Stater Motor Bendix
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Topic author - Posts: 57
- Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2019 1:27 pm
- First Name: Joe
- Last Name: Gallagher
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Coupe
- Location: El Dorado Hills California
Stater Motor Bendix
Hello, I have a 1927 Model T coupe. I have been through all the part companies web sites and a complete Bendix starter drive seems to be no longer available. If this the fact, I need to change the gear myself and cannot figure out how to remove it from the shaft. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Joe
Thanks
Joe
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- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:53 am
- First Name: Tim
- Last Name: Wrenn
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13 Touring, '26 "Overlap" Fordor
- Location: Ohio
- Board Member Since: 2019
Re: Stater Motor Bendix
You'll probly have to buy it piece by piece. Some assembly required!
Or go on the parts forum and see if someone either has a good complete used one or NOS
Or go on the parts forum and see if someone either has a good complete used one or NOS
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- First Name: Jerry
- Last Name: Van
- Location: S.E. Michigan
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- Posts: 5009
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 7:31 pm
- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Hatch
- Location: Alabama
Re: Stater Motor Bendix
Get a service manual, it will tell you anything you want to know.
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- Posts: 2531
- Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 4:17 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Strange
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1924 Cut Off Touring (now a pickup)
- Location: Hillsboro, MO
- Board Member Since: 2013
Re: Stater Motor Bendix
Rebuilt Bendix assemblies sometimes show up on eBay, especially soon after someone on the forum says they want one. Coincidence? 

Mark Strange
Hillsboro, MO
1924 Cut-off Touring (now a pickup)
Hillsboro, MO
1924 Cut-off Touring (now a pickup)
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- Posts: 6609
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Stater Motor Bendix
Joe, to remove the gear you first remove the round collar which runs in the babbit bearing in the starter snout. The collar is threaded onto the assembly, and the threads are staked so it cannot wind itself off. Look in the end and you will see the upset thread.
Find two bullet head nails of a diameter small enough to go into the two holes in the collar, and cut them off short under the heads. Put the nail pieces in the holes and put the assembly in a vice between two soft jaws. Then rotate the whole until the nail heads prevent it from turning, and tighten the vice.
Now the spiral is held, screw in an old Bendix bolt on the other end. I then use a large crescent wrench to screw the spiral out of the collar. Adjust the wrench to suit the end. The bolt head acts as a stop on the wrench end, and the nails as a stop on the collar end. It takes some force to overcome the upsets on the thread, but it will screw off.
Re-assembling the parts is just a reversal of the above. However, if the upsets are in the same place when tightened, I often have to grind a little off the back end of the collar so it threads on in a slightly different position for re staking the thread.
Hope this helps. If not, I have rebuilt original assemblies available.
Allan from down under.
Find two bullet head nails of a diameter small enough to go into the two holes in the collar, and cut them off short under the heads. Put the nail pieces in the holes and put the assembly in a vice between two soft jaws. Then rotate the whole until the nail heads prevent it from turning, and tighten the vice.
Now the spiral is held, screw in an old Bendix bolt on the other end. I then use a large crescent wrench to screw the spiral out of the collar. Adjust the wrench to suit the end. The bolt head acts as a stop on the wrench end, and the nails as a stop on the collar end. It takes some force to overcome the upsets on the thread, but it will screw off.
Re-assembling the parts is just a reversal of the above. However, if the upsets are in the same place when tightened, I often have to grind a little off the back end of the collar so it threads on in a slightly different position for re staking the thread.
Hope this helps. If not, I have rebuilt original assemblies available.
Allan from down under.
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- First Name: ROBERT
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- Location: LOVES PARK IL
Re: Stater Motor Bendix
eBay item number:155977731914
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- First Name: Beat
- Last Name: Betschart
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Trachslau Switzerland
Re: Stater Motor Bendix
I'm also overtaking my two Bendix. I see that the gear is mounted in a different position on both. There are three options. Should the counterbalance be opposite the screws or does it not matter? What do I need to know?
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
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- First Name: Jerry
- Last Name: Van
- Location: S.E. Michigan
Re: Stater Motor Bendix
Interesting question! All but 1 of my spares have the weight away from the bolt holes when the gear is fully retracted. Of the 3 positioning options, 2 of them keep the weight away from the bolts. In my spares, either of the 2 "away" positions are what I find, (with the exception of the 1 that is aligned with the bolts). Some of my spares have been previously disassembled/reassembled, and some have not been touched.
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- First Name: john
- Last Name: karvaly
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14/15 wide track roadster. 23 touring, 27 roadster pickup, 20ish rajo touring
- Location: orange, ca
- Board Member Since: 2020
Re: Stater Motor Bendix
Doesnt matter. The only important consideration is the counterweight position on the gear if moved/removed.
The spring loaded pin must ride on the top of one of the threads.
The spring loaded pin must ride on the top of one of the threads.