Do I have to tighten the low band some more?
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Topic author - Posts: 1152
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
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Do I have to tighten the low band some more?
When I step on the clutch (smartly all the way) the car sometimes bucks unless i have the engine revved up a bit. Then I seem to be starting too fast. I didn't want to adjust the low band too tight. The peddle was hitting the floor board and I made the slot a bit longer so it wouldn't hit. I may have rebuilt everything but I'm still new to driving.
Last edited by Mopar_man on Mon Aug 07, 2023 10:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Do I have to tighten the low band some more?
the faster you rev, the harder it is to grab it.
imagine your only job was to stop an electric motor with your bare hands...do you want it running at 1725 rpm, or turned off and barely turning?
if you're stomping into low, yeah, it's going to buck.
remember, if the car is idling nicely and spark is pulled down, then THAT is the speed that the spark is set to...once you engage low gear and RPM drops significantly, now spark is well before TDC and you've lost all of your power. That flywheel has LOTS of torque available so long as the pistons are not trying to stop it from too much spark.
Hint: for learning to drive, retard spark a good deal, minimal gas, and ease the pedal down...don't fart around, but don't stomp it, either. NOW you can advance spark and fuel and you're on your way. Once you're good at this, you should be able to start on paved level ground at a mere idle and end up fully engaged. There is actually very little slipping or heat this way...it's racing the engine and slipping the clutch forever to slowly get the drum slowed down and grabbed where you can do the damage.
Very little time spent slipping, and a firm, authoritative planting of your foot sooner than later, for the duration of low is appropriate...stomping with a lurch is a great way to break pinions and wrench on triple gear pins. Neither damage is ideal.
imagine your only job was to stop an electric motor with your bare hands...do you want it running at 1725 rpm, or turned off and barely turning?
if you're stomping into low, yeah, it's going to buck.
remember, if the car is idling nicely and spark is pulled down, then THAT is the speed that the spark is set to...once you engage low gear and RPM drops significantly, now spark is well before TDC and you've lost all of your power. That flywheel has LOTS of torque available so long as the pistons are not trying to stop it from too much spark.
Hint: for learning to drive, retard spark a good deal, minimal gas, and ease the pedal down...don't fart around, but don't stomp it, either. NOW you can advance spark and fuel and you're on your way. Once you're good at this, you should be able to start on paved level ground at a mere idle and end up fully engaged. There is actually very little slipping or heat this way...it's racing the engine and slipping the clutch forever to slowly get the drum slowed down and grabbed where you can do the damage.
Very little time spent slipping, and a firm, authoritative planting of your foot sooner than later, for the duration of low is appropriate...stomping with a lurch is a great way to break pinions and wrench on triple gear pins. Neither damage is ideal.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Re: Do I have to tighten the low band some more?
You don't say what kind of band lining you have. Whether you are starting uphill of level. you don't say what gear ratio the rear axle gears are. All these things will affect the smoothness of the band. If you have wood bands it might be a bit rougher shifting than with cotton, Scandinavian, or Kevlar. Also if the linings are installed properly in the bands. They must be tight against the steel bands, not hanging between the rivets. the standard ratio in rear axle works easiest. I have a 3:1 in one of my cars which was in it when I got it. It is very hard to start uphill on a grade because I will kill the engine if I start out too slow. Fortunately I have Ruckstell so when I am starting uphill I use low Ruckstell.
Anyway, these are a few things which could be causing the problem. Maybe as posted above it is just the position of the throttle and spark which can help you.
Norm
Anyway, these are a few things which could be causing the problem. Maybe as posted above it is just the position of the throttle and spark which can help you.
Norm
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Topic author - Posts: 1152
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Re: Do I have to tighten the low band some more?
The bands are cotton and were riveted nicely. I was on a flat surface. I'm not sure of the ratio in the rear. I'm assuming it's standard for a 26/7 and nothing special.
I'm going to try to have the engine a low an idle as I can get it and slowly but deliberately engage low gear.
Thanks for all the tips. Keep em coming.
I'm going to try to have the engine a low an idle as I can get it and slowly but deliberately engage low gear.
Thanks for all the tips. Keep em coming.
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Re: Do I have to tighten the low band some more?
Adjustment should be with plenty of free play in the low pedal but it should go no closer to the floor than an inch when fully depressed. If you are having to make that adjustment often, check to be sure you don't have a cracked drum eating up the band lining.
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
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Re: Do I have to tighten the low band some more?
Guys, I am also learning to drive my T and all the nuances that go along with it and these tips have turned a few lightbulbs on for me. As Robert said, keep'em coming. Really appreciate it!
1917 Touring
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Re: Do I have to tighten the low band some more?
You don't want much spark advance starting out.
If you are running on MAG, a weak magneto may allow the ignition to drop out at very low engine speeds.
If the engine is running lean or if the intake is cold and loaded with moisture or even frost, it can make starting off a little touchy.
A worn throttle shaft or linkage problems can make starting out more difficult.
Practice will make it easy, just don't get in the habit of excess clutch slipping.
The car is capable of very smooth starts and very smooth shifts if it is in reasonably good adjustment.
If you are running on MAG, a weak magneto may allow the ignition to drop out at very low engine speeds.
If the engine is running lean or if the intake is cold and loaded with moisture or even frost, it can make starting off a little touchy.
A worn throttle shaft or linkage problems can make starting out more difficult.
Practice will make it easy, just don't get in the habit of excess clutch slipping.
The car is capable of very smooth starts and very smooth shifts if it is in reasonably good adjustment.
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Re: Do I have to tighten the low band some more?
If you are used to driving a "normal" manual shift car, or an automatic, you'll have to retrain your right hand to operate the throttle instead of your right foot.
At the same time, youll need to retrain your left foot to push the pedal down to go and release it to stop or shift.
At the same time, youll need to retrain your left foot to push the pedal down to go and release it to stop or shift.
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Re: Do I have to tighten the low band some more?
What Scott said!! That's the best description and explanation for engaging low speed I have read. If the band was too loose, the engine would continue to race with the pedal down. Do what Scott said before you fiddle with the band.
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Re: Do I have to tighten the low band some more?
When you’ve been driving modern cars with manual shifting or an automatic you have to remember ( if you can ) a Model T is 100 year old technology.
Learning how to use the spark lever and gas lever especially when you’re shifting into low or coming to a stop going down hills is totally different than your new Chev, Ford Dodge or whatever pickup.
REMEMBER. Your modern vehicle does it automatically if your vehicle is automatic. When you’re driving your Model T you’re the one that’s doing it with your foot and those two levers under the steering wheel!!
Learning how to use the spark lever and gas lever especially when you’re shifting into low or coming to a stop going down hills is totally different than your new Chev, Ford Dodge or whatever pickup.
REMEMBER. Your modern vehicle does it automatically if your vehicle is automatic. When you’re driving your Model T you’re the one that’s doing it with your foot and those two levers under the steering wheel!!