How do I remove the rear lifter with the oil line in the way?

[Mark Nunn]

I am preparing to buy new valves and lifters for my Runabout. I removed the 2-piece valves and measured the valve guide diameters. I took measurements at the top, center and bottom. Paragraphs 217 and 219 in the service manual say to insert a new valve and check for clearance. The maximum is .008”. I don’t have a new valve to check and my old valves are too worn out to trust.

What is the actual stem diameter of the new standard valves from our trusted suppliers? Chaffin’s and Snyder’s catalogs don’t give a measurement. Lang’s states .312”. They also mention that the modern valves are .030” over or .340” stems. Wouldn’t that make stock .310”? Older posts that I read vary and some say .3125”.

If new stainless valves are .312”, my guides are well within the service manual tolerance. If they are .310”, it’s time to go oversized. The easy thing to do is just ream and use oversized valves. I would rather be conservative and preserve as much originality as possible for the next generations.

[Kerry]

Original Ford specs are, stem .3105" to 312" and guide holes .3125"

[Mark Gregush]

You are putting new valves in, so changing the stem diameter would not be that much of a jump. Also consider how many miles the car was driven in the past to get any wear along with how many miles will it be driven in future.

[Mark Nunn]

Yeah, Mark. I will be going oversized. A friend of mine locally has a set (well, 7) of new oversized valves. He wants to get rid of them and I can lighten his load. It's a win-win. The ONLY advantage I see using standard valves is that I don't have to pull the engine. I can't get a reamer to the rearmost valve. It's not a big deal, though.

[Kerry]

It is a bit of a fallacy in thinking one can ream the valve guides free hand and still be square to the seat, get yourself a good 3 way seat cutter as well.

[Mark Nunn]

Yes, Frank. A Neway cutter set (46, 31 & 60 degree) is on the list. I was waiting until I knew which pilot to order. I'll make a reaming fixture like what Scott Conger posted in an earlier thread. That will hold the reamer in alignment.

[Kerry]

if the valves are .030" over, you will still need both reams, .015" as well. the 30 is too big to cut a standard guide in one go.

[Mark Nunn]

I am replacing the cam, valves and lifters with the engine in my car. The oil tube is blocking the rear lifter head. I don't want to remove and disassemble my engine for a simple job. What have you done to get the lifter out?

[Norman Kling]

I don't think there is a way to remove the oil line without removing the flywheel. That would involve pulling the engine and transmission and removing the crankcase and flywheel. Might as well overhaul the entire power unit , magneto, and transmission if you go to that extent. It is possible to file the top of the lifter smooth if it is pitted, and then grind the valve stem to the proper clearance. That's the way it was originally done by Ford. Adjustable lifters are great for getting the optimum performance and quietness, but difficult to place without pulling the engine.
Norm

[Mark Nunn]

I got the lifter out. There was a little flex in the tube. I got the lifter head started against the tube. I cut down a spare pushrod from my Thunderbird and gently tapped the lifter down from above. The pushrod is the same diameter as the valve stem.

[Norman Kling]

Good. I hope the solder joint held inside the Hogs Head. Where the line is connected to the funnel.
Norm

[Mark Gregush]

Think the hole it passes through is tight enough there shouldn't be much flex at the solder joint.

[Dan Hatch]

Just for your information.
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