Apco spring loaded ball cap adjustment.

[bobt]

How much play should I have on the Apco spring loaded ball cap on the pitman arm connection when turning the steering wheel back and forth? How do you adjust the tension? My screw won't turn on the car. Should I remove the unit and inspect it? Thanks, bobt

[Humblej]

The point of the APCO cap is to remove the play, so it needs adjusting and or the little thrust cap on the spring is worn or missing. Yes, take it apart inspect, clean, adjust, and lube.

[TWrenn]

Just an unsolicited opinion, but why not get rid of that aftermarket thing, fix what needs fixed, maybe even use a shim and go on your way. To me, those are just something else to go wrong. I'm sure like water pumps, there are those who swear by them, and those who swear at them!

[John kuehn]

I don’t know the history of your T but after almost 100 years the front end is in some way worn out. It’s not all that difficult to remove the the front axle as a unit and replace all the bushings and worn ball parts.

The best and easiest way to check your front end to see what’s worn or just worn out is to jack the front axle completely off the ground. Place jack stands under the frame rails near the front.
With the front end off the ground move the wheels slowly back and forth and you’ll discover there is more wear than you think! Use the steering wheel first then move each wheel by it self. You may be in for a surprise of the looseness you’ll feel.

When all the bushings and worn tie rod ends are repaired it makes a T drive easier and more responsive. The parts if needed are available from the vendors. Lang’s has a supply of good used and NOS parts they don’t list. I replaced a worn tie rod ball connection with a NOS part they had. It made a big difference.

[TWrenn]

And not only all your good advice John also he needs to check the top and bottom openings of each yoke. So often the top hole is wallered and the bottom threads are shot. That's pretty much what I was insinuating, along with your comments, just too lazy to go into all the specifics!! Figured he should know.

[RVA23T]

Langs states to tighten until it binds and then back out. Gonna txt you as well

[TXGOAT2]

The spring loaded device is not intended to be screwed tight. If it's in good condition, I'd back it off at least 1 or two turns, maybe a little more if the ball is a little out of round. Badly worn parts need replaced. Many 1940s and 1950s cars with independent suspension used a similar spring loaded joints in the track rod, and quite a few drag links on straight axle cars had spring loaded joints at one or both ends. If adjusted properly, well-greased, and not excessively worn, they worked great. The Apco joint should not show any free play, and only very limited play if the steering wheel is tuned forcefully with the wheels on the ground.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

How much play should I have on the Apco spring loaded ball cap on the pitman arm connection when turning the steering wheel back and forth? How do you adjust the tension? My screw won't turn on the car. Should I remove the unit and inspect it? Thanks, bobt

There should be no play. Trust the directions of those who sell or manufacture these and not the opinions of those here.

[TXGOAT2]

Apco adjustment:

"Hello Carl, you will want to get a good spring presure on the ball. You can turn it all that way down untill you bind the spring up and then back it out a few full turn or just kind of guess by how hard it is to turn the plug when you put it in"

(Lang's catalog)

[TRDxB2]

How much play should I have on the Apco spring loaded ball cap on the pitman arm connection when turning the steering wheel back and forth? How do you adjust the tension? My screw won't turn on the car. Should I remove the unit and inspect it? Thanks, bobt

-How much play should I have on the Apco spring loaded ball cap on the pitman arm connection when turning the steering wheel back and forth?
_Think this has been sufficiently answered & opinionated.
-How do you adjust the tension?
_Remove the cotter pin and turn the screw counter clockwise. Best to use a thick washer in the slot (may need to grind down the washer sides)
-My screw won't turn on the car. Should I remove the unit and inspect it?
_Use you must do this! If the screw wouldn't turn like its either in all the way or rusted in place. Some older repro screws were pot metal good ones brass, new repro steel. The disk inside may be worn & or the balls connected to the drag link. Also inspect the opening when attached to the drag link to be round O vs elongated () looking. I grease with disk brake pad grease - its a high pressure water proof silicon that is sticky and will not dilute when it get wet

[Scott_Conger]

Jerry

that which you speak of is heresy!

[Stephen_heatherly]

The plug should be screwed in until it bottoms out and then backed out just enough to get the cotter pin in. Even when using the APCO caps, it's important to use a pitman arm and tie rod ball where the balls are still round. If you use balls that are overly egg shaped, the ball can bind in the socket when turning and cause the drag link to become bent. If your APCO caps are original ones, the screw plug is likely pot metal and should be removed and replaced with new steel parts. I would suggest taking them completely apart. Inspect the ball, drag link, cup and spring. Replace the worn parts as needed. As others have suggested, it would be wise to remove and rebuild the whole front axle assembly. You will likely find several other issues if you do.

Stephen

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Jerry

that which you speak of is heresy!

I'll likely be burned at the stake, if we can all agree on what type of wood will be best, should the stake be painted or varnished, what kind of rope to use, and what kind of accelerant to apply.

[Rich P. Bingham]

. . . Trust the directions of those who sell or manufacture. . .

Ain't never read a manual 'cuz that's like cheatin', he don't mind the grease on his hands while he's eatin'.

[TWrenn]

. . . Trust the directions of those who sell or manufacture. . .

Ain't never read a manual 'cuz that's like cheatin', he don't mind the grease on his hands while he's eatin'.

And we don't ask fer directions let alone read a road map either do we Rich!! We'd rather drive "round 'n round" for hours first!

[Craig Leach]

Directions & instructions are for the women to use. If we use them they are called corrections.
Craig.

[bobt]

Ok. I removed the APCO spring loaded ball cap from my 1915 and everything was in there (spring and cup) but the adjusting plug / screw was frozen and wouldn't budge even with a hand impact driver. The other one appears to be fine. A NEW one from Lang's is on the way. Thank's guys. bobt

[TXGOAT2]

Soak the old one in pickling vinegar for a few days.

[Scott_Conger]

Bobt

if you have a propane torch, MAPP gas, or acetylene torch, you can heat the housing to dull red and let it cool. Generally this will break things apart. If the screw portion doesn't completely free up, it will almost certainly at least move a little. At this point, applying penetrating oil into the threads, or soaking in vinegar as mentioned will finish the job.

I am not a fan of most accessory gee-gaws, but do believe in the APCO tie-rod and radius-rod caps. They really do the job and unlike anti-rattlers, etc, do not damage things while in use. Just don't horse the things down...those super-strong springs should take the "jolts" but not overly bind the ball into the socket, and for sure, GREASE them regularly.

Have fun.

[TXGOAT2]

A double Apco-style joint at the pitman arm would be ideal. It would require a special drag link with a socket on one end for a spring and cup, and use the Apco cap, spring, and cup on the other side of the ball. That would allow some limited shock absorption in both directions while providing automatic wear take up and improved grease capacity. If the cups were made to fit their sockets like a piston, with each having a small orifice or groove, keeping the joint full of grease would provide some hydraulic damping.