Tire problem

[Will]

I’m trying to mount so tires with new Coker tubes, after killing 3 new tubes I’ve ran into a new issue. In my last tube I can’t get the tube to seat in the grove. I’ve tried two separate rims thinking that was the problem. Tomorrow I will try a different tire.I tried to load a photo but don’t think it worked

[Will]

Sence the photo didn’t show every time it’s next to the tire valve

[Norman Kling]

Did you cut a small notch in the bead on each side of the valve? The notch should be just wide enough to allow the stem to go through. When the tire is mounted the two sides of the tire come together in the middle and if you don't have a small notch cut, it could be pinching on the stem causing it to not go on the rim.
Norm

[speedytinc]

I dont get "I can’t get the tube to seat in the grove." What does this mean?
Go to U tube university. You will find some helpful videos.
How did you kill 3 tubes??
Are you putting the tube in the tire & installing both beads @ the same time??

[Will]

Sorry, I was at an almost Abba concert when I was try to type. What I was trying to say I tried two different rims and had the same problem, Both time right at the valve. The bead doesn't want to seat in at the valve. Norm, What should I cut?

[speedytinc]

I dont get "I can’t get the tube to seat in the grove." What does this mean?
Go to U tube university. You will find some helpful videos.
How did you kill 3 tubes??
Are you putting the tube in the tire & installing both beads @ the same time??

Installing clincher tires is an acquired skill. Once learned/mastered it will be no big deal.

[speedytinc]

Sorry, I was at an almost Abba concert when I was try to type. What I was trying to say I tried two different rims and had the same problem, Both time right at the valve. The bead doesn't want to seat in at the valve. Norm, What should I cut?

You cut about a 1/2" triangle out of the bead where it would make contact with the stem.
When enough clearance is cut, the stem has no pressure on it & can easily be pushed in or out.
U tube university.

[Allan]

You DON"T need to cut anything! This becomes someone's necessity when they are trying to fit the tyres one side at a time.

Lightly inflate the tube just enough to hold its shape and put it in the tyre. Fit the flap if you must, at the same time.

Lube both beads of the tyre, drop the rim over the valve stem and use a c clamp to hold the tyre/tube assembly in place, with both beads in the rim.

Work either side of the stem, lever BOTH beads on at the same time. Towards the end one side may pop on. Just be careful levering the second side on.

Job done. I air them up to pressure, deflate them and air them up again. and check the stem alignment, and the seating around the rim.

Allan from down under.

[Allan]

Found these two photos.

This shows a rim liner made from the OD of a 14" inner tube.
When fitting this hard old Olympic tyre I used 3 clamps, just because I could.

Notice the beads are not yet levered on past the clamps. Tyre lube even helps th tyre slide on the levers when working around the rim


Allan from down under.

[Steve Jelf]

I doubt that there are any "Coker tubes". Tube brands I have bought are Custom Classic (which I avoid) and Hartford (bought from Coker and other tire dealers. If you want to pay more, you can get top-of-the-line Blockleys.

I have never had to cut a tire to make it fit. I use Allan's method, with one difference. I find it easier to mount a tire with the wheel on the car. That means the stem is at the bottom, close to the floor. After the stem is installed in its hole, I let the car down on it to hold it in place. I don't put the whole weight of the car on it. Only use enough weight to keep the stem in its hole. From there, the rest is the way Allan described it. Pry the rest of the tire onto the rim, both sides together. Powder helps.

I have not been convinced that flaps (never used by Ford) are necessary if the rims are good.

[Allan]

Steve's method is best when the tyres are on non demountable rims. Letting weight of the car do the clamping is the way to go. I once had to do this for a T owner new to his 1914 tourer. That was the easy bit. Inflating the tyre on the side of the road was not so easy, until another tour participant in his modern happened along with a 12 volt electric pump in the boot.

Allan from down under.

[KBurket]

This is a timely post. I’ll be mounting a set of new clinchers (new tires purchased in 2008) on rims in the near future. I’m hoping for a hot sunny day to warm up the tires. I have demountable rims and was planning to mount while the wheels are on the car.
Here’s a link to a post with a sequence of photos showing installation of tire and tube while wheel is on the car.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/17 ... 1319847992

[Will]

Thanks guys, I will go get some clamps today. I have a charity show for a Veterans group tomorrow and I need to get this done. I couldn't seem to find that U tube university, Could send me a link to it please. One good thing about Florida, There's never a shortage of hot sunshine here! Thank you. John, Killed three tubes by being in a hurry because of a time crunch, Weak arthritic hands and getting frustrated because of all three. That said, I've patched hundreds of tubes back when I was a kid with 100% success rate, I fully except the same success rate this time. The last tube was because of three reasons already mentioned, I didn't get all the old balancing beads out of the tire when the last tube exploded and it put a small hole in it. Rule of thumb, If your getting to upset to do the job right then stop doing the job and back off for a while as it only goes bad from there.

[Nv Bob]

To seat the need at valve stem after the tire is on bounce the tire on the floor around the rim
The only time a v cut is if the clintcher has been run or bent in a little at valve stem

[speedytinc]

U tube.
Put in a search - like :Changing model T tires.
Several videos will show as well as past MTFCA posts on the subject.

Back when clincher tires were made correctly, when the beads are set there was overlapping rubber inner edges so the tube stayed nestled in the tire & never touched the rim. Separate flaps were unnecessary in clinchers. (Some of you guys must remember) New tires had to have 2 V's cut to clear/allow for the valve stem. I remember new firestones had a full overlapping edge 40 years ago.
Todays tires have smaller inner edges with no overlap when installed.
( no hands on mounting Blockleys. I would hope they are made correctly in this regard.)
Some tires still have enough material to tightly pinch a rubber valve stem & make it difficult to get the beads to seat @ the stem. Metal stems are thinner & more forgiving here.
The last Firestones & coker commanders I installed needed those notches cut in the bead.