Universal grease

[mike zahorik]

I have greased many universal bearings in Model T's over the years and most times, used wheel bearing grease. It occurred to me recently, after opening a ball cap that maybe this is not the type of grease to use. Opening the ball cap revealed that the majority of the wheel bearing grease had spun out onto the ball cap and very little remained on the universal. I had thought that when the engine, etal warmed up the grease would slump down and re lube the universal, but I do not believe that this is happening. Looking into this a little I found that most wheel bearing grease has a rating of NLGI #2, which is rather stiff. I'm considering trying some NLGI #0 grease. This is a much looser grease and should slump down much better to re-lube the universal joint. Has anyone done this? Thanks, Mike

[TXGOAT2]

I think the # 2 grease is commonly used. A fluid grease or gear lube will tend to leak out quickly or run down the driveshaft to the rear axle. A stiff grease is to be avoided. Frequent addition of a few shots or turns of grease will keep the joint well greased. Wheel bearing grease made for modern vehicles probably just fine, but a general purpose # 2 chassis grease will work well. Wheel bearing grease is made to resist heat from brakes, so a GP chassis grease might be a better choice. Any grease will tend to be flung out of the u-joint, so frequent attention is indicated.

[mtntee20]

Mike,

You wrote the grease spun out of the universal joint into the ball cap. Are you filling the ball cap completely with grease? IF you are, then the universal is pretty much completely immersed in a grease bath. The only grease you should have to add is to replace the amount that has leaked/worked out of the ball cap to keep the universal joint lubed. At least, this is my understanding. Members with greater knowledge than I have, will correct or support this.

Good Luck

[mike zahorik]

I agree that a more fluid grease may tend to leak out. I always RTV my Welsh plug so that oil should not transfer between the rear axle and transmission. But it could leak out the ball cap area. I think that I may try it and keep a close eye on the leakage. Maybe I should try a NLGI #1 grease first.

When re installing the rear axle, I always pack the universal joint area with grease as full as I can, but there will inevitability be air pockets here and there. Once the universal joint has a chance to mix the grease all the air pockets will come to the center or the universal joint. I believe that this will result in the same issue. My thinking about the looser grease is that will slump down in the ball cap when the engine stops and re lube the universal joint. Mike

[Norman Kling]

One thing which might help would be to remove the grease fitting and fill with a grease gun, then re-install the grease fitting and then every time you leave for a tour, tighten down the cup to force more grease.
I will caution you also DO NOT use any grease which has molybednum or graphite! If any of those minerals leak into the transmission, they could foul the magneto.
Norm

[TWrenn]

When I pull an engine and re-install I pack the ball cap solid with the red-n-tacky grease, then at pil changes I pump about 25 pumps of it witj my cartridge gun, and a zerc cup from Langs. Seems to work well from.my perspective. I also use it on all the steering gear and radius rod caps.

[mike zahorik]

Norm, you are correct that picking a different grease is important. Not only for the viscosity but the additives. Graphite would definitely damage the magneto. I wonder what Ford originally used? Was it just chassis grease? The rating system was not even a thought in the 1920's, but I bet that chassis grease was close to NLGI #1. I remember my grandfather using cans of cup grease on his car. Mike

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

One of our chapter members who is a bit obsessive about maintenance, mentioned the before every tour, he pumps 30 shots of grease in his u-joint. A few years later, he had a u-joint go bad, (NOT for the lack of greasing!!). He asked me to help in removing the torque tube, u-joint, etc. I addition to his obsessive maintenance program, he was also very fussy about keeping his garage area super clean. With great care, I removed his torque tube. Before I could react, an entire torque tube's worth of semi-liquid grease came spilling out onto his immaculate floor! My heart stood still! He was very gracious and understanding. So anyway, the point is, 30 shots, every tour, is probably too much

[mike zahorik]

Jerry, that brings up a good point. It is difficult to actually see what is in the universal cavity. So keeping an eye on the lube in the ball cap is at best, a guess. I suppose that is why we are pumping in a few squirts time and time again. I suppose that if one would remove the ball cap cover once in a while you could look into the nickel sized hole in the ball and make a judgement, but that requires some work. Not the type of thing a guy wants to do when he wants to hit the road. Mike

[TXGOAT2]

Here's my take: When reassembling a u-joint assembly, make every effort to thoroughly grease up the u joint, just as you would a Timkin wheel bearing, then assemble everything and pump a bunch of grease into the ball. After that, every few hundred miles, give the grease cups 2-4 turns or pump 10 shots or so of grease into the ujoint housing. Ford recommended frequent greasing of the ujoint and rear wheel bearings. Do keep in mind that if the grease is not leaking out as you drive, it is going somewhere, so don't overdo it. It does not evaporate or burn up. Some grease getting into the rear axle will do no harm, but you don't want it on the brakes. I'd want to avoid getting grease into the engine/transmission, since Ts do not like thick oil, and modern grease, or any grease, may cause issues with the transmission bands and the brake band. I like moly grease for ujoints, but I do not use it on my T since it might pollute the engine oil and cause issues as mentioned above. Same with graphite, teflon, etc. Red # 2 chassis grease seems to do a good job.

Old time greases were probably more subject to issues with heat and cold, and many were very waxy and stiff. Some were very gooey and stringy, almost like warm tar. Today's greases are better for most all applications.