1926 roadster top iron and bows width and windshield pivot

[Dave Foley]

i have a 26-7 roadster i am having difficulty with top irons and bows, i have looked at the forum and found a few details (2013)however my top appears to wide, i measure car body at pivot on body at about 48 inches wide, top irons with bows at 54 wide, at pivot point where attatched to car . what is the correct width? the wood kit came with the car and has 2 pieces 35.5 measured from the metal socket to metal socket and one piece 36.5 which is stamped 26-7 roadster. the 36.5 inch piece was drilled for the top mounts to windshield not sure if its correct .

2) the other picture shows windshield to frame cone and nut is this correct as assembled windshield cone , nut, thru frame with the outside wing nut ? or don they use the nut? which way does the taper on nut go? without the nut the windshield frame hits the stanchion, (currently windshields off the car)

3) when you assemble the windshield do you put it on as an assembly or do you put a stanchion on one at a time, or do you assemble with glass and install to cowl?

i do have a 26 touring with the windshield mounted however the top wood bows need replacing just got a kit from langes for that however top irons need serious repair, I'm using the windshield spacing as a guide
roadster top irons may be reproductions as they are different in construction than to touring which are original

any drawings or direction would be very helpful

Thank you for your advise

[DanTreace]

Generally the measure you have seems it will be ok to fit the body with the top irons. There is a 'slight' springyness of the irons to the body anyway, as you have to spread the long irons open to place over the body posts. All should align as you put the prop nut on each prop post.

The stanchion should have a corresponding female cone inside, and the windshield frame cone will fit to it, the nut shouldn't cause issue the way you have it.

For me easier to place the stanchions on the body, with the carriage bolts some what loose for the stanchions to be pulled apart slightly to fit the frames which will have the glass and glass clips mounted to the frame. Plus the stanchions need to have the rubber weather seals placed before fitting the windshield frames. When adjusted, then finally tighten up the stanchions.

[Ken Buhler]

Hello Dave,
Refer to my post of Oct 25/2021 titled Improved Open Car Surgery And Build. Or you can click on my name and go to my profile to find my posts. It may be on page three where you find this. I show detailed photos of this topic. First, fit the gap between the frames and the frames to the posts, and the swing of the bare frames in the posts. The width of the front bow is determined by the fitment of the clamps on the posts. Leave the second and third bows loose in their sockets to be set later when you get the top kit on. Spread and clamp the sockets to the bow when when you take up the slack in the top fabric, then secure them with the rivets. Set the posts so that the forward edge of the front bow is directly vertical with the door hinge pins and tighten the carriage bolts. The front socket side arms should be level and that will determine the distance back to the rear bow which should be in the middle of the rear upper deck panel.

[Dave Foley]

Thank you both for your advice, i will put the windshield and top assembly back together and reassemble to fit everything on the roadster, and get some pictures

got the touring top welded up and straightened, received the solid rivets for the top bows from langes need to figure out how to succesfully buck them.

really appreciate the forum and membership helping people, my adventure started about 5 years ago when i found the touring body in a dumpster, roadster was rescued from a hot rodder, since than been very fortunate to have found parts to get them going

[Ken Buhler]

Dave,
Did you look at my detailed post with the photos of what I am talking about? That will give you a visual of what you are trying to achieve.

[Dave Foley]

Sorry it took a bit to reply wanted to mock up and get some pictures. Dan and Ken thank you very much for your guidance, all of my cars are made up of parts so its all refitting rough stuff

i ended up with the wood kit top bow that came with car and marked 26-7 roadster the wood kit had one bow that measured 36.5 and two that were 35.5 one of the 35.5 was marked front ( however the best fit was the 36.5 and allowed the top hold down to fit pins nicely)and possibly reproduction bows at 54 inches wide at the pivot location of bows way to wide , car is 48 inches at pivot posts so i dummied up some wood and replaced shortened wood bows a couple inches to where it "looked about right" still a work in progress, still have some spring out from the car about an inch per side that is held in by prop nuts. ill attatch a picture

windshield cones and nuts , i have 3 original and one aftermarket that ill have to replace (the aftermarket is brass and wrong in taper and design), with the nut on end the cone does not contact stanchion, so i left the nuts off and it seems better allows my windshield to fit cone and when tightened not flop around

i assembled windshield stantions/uprights loosely and than stuck the windshield in worked well, glad i am fitting this before paint lots of adjustments and scrapes.

Ken
yes i read your oct post (and many others you've authored) awesome work i took your advice and set front bow as it wanted to be with the front wood allowing ease of hold downs to function, its going to be a while before i get a top kit

it also helped to see how the cowl was assembled , the roadster was cut up to hot rod, had to put the tank straps back in it trying to reset the cowl tank helped to see the assembly

i am also working on a 26 touring and got a langes wood kit for it, fit all the wood after repair of irons it liked the 35.5 front bow

all of my stuff is fun stuff and not for show, i do appreciate the forum and guidance

im going to change my profile the 23- center door body project is a bit much for me to take on


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[fordt]

Dave,
When you’re giving your top bow lengths in this post, are the measurements between the top iron metal bracket ends? Found this and figured this was a starting point. Does EVERYONE pretty much agree with the bow length numbers in the picture??