Warford 2 speed cast iron

[tvw]

I pulled my Warford yesterday to address the oil leak. I filled it with modern gear oil to the top of the fill opening and it slowly leaked out to the countershaft level. Don't know the proper oil level but the countershaft seems pretty low. It leaked out of the cotter pin hole, what is supposed to seal that?

[tvw]

My first plan was to swap the cast iron 2 speed for the aluminum 3 speed (not KW) that I recently rebuilt. Not! The 2 speed is 10 1/2" long, 3 speed is 12" Sure is a lot of variables on these boxes, a lot of information in the forums here too. Too bad it's scattered all over in random posts, would be nice to have a thread dedicated to Warford.
Anyhow, I will figure it out and put the 2 speed back in...
Another question: this unit was installed directly to the T transmission output. The input shaft of the Warford has substantial wear, looks like it is smaller than the output of the T trans. I read somewhere here about an adapter, is my setup missing something?

[Craig Leach]

Hi Jeff,
Measure the input shaft on your 2 speed if it's 13/16" then yes there should be a adapter & U/joint between the T trans & the Warford. The
aluminum Warford should have a 7/8" input that fits well in the T trans. I think by the pic of your Warford shaft I would be looking close at the
T output square also. If the 2 spd. input is 13/16" this may be agood time to have a shaft & radius rods shortened for the aluminum 3spd.
While you have everything apart you may want to concider a 10 tooth pinion also.
Craig.

[tvw]

Yeah, I just got it pulled last night, I will check measurements today. Get a good look at the T trans output too.
Won't an adapter with a U joint make the assembly longer? Going to be a pita to find one

[Dan McEachern]

That input shaft is really worn. If you are going to put that trans back in use, consider pulling the shaft out and welding up the worn areas and remachine it. Its not ideal, but if you preheat the shaft before welding its will be better that what you have now. As above, check the trans female square- it might be badly worn as well.

[Craig Leach]

I have run into this issue ( 13/16"- 7/8" ) on cast iron Warford inputs with guys that have a cast iron & no adaptor or want to not use the adaptor
or have tryed to run the smaller shaft in the larger square with a simular result. I have always been under the impression that trying to shim the difference was not a option. This thread got me thinking again. Jeffs shaft is in much need of repair & as Dan mentioned that welding &
remachining is a option. That can be tricky & requires a good machinest & welder/metalurgist to do the job. Some attempts have not been
successfull. If the input shaft could be machined to just under .750 & sleeved with a .065 square tube of 4130 with a 7/8" O.D. would that be a
viable option? I found a supplier on line that has that & other size chome moly square tubing & sells it by the foot. I have not delt with them
but if some wants to try they are Wick's Aircraft & Motorsrorts. wicksaircraft.com 1(800)-221-9425 the part # is SQ7/8x065-41
Craig.

[tvw]

The input and output of the 2 speed, as well as the 3 are both 7/8" and yes, the output socket of the T trans is the same size and worn like the Warford input shaft. Given the machining, parts replacement and disassembly required to properly fix the problem I decided to put it back together, noting the repairs needed for a proper overhaul. I also pulled the top off the Warford, gears are clean and nice, everything looks good. The oil level inside the unit sits halfway up the countershaft after it leaks out the cotter pin hole. Still don't know the proper oil level for the box or if there is a seal for the countershaft where it leaks but the amount of oil in the box will splash around plenty to keep things lubricated. So it's all back together now and given the amount of miles I will likely put on the old touring car it will probably outlast me.
Thanks for the help and advice!

[Craig Leach]

Hi Jeff,
If you havn't installed the Warford yet you can remove the countershaft pin & machine it for a O/Ring just inside of the cotter pin. If you can
get it realy clean silicone on the shaft hole before you install the pin will slow it down if not stop the leak. As long as it has oil in it should be
OK. You may want to put some heavy grease on the square when you install the Warford.
Craig.

[tvw]

The O ring is a really good idea!