Front wheel runout question
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Topic author - Posts: 37
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 6:59 pm
- First Name: Paul
- Last Name: Aranyos
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Touring
- Location: Greenville, PA
Front wheel runout question
When checking the wobble of my front tires with a square on the floor in front of the bottom of the tires, I get 1/8th inch movement as my wheels spin around. I have wire wheels and thought the movement was from slightly bent wheels, but it is actually from my front hubs. They have a slight wobble as they spin around the spindle. They spin very smoothly and I cant see any movement in the bearings when wiggling the wheels. The only movement I can see in the hub is about 1/32 movement straight in and out if I pull on them. Being new to the hobby, I don’t know if I need to replace the hubs, or is this normal? Thanks to anyone who can shed some light. Paul
A man has got to know his limitations!
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- Posts: 6524
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1919
- Location: not near anywhere, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: Front wheel runout question
Well, I spent some time answering your earlier question, but if you have 1/32" in/out of the hubs, your bearings are loose. The castle nut loosens by turning it in the direction of forward rotation (the passenger side is a left hand thread).
Then the outer bearing tightens by turning in the direction of backing up (it is threaded!)
Tighten the bearing and then tighten the castle nut snuggly to tightly and make sure the tire will still turn freely enough to find the heavy spot on the tire...you don't want it too tight!. This may take several attempts until you get it right as the castle nut will take up slack in the bearing threads and tends to make the final assembly tighter than where you left it with just the bearing adjusted by itself.
There should be a washer with a tab on it that keeps it from turning, between the bearing and the castle nut...this is important!
This will fix your wobble issue that I just answered in another thread, as well.
Then the outer bearing tightens by turning in the direction of backing up (it is threaded!)
Tighten the bearing and then tighten the castle nut snuggly to tightly and make sure the tire will still turn freely enough to find the heavy spot on the tire...you don't want it too tight!. This may take several attempts until you get it right as the castle nut will take up slack in the bearing threads and tends to make the final assembly tighter than where you left it with just the bearing adjusted by itself.
There should be a washer with a tab on it that keeps it from turning, between the bearing and the castle nut...this is important!
This will fix your wobble issue that I just answered in another thread, as well.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Topic author - Posts: 37
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 6:59 pm
- First Name: Paul
- Last Name: Aranyos
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Touring
- Location: Greenville, PA
Re: Front wheel runout question
Thanks Scott! My car is a 27, do I still have that washer?
A man has got to know his limitations!
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- Posts: 722
- Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2019 3:00 pm
- First Name: Keith
- Last Name: Gumbinger
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '14 Touring, '26 RPU, '27 Fordor, '27 Touring
- Location: Kenosha, WI
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: Front wheel runout question
Yes, your '27 has that washer.
Keith
Keith
'14 Touring, '26 Roadster Pickup, '27 Fordor, '27 Touring
Motto: It's hard to build a garage that's tooooo big!
Motto: It's hard to build a garage that's tooooo big!

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Topic author - Posts: 37
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 6:59 pm
- First Name: Paul
- Last Name: Aranyos
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Touring
- Location: Greenville, PA
Re: Front wheel runout question
Thanks. I will work on it in the morning
A man has got to know his limitations!
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- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Front wheel runout question
Paul, Scott cautions about not getting the bearings too tight. If they are they will wear quickly, and may well overheat. When adjusting them, I like to leave a smidgeon of play in the bearing. That way, I know they are not too tight. Adjust them as he suggests. Then grab the wheel at the top and pull on it to see if you can feel a slight movement. You will feel it rather than see it. It pays to drive a wooden wedge between the spindle body and the axle to rule out feeling any play in the kingpin bushes when you tug on the wheel.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
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Topic author - Posts: 37
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 6:59 pm
- First Name: Paul
- Last Name: Aranyos
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Touring
- Location: Greenville, PA
Re: Front wheel runout question
Ok, I tightened my bearings and the in/out play in the hub is gone. I also tightened my spindle bolt nuts and the small amount of play in the spindle bushings is also gone. I still have about 1/8 inch runout on my front wheels. I put on 2 new wire wheels and no change. My problem appears to be in the hubs themselves. When I spin them, they have a slight wobble as they go around. Is an 1/8 runout acceptable on model T wheels. It looks like a lot as I spin them around fast, but am I just too picky? I pulled the outer bearing and they look like new. I pulled the hub off and the spindle underneath looks good also.
A man has got to know his limitations!
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- Posts: 6610
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Front wheel runout question
Paul, I think 1/8" runout is entirely acceptable. There are lots worse doing great service. Just stay under 60 mph.
Tightening the spindle bolt nut will not correct play in the bushes/pins, nor correct any slop in the eyes of the axle. It will mask play in these areas by placing a load on the components, making it hard to determine/feel the play.
I am mystified by your changing to a wire wheel and still having runout. Wire wheels require their own hubs. Without adaptors, they will not fit wood wheel hubs. To fit them to your wood wheel hubs, the wheel would have to be taken apart! How did opu make the change?
Allan from down under.
Tightening the spindle bolt nut will not correct play in the bushes/pins, nor correct any slop in the eyes of the axle. It will mask play in these areas by placing a load on the components, making it hard to determine/feel the play.
I am mystified by your changing to a wire wheel and still having runout. Wire wheels require their own hubs. Without adaptors, they will not fit wood wheel hubs. To fit them to your wood wheel hubs, the wheel would have to be taken apart! How did opu make the change?
Allan from down under.
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Topic author - Posts: 37
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 6:59 pm
- First Name: Paul
- Last Name: Aranyos
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Touring
- Location: Greenville, PA
Re: Front wheel runout question
Hi Allan, My car came with wire wheels. I thought my runout was because of slightly bent wheels so I bought 2 new ones. Aparently my old ones are fine.
A man has got to know his limitations!