Smoking generator

[Arbs]

Just put a new coolant outlet on, filled up the radiator and ran the engine as a test. After about 3-4 minutes I smelled burning and noticed the generator was smoking. (video here) I killed everything and now I'm wondering what went wrong. I didn't notice this when I last parked the T about a week ago.

Any thoughts as to why this would occur now? Is a smoking generator a dead generator?

Thanks for your help.

[TRDxB2]

Can you be a bit more specific as to what you are referring to as the cooling outlet you put on: the Engine or the radiator top/bottom. You may have shorted some headlight wires. Also need to know what type of cut-out (diode or solenoid) or Voltage Regulator is sitting on top of the generator

[Arbs]

Can you be a bit more specific as to what you are referring to as the cooling outlet you put on: the Engine or the radiator top/bottom. You may have shorted some headlight wires. Also need to know what type of cut-out (diode or solenoid) or Voltage Regulator is sitting on top of the generator

I guess I did alot more than what I initially said when I think of it.

In total, I pulled a waterpump, flushed the radiator and block. Than added a new lower inlet (pipe, hose, etc) on the engine, and a new top outlet on the engine (the old one was cracked). I changed the belt to a smaller one and adjusted the fan to run further away from the timer as the old belt was frayed from rubbing the timer. I did pull a horn off because it wasn't working and I'm planning on rebuilding or replacing it. I installed an oil screen in the inspection plate and replaced a missing top cover on the coil box. I was busier than I initially recollected.

I took a photo of the VR/solenoid on the generator, I hope this helps.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Your generator is not smoking. The smoke is coming from the cutout. Did it begin to smoke while the engine was running, or after you shut it off? I'm guessing it was after you shut it off. Most likely, the cutout points were stuck shut. If you had looked at your ammeter it was probably pegged to Discharge.

Since this didn't go on for long, I suspect your generator is probably okay.

[Arbs]

Your generator is not smoking. The smoke is coming from the cutout. Did it begin to smoke while the engine was running, or after you shut it off? I'm guessing it was after you shut it off. Most likely, the cutout points were stuck shut. If you had looked at your ammeter it was probably pegged to Discharge.

Since this didn't go on for long, I suspect your generator is probably okay.

It started while it was running and I smelled a plastic/rubber melting smell. I was running on magneto at the time.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Your generator is not smoking. The smoke is coming from the cutout. Did it begin to smoke while the engine was running, or after you shut it off? I'm guessing it was after you shut it off. Most likely, the cutout points were stuck shut. If you had looked at your ammeter it was probably pegged to Discharge.

Since this didn't go on for long, I suspect your generator is probably okay.

It started while it was running and I smelled a plastic/rubber melting smell.

Either way, your cutout is toast... toasted. Don't run the car again until you either have a new cutout or you ground the generator output terminal or else you will have a smoking generator.

[speedytinc]

Thats one of those very low quality cutouts that kill generators. You need a good quality diode cutout. Do not run the motor without the output post grounded until you get a working cutout.

[Kerry]

The generator can do a melt down if the battery circuit has failed.

[Arbs]

ok, thanks for hopefully saving my generator

I assume the post on the left (based on my photo) of the cutout is what needs to be grounded, correct?

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

ok, thanks for hopefully saving my generator

I assume the post on the left (based on my photo) of the cutout is what needs to be grounded, correct?

Yes. Correct.

Disconnect the battery wire, on the right side of the cutout and wrap it in electrical tape, (it's "hot" and you don't want it to short to ground).
Then, run a wire from the terminal you've circled, directly to ground. (Using one of the cutout mounting screws as your ground connection would be handy, since you will have removed the cutout and thrown it away already.) You can now run the engine without damaging your generator. Obviously, you won't be charging your battery anymore until you get a new cutout.

[Arbs]

ok, thanks for hopefully saving my generator

I assume the post on the left (based on my photo) of the cutout is what needs to be grounded, correct?

Yes. Correct.

Disconnect the battery wire, on the right side of the cutout and wrap it in electrical tape, (it's "hot" and you don't want it to short to ground).
Then, run a wire from the terminal you've circled, directly to ground. (Using one of the cutout mounting screws as your ground connection would be handy, since you will have removed the cutout and thrown it away already.) You can now run the engine without damaging your generator. Obviously, you won't be charging your battery anymore until you get a new cutout.

Thanks again! You guys are the best. After the change I was able to do my cooling test with no issues. Now I'm off to find a new cutout.

[Luke]

Thanks again! You guys are the best. After the change I was able to do my cooling test with no issues. Now I'm off to find a new cutout.

Or better still make yourself a regulator: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25609

As you'll come to realise there are certain quirks about Model T's, and their owners, that will become well known to you over time. These include (but are not limited to!) water pump or not, 12v or 6v, regulator or cutout (and type of cutout), how to set coils by eye or ear or crank or 'scope, which timer to use, what bands to use, tyres...

... so far you've struck water pumps and now cutouts, and have had a brush with timers + coils - well done on chewing through the list so early on and yet still talking to us all

Luke.

[Arbs]

As you'll come to realise there are certain quirks about Model T's, and their owners, that will become well known to you over time. These include (but are not limited to!) water pump or not, 12v or 6v, regulator or cutout (and type of cutout), how to set coils by eye or ear or crank or 'scope, which timer to use, what bands to use, tyres...

... so far you've struck water pumps and now cutouts, and have had a brush with timers + coils - well done on chewing through the list so early on and yet still talking to us all

Luke.

I just need a Marvel Mystery Oil debate and I get BINGO!

Seriously, this has been fun and I'm learning a great deal. The folks here have been very tolerant of my newbie questions.

[TXGOAT2]

If your T is difficult to crank on cool Fall mornings, drain off a pint of motor oil and replace it with a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil.

[TRDxB2]

ok, thanks for hopefully saving my generator

I assume the post on the left (based on my photo) of the cutout is what needs to be grounded, correct?

NO ,it is connected to the generator and is what outputs the voltage , never connect to anything. The mounting screws that are holding the cutout to the generator are grounding the base & cover of the cutout (see the insulation under the keft nut and between the base & solenoid) so don't ever have any wiring touching.
The cutout is an electronic switch, the one you have uses a solenoid to open/close depending on voltage flow. When the generator is producing more voltage than the battery it closes, when it outputs less or when the car is shut off it opens and disconnects the battery from the generator in order to prevent the battery running like a motor.
Your cutout is the best design for converting it to a diode type. The picture below is an example. About every T supplier sells the diode. There is also the pricey Nu-Rex neg ground that specs out to 20amps but you would never want to out put more than 10amps from the third brush and in most cases don't need to especially if you use LED bulbs. Production of Voltage Regulators ended when Birdhaven purchased FunProjects who made many Model T accessory improvements

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

ok, thanks for hopefully saving my generator

I assume the post on the left (based on my photo) of the cutout is what needs to be grounded, correct?

NO ,it is connected to the generator and is what outputs the voltage , never connect to anything. The mounting screws that are holding the cutout to the generator are grounding the base & cover of the cutout (see the insulation under the keft nut and between the base & solenoid) so don't ever have any wiring touching.
The cutout is an electronic switch, the one you have uses a solenoid to open/close depending on voltage flow. When the generator is producing more voltage than the battery it closes, when it outputs less or when the car is shut off it opens and disconnects the battery from the generator in order to prevent the battery running like a motor.
Your cutout is the best design for converting it to a diode type. The picture below is an example. About every T supplier sells the diode. There is also the pricey Nu-Rex neg ground that specs out to 20amps but you would never want to out put more than 10amps from the third brush and in most cases don't need to especially if you use LED bulbs. Production of Voltage Regulators ended when Birdhaven purchased FunProjects who made many Model T accessory improvements

YES!!! Before you comment, read the entire thread! He's running without his cutout, since it burned up. He was instructed to ground the generator to prevent it from burning out as he continues to run the engine!

[Art M]

Luke,
Don't forget oil type, brand, etc.

Art Mirtes

[TRDxB2]

ok, thanks for hopefully saving my generator

I assume the post on the left (based on my photo) of the cutout is what needs to be grounded, correct?

NO ,it is connected to the generator and is what outputs the voltage , never connect to anything.

YES!!! Before you comment, read the entire thread! He's running without his cutout, since it burned up. He was instructed to ground the generator to prevent it from burning out as he continues to run the engine!

I read the entire thread several times - first to ID if he had a diode, solenoid cutout or a VR. I totally agree with your instructions if he is to take the cutout out of the system. There were some discussion in the past where the need to ground the cutout was noted and I was reacting to the first one liner which seemed out of context. I apologize for the confusion

[Novice]

Looking at the photo of the cut out. the lower coil wire going to the terminal lug has been hot and is discolored. The terminal where the coil wire is connected seems to be corroded which will cause the wire to get hot. You may be able to clean up the terminal / wire and re solder the connection with good 60/40 solder and be good to go. The cut out doesn't look that bad. Once you eliminate the bad terminal connection it should be OK. of course a new cut out would be better but the one you have can probably be repaired with a little effort.

[Luke]

Luke,
Don't forget oil type, brand, etc.

Art Mirtes

Oh, yes Art!

[speedytinc]

Looking at the photo of the cut out. the lower coil wire going to the terminal lug has been hot and is discolored. The terminal where the coil wire is connected seems to be corroded which will cause the wire to get hot. You may be able to clean up the terminal / wire and re solder the connection with good 60/40 solder and be good to go. The cut out doesn't look that bad. Once you eliminate the bad terminal connection it should be OK. of course a new cut out would be better but the one you have can probably be repaired with a little effort.

Trash that cutout. Its a generator killer in waiting on its best day.

[TXGOAT2]

Mobiloil Gargoyle!