crossmember channel isn't spread out over years, (esp. the front crossmember) as the spring stack should be snug in the channel, without any wiggle, needs to be secure there. Most times a mallet strike to seat the spring up there, or clamps are useful too for pulling the spring snug in place.
And be sure the crossmember channel isn't spread out over years, (esp. the front crossmember) as the spring stack should be snug in the channel, without any wiggle, needs to be secure there. Most times a mallet strike to seat the spring up there, or clamps are useful too for pulling the spring snug in place.
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
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Re: Reinstalling the Front and Rear Springs
Since you have lost your marks, don’t worry one bit about it. As I said, there is no difference between the front and back of each leaf. Jim Patrick
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Re: Reinstalling the Front and Rear Springs
the best riding T is one which has had (among other things) the wear marks removed and can no longer be seen. It's one of many small things which add up to a T in which the passenger says "gee this thing rides nice, I wish mine rode this well". It's cumulative myriad of tiny details which make the difference.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured