Resume Driving Model T

[mjones125]

I have a 1915 Touring that has been garage kept. The car was last driven 3 years ago at which time there were no issues with the car. I plan to resume driving the car and would like recommendations on general maintenance that I should do before starting and driving the car again for the first time after setting idle for the last 3 years. Thanks for all information.

Mike

[Scott_Conger]

you can do as much or as little as you wish...here is a good read for the "much" category: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/8538.html

for the "little" category, at the very least, hand crank the engine a few times a day for a couple days. This will oil up the rods at the very least.

[John kuehn]

Was the gas tank and radiator drained during that time? Also if the radiator wasn’t drained check the oil to see if there is any water in it. Sometimes over time the head gasket may leak. If gas was still in the tank you may need to remove it to clean up the the residue that’s left in it.
Make sure the timer is cleaned up and the coils still work. T’s are like any other older water cooled engines. If it was running before it set up and the radiator had antifreeze in it it should be OK. Check the oil level and turn the engine over and over to get the bearings lubed up.
I’ve found with my starter equipped T’s that haven’t been run in a good while to crank the engine a few times with the key off and choke it.
Then turn the key on and the start it. It’s starts pretty quick when it’s done that way. You may can do the same thing with your non starter T and save a lot of hand cranking.

You probably know this already but all Model T’s are a little different in some way when starting it. Maybe not much but enough to be a little different in some way. Good luck.

[Norman Kling]

Unless your carburetor was drained, you might have some problems with it. Old gas tends to solidify or at least get thick like syrup So you might get lucky, or you might need to take off the carb and clean it and blow out all the passages. If it will run as is, it might smooth out as you drive it and new gas passes through.
Other than that, if the fluid levels are OK you might not need anything but to drive. However if the water level has dropped, you need to find out where it went. Sometimes it leaks where you don't suspect, such as into the oil sump or behind the manifold through cracks or freeze plugs.
I would suggest you drain and replace all the fluids and put in new. When you drain the oil, look for water in it.
Best way to store a car if you know it will be parked a long time is to drain all fluids first and then replace them when you get ready to run again.
Norm

[Norman Kling]

A few years ago, I brought in a T from a friend. The car had been stored 20 years. The woman who owned it said that they were driving along on a tour and the engine made a "loud" noise, so it was stored at a friends house. They had another T, so it was stored a long time, and then her husband passed away. They needed to take the car out of the storage place so it was towed to my house. The radiator was still full and not rusted! They must have had anti-freeze or rust inhibitor in it. Probably anti-freeze, because it was parked in the mountains where it gets quite a bit colder than down in San Diego.
I had to replace the gas tank and fuel line because it was like epoxy. I was, however, to clean the carburetor. Had to replace the battery. I changed the oil. it had an older New Day Timer which was fine. I tuned the coils and it ran fine.
The big noise was the exhaust pipe had come off the manifold! Engine ran and also the transmission. While we had it, we replaced the top and the wheels and added a Ruckstell and Rocky Mountain brakes. I adjusted the rods and now she has a running T.
Norm

[TXGOAT2]

I would take the spark plugs out and put a tablespoonful of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder. Look at each plug for any evidence of rust. Keep them in order removed for reference. Raise the front of car abvout 8" off the floor and remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the oil into a clean container and examine it for any evidence of water or coolant. Note the amount of oil drained. Be sure radiator is full of water or coolant. I would drain any fuel out of the gas tank and carburetor into a clean container and note its condition. If it is stale, dispose of it and replace it with 3 gallons of fresh fuel with a pint of B-12 Chemtool added. Replace battery, if present, with new, fully charged battery. If drained oil looks OK, replace it with a like amount of fresh 5W30 oil and crank the engine rapidly by hand with ignition off and spark plugs out. Replace plugs, then crank engine by hand and observe compression. If good, leave fuel shut off and crank engine with ignition on and listen for coil action and check spark at plugs. If good, move car outside and turn gas on and open carburetor drain to check for fuel flow. If good, close drain and wait 1 minute to see if carburetor floods. If OK, proceed to start car normally.

[Original Smith]

A stock Model T doesn't care how long it sits. Just go ahead and start it like you drove it yesterday.

[TXGOAT2]

Green gasoline rots. Ignition points oxidize. Batteries die and rot. Roller timers gum up. Rings and valves can stick. Other than that, I agree.