What type oil should I use?

Post by **JTT3** » Sun Jan 01, 2023 4:55 pm

Thought I’d be the first to ask in 2023.
I wish everyone a healthy and beau T full year.

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Sun Jan 01, 2023 4:59 pm

Happy New year John!!!
My answer would have been a popular oil I can buy when I'm out on the road, so I don't have to carry many cans.
But I guess I don't need to answer.

Rich

Allan · Post by **Allan** » Sun Jan 01, 2023 5:13 pm

Having spent hours driving the header harvesting wheat, I find Emu oil the most effective.
Happy new year to you all.

Allan from down under.

Post by **TXGOAT2** » Sun Jan 01, 2023 6:07 pm

Boiled castor oil with 20% MMO added, plus a sparkling drop of retsyn.

Post by **Jerry VanOoteghem** » Sun Jan 01, 2023 7:10 pm

Bituminous roofing tar.

Happy New Year!!!!

Burger in Spokane · Post by **Burger in Spokane** » Sun Jan 01, 2023 7:12 pm

It states right there in the manual that you are supposed to
use nothing but water pump oil ! Don't you guys read ?

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Sun Jan 01, 2023 7:30 pm

But I don't have a manual. Mine is Automatic.

Post by **TRDxB2** » Sun Jan 01, 2023 7:40 pm

She likes me to use extra virgin olive oil

Norman Kling · Post by **Norman Kling** » Sun Jan 01, 2023 8:12 pm

Be sure to add some Marvel Mystery Oil and some Coal Oil and some Diesel Oil mix very carefully and fill only till oil runs out the bottom petcock. Then drive for 5 miles and check again. Then add STP until it runs out the top petcock. If the engine is still running, you are lucky!

this subject has been subject to many posts and opinions. All oils sold today sold at Wal-Mart or Auto Zone are better than the best when the T was original manufactured.
I personally use Valvoline 20W30 detergent oil from Walmart. But your choice.
Happy New Years.
Norm

Post by **Steve Jelf** » Sun Jan 01, 2023 9:48 pm

I thought everybody knew this.

Post by **TWrenn** » Mon Jan 02, 2023 12:03 pm

JTT3 wrote: ↑
Sun Jan 01, 2023 4:55 pm
Thought I’d be the first to ask in 2023.
I wish everyone a healthy and beau T full year.

Ha ha John!! Get things stirred up will ya!! Funny. Love ur humor.
Frank, an extra virgin never hurt any guy! Oh..I forgot to type "oil"...my bad!

Post by **JTT3** » Mon Jan 02, 2023 1:12 pm

Jerry thats so strange, while googling the topic I noticed that a well qualified T expert, Hugh Jass, recommended Modified Bitumen in the economy 5 gal. Bucket for a variety of applications. I’m concerned that the modified version is not like Henry used. I’m trying to stay period correct and not bastardizing my T with so called improvements like aluminum pistons, adjustable lifters and new crankshafts.

Post by **TXGOAT2** » Mon Jan 02, 2023 1:21 pm

The local WalMart seems to be moving further away from "conventional" motor oil. The house brand conventional oil is gone, and the synthentic blends seem to be disappearing too. What is left is full synthetic, with the Wal Mart brand being priced very close to the name brands. Low first number grades predominate across the board. At this rate, even 10W30 may soon be gone, leaving 5W and 0W. I doubt that any of this is in response to customer demand.

Post by **Jerry VanOoteghem** » Mon Jan 02, 2023 7:33 pm

JTT3 wrote: ↑
Mon Jan 02, 2023 1:12 pm
Jerry thats so strange, while googling the topic I noticed that a well qualified T expert, Hugh Jass, recommended Modified Bitumen in the economy 5 gal. Bucket for a variety of applications. I’m concerned that the modified version is not like Henry used. I’m trying to stay period correct and not bastardizing my T with so called improvements like aluminum pistons, adjustable lifters and new crankshafts.

That's some important research John! I was wondering if anyone would notice that I was quoting our old and mysterious forum member Hugh Jass. I think only a handful of folks knew his real identity. I did not know who he was, but I always enjoyed his faithful use of Modified bituminous roofing tar. I think the modified version is fine, but only non-detergent grade.

Norman Kling · Post by **Norman Kling** » Mon Jan 02, 2023 8:46 pm

Back about 1970 there was a brand of non detergent oil named "Kling Oil" I was attracted by the name but it was not named for anyone in my family. It was supposed to cling to the rings and keep from burning oil. Later STP claimed to do the same by adding some to the regular oil. I don't think Kling oil is still being made.
Norm

Post by **TXGOAT2** » Mon Jan 02, 2023 9:25 pm

There used to be a belt dressing called "Kling Surface". It came in a yellow and black can with a squirt nozzle. It worked very well on large flat belting.////// ? CORRECTION: It was spelled "Cling Surface". Oh well....

Post by **AndyClary** » Mon Jan 02, 2023 9:48 pm

If you are running a water pump you need to use a lighter oil to make up for the power loss.

Andy

Model T Ron · Post by **Model T Ron** » Mon Jan 02, 2023 11:24 pm

Good Question as we all have opinions but seriously any oil today is better than what our cars got new back in the day.

Kerry · Post by **Kerry** » Tue Jan 03, 2023 1:17 am

Ronald, any oil is better? I don't know about that, I've seen some that think that using hydraulic oil is a good idea

Post by **TRDxB2** » Tue Jan 03, 2023 1:42 am

Norman Kling wrote: ↑
Mon Jan 02, 2023 8:46 pm
Back about 1970 there was a brand of non detergent oil named "Kling Oil" I was attracted by the name but it was not named for anyone in my family. It was supposed to cling to the rings and keep from burning oil. Later STP claimed to do the same by adding some to the regular oil. I don't think Kling oil is still being made.
Norm

The Name "Kling" shows up with respect to several oil several places. One company I believe is Moore and Kling Inc https://americanhistory.si.edu/collecti ... AHTL_32090, I couldn't find much of anything for he Kling Oil Company that made the oil you refereed to other than it may have started in the 1950' https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/ ... 1800310278. Then there is Lubriplate Lubricants Co. which states its 150 years old. https://www.lubriplate.com/
--
The there are the financial Kling's
Oil Price Shocks and Stock-Market Behavior Kling, J.L. (1985) https://www.scirp.org/(S(351jmbntvnsjt1aadkposzje))/reference/referencespapers.aspx?referenceid=1777518
-
Kling's Oil Speculation Question Arnold Kling Jun. 27, 2008 https://seekingalpha.com/article/82990- ... n-question

Model T Ron · Post by **Model T Ron** » Tue Jan 03, 2023 6:24 am

Kerry wrote: ↑
Tue Jan 03, 2023 1:17 am
Ronald, any oil is better? I don't know about that, I've seen some that think that using hydraulic oil is a good idea

You got me.....any 10x30 engine oil

Post by **PDGx** » Tue Jan 03, 2023 8:40 am

I heard that the new CBD oil is supposed to make everything ‘better’.

Post by **TXGOAT2** » Tue Jan 03, 2023 10:14 am

If you have a T coupe in Channel Green, you should select a "Green" motor oil. Check the label carefully before buying! (If you drive a Subaru, use only Patchoulie Oil) Its best to look for an oil labeled "High Mileage" for your T, since most all of them have a lot of miles on them.

Norman Kling · Post by **Norman Kling** » Tue Jan 03, 2023 11:49 am

In that picture posted by TRD the can is the same I used to use. Apparently there was a Kling in the ownership of the oil company. So maybe I am related! My family descended from Johan Ludwig Kling who was a veteran of the Revolutionary War from New York Colony later to become a state. There was another person by the same name who fought in the war who was from Pennsylvania, but no indication we are related unless generations before the revolution. Most of the more recent generations of my family were building contractors and furniture manufacturers, until me.
Norm

Post by **Susanne** » Tue Jan 03, 2023 2:09 pm

Take a 3 gallon feed bucket from your now abandoned horse (Ol' Dobbin won't mind, especially he's now grade A Ponyburger) and fill it 1/4 of the way with freshly harvested asphalt grindings from an old road. Make sure they are from old asphalt roads, as if the asphalt is too fresh, your car will think it is being treated nice and stop working prematurely. Mix in (these measurements must be exact) 728.5 fluid drams (2.693 liters or 4.739 imperial pints) of grade A kerosene, .39 cups of Rinso Soap Flakes, Agitate using a bundle of freshly cut genuine sticks (hickory preferred, although pine or dutch elm may be used), draw off the liquid from the upper 1/2 of the vile mixture, add .34 lbs of carbon black pigment (WARNING - DO NOT USE GRAPHITE!), 4.031 pints of Extra Virgin Soybean Oil, 2 jiggers of pure Michigan branch water, 1.83 cups (0.880 lbs) of genuine 600W steam oil, Re-agitate using genuine Ford (non-spurious) bronze, draw off 3.85 liters and pour into said crankcase.

it is VITAL you keep true and unimeachable records of this process, as any failure of the motor will be attributed to incorrect preparation of said semi-bio-lubricant and ownership of your vehicle and all claims shall revert to the

FORD MOTOR COMPANY
Dearborn, Michigan, USA

Post by **Jerry VanOoteghem** » Tue Jan 03, 2023 4:04 pm

Susanne wrote: ↑
Tue Jan 03, 2023 2:09 pm
Take a 3 gallon feed bucket from your now abandoned horse (Ol' Dobbin won't mind, especially he's now grade A Ponyburger) and fill it 1/4 of the way with freshly harvested asphalt grindings from an old road. Make sure they are from old asphalt roads, as if the asphalt is too fresh, your car will think it is being treated nice and stop working prematurely. Mix in (these measurements must be exact) 728.5 fluid drams (2.693 liters or 4.739 imperial pints) of grade A kerosene, .39 cups of Rinso Soap Flakes, Agitate using a bundle of freshly cut genuine sticks (hickory preferred, although pine or dutch elm may be used), draw off the liquid from the upper 1/2 of the vile mixture, add .34 lbs of carbon black pigment (WARNING - DO NOT USE GRAPHITE!), 4.031 pints of Extra Virgin Soybean Oil, 2 jiggers of pure Michigan branch water, 1.83 cups (0.880 lbs) of genuine 600W steam oil, Re-agitate using genuine Ford (non-spurious) bronze, draw off 3.85 liters and pour into said crankcase.

it is VITAL you keep true and unimeachable records of this process, as any failure of the motor will be attributed to incorrect preparation of said semi-bio-lubricant and ownership of your vehicle and all claims shall revert to the

FORD MOTOR COMPANY
Dearborn, Michigan, USA

Ya, that's basically what I use too.

Post by **TXGOAT2** » Tue Jan 03, 2023 7:13 pm

For the very best in period-correct lubrication for your Model T, don't overlook OLEO for excellent engine protection and smooth as warm butter clutch and band action. For superior lubrication of those parts requiring grease, you can do no better than rich, creamy HIPPOLYTE.

Post by **su8pack1** » Tue Jan 03, 2023 10:55 pm

I've been using 30W non detergent Zurnoil in my Model A since 1963. I still have several 24 can cases I bought in the late seventies which should last me into the next lifetime. It's always preformed great in the A, so I see no problem using it with my newly acquired all original T.

Post by **varmint** » Tue Jan 03, 2023 11:12 pm

The wife named our T as Olivia Hardy (a she) so we use olive oil.

Post by **TXGOAT2** » Wed Jan 04, 2023 9:51 am

If I was using 30W non-detergent in a Model A, I'd add 10% Marvel Mystery Oil by volume. If I was using 30W non-detergent oil in a Model T, I'd add 20% Marvel Mystery Oil by volume. In very cold weather, I'd use 20% Marvel Oil in the Model A, and 25 to 30% in the Model T.

In either case, and in any weather, best results will be had using synthetic 10W30 in the Model A and 5W30 or 10 W 30 in the Model T.

Some straight grade, non-detergent oil sold today is of very low quality.

Ford never recommended 30W for the Model T.

If you want to run period-correct gasoline in your Model T, buy the cheapest straight gasoline you can find, then let it weather in an open container (outdoors) for a a week or so, then add about 15% yellow kerosene. If you cannot obrain yellow kerosene, adding 10% to 15% non-detergent motor oil to the gasoline will give a similar result.

Post by **TXGOAT2** » Wed Jan 04, 2023 9:58 am

RARE Zurnoil For Automobiles - One Gallon Can O. F. Zurn Co ...

Wal Mart lists Wolf's Head motor oil at 16.00 a quart....

Post by **modeltspaz** » Wed Jan 04, 2023 11:49 am

I just heard that Hurk is having a New Year's sale on bituminous roofing tar. Better hurry, it's selling like hotcakes from a manifold griddle cooker.

Post by **TRDxB2** » Wed Jan 04, 2023 12:23 pm

--------------------------------------

Post by **Jerry VanOoteghem** » Wed Jan 04, 2023 12:27 pm

modeltspaz wrote: ↑
Wed Jan 04, 2023 11:49 am
I just heard that Hurk is having a New Year's sale on bituminous roofing tar. Better hurry, it's selling like hotcakes from a manifold griddle cooker.

Noted!

I like to add to that, 2.378% Marvel Mystery Oil, per inch, per degree Kelvin, per quart. (Unless it's a Leap Year naturally.)

Post by **Dallas Landers** » Wed Jan 04, 2023 12:31 pm

I thought casteroil was only for the steering parts? Learn something every day. You guys are full of ............. knowledge!

Post by **TRDxB2** » Wed Jan 04, 2023 1:40 pm

Dallas Landers wrote: ↑
Wed Jan 04, 2023 12:31 pm
I thought casteroil was only for the steering parts? Learn something every day. You guys are full of ............. knowledge!

Your correct, but it must be Jamaican Black based

Post by **John kuehn** » Wed Jan 04, 2023 1:51 pm

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Wed Jan 04, 2023 3:43 pm

Post by **Jerry VanOoteghem** » Wed Jan 04, 2023 4:22 pm

Dallas Landers wrote: ↑
Wed Jan 04, 2023 12:31 pm
I thought casteroil was only for the steering parts? Learn something every day. You guys are full of ............. knowledge!

No, that's camberoil.

Post by **Bryant** » Wed Jan 04, 2023 7:53 pm

Don’t bother with oil it will just leak out anyways save your money

Bryant

Norman Kling · Post by **Norman Kling** » Wed Jan 04, 2023 8:49 pm

All you need to do about leaks is to find out where it is leaking and wire tin cans under each leak. Then pour the oil back into the crankcase. I used to go to the gas station and get the oil which had been drained out of cars which had oil changes. I would fill a 5 gallon can with it and take it with me on a trip. One time back in the 1950's I drove from Los Angeles to Donner Pass via Bakersfield and back through Reno By the time I got to Mohave on the return trip, I had used up the 5 gallons of used oil and had to buy some more to get home. This was in a 29 Model A coupe I had bought for $90. Then I went to a wrecking yard and bought a used engine and brought it home on the running board.
Norm