Best Anti Water in Gas Product?

[Professor Fate]

What's popular [product additive] for treating 10% ethanol gasoline to prevent water accumulation? What's your best and worst experience?

[mtntee20]

Buy Ethanol free gas. https://www.pure-gas.org/ This web site lists all known locations for buying ethanol free gas. I use it in everything but our daily drivers as they are driven year round - MODERNS.

[Norman Kling]

California has a special formula and all gas must be in conformance with the formula. Best thing for the gas is to keep the tank low unless going up steep hills or long drives. Then from time to time drain the sediment bulb. Gas is lighter than water so the water goes to the bottom and is caught in the sediment bulb. This might now work, however, in a humid climate because the condensation could get into the tank which is not a sealed system.
Norm

[Professor Fate]

Tape over the vent hole will help. But one must remember to remove it before each run.

[mtntee20]

Water in gasoline comes from moisture condensing, inside, on the cooler fuel tank metal. The moisture is sucked in by the gas and tank by, first being warmed during the day, causing some air to be pushed out of the vent hole. When the tank cools at night, moist air is sucked in the vent hole. The moisture condenses on the cooler metal and drops into the gasoline falling to the bottom of the tank. This happens due to a couple facts: 1. the gasoline will retain heat better than air, and 2. moisture will not condense beneath the surface of gasoline. Moisture must be in liquid form beneath the surface of gasoline.

To minimize this cycle, keep the tank FULL. This minimizes the space that heats and cools thus allowing less moisture to enter through the vent. Keep in mind, gasoline, or most any liquid, expands/contracts LESS than AIR. Thus, the less air space inside the tank, the less air will move in and out with temperature changes.

This is another good reason to keep ALL of your gasoline tanks as full as practicable during the cooler/colder seasons.

[Chris Barker]

Interesting that no one has even tried to answer your question!

Maybe because only time will tell. However, reputable companies such as Wynns and Miller offer products which should help, and are sufficiently low in cost to be worth trying.

Another possibility is that although people have encountered problems with fuel that has 'gone off', none has definitely had a problem with water corroding a tank. And if you have used an additive and nothing happened, how do you know whether the additive actually helped?

[John.Zibell]

When I lived in Massachusetts and New Hampshire I would add dry gas in the winter to fuel before there was ethanol gas. Guess what dry gas is----ethanol. So the ethanol fuel you purchase today will absorb water and prevent the gas line from freezing.

[TXGOAT2]

Freezing is not the primary issue. Corrosion, gumming, and chemical breakdown of the gasohol is. At least some gas line anti-freeze products are isopropyl alcohol. As far as I know, anti-freeze gas additives make no claims relating to preventing the breakdown of gasohol. If you can't avoid storing a car with gasohol in it, a full tank with Stabil added is probably your best bet.Taping the vent could help prevent moisture entry. Anything that helps stabilize temperature in the storage area will help. Filling a gas tank brim-full will keep air out of of it, but it could lead to serious problems in regions where temperatures vary during winter time. Around here, winter time temperatures can vary from around 0F to over 90F, often in a very short time. A gas tank that is completely full at lower temperatures will overflow when it warms up. This can lead to disaster.

Gasohol is somewhat like brake fluid in that it can and will break down into a very destructive substance under some conditions.
All gasohol does not decay at the same rate.

[TXGOAT2]

I notice that "10%" gasohol does not prevent carburetor freeze-up in cool, damp weather in a Model T or other vehicles that lack carburetor heat.
Around here, in rural Texas, most gasohol is sold with the notation: "Product MAY contain up to 10% ethanol".
In other areas, the ethanol content may be consistently higher. In the Midwest corn belt, ethanol content may be much higher.
If I was in a corn state, I'd put E-85 in a Model T to see how it behaves. I'd expect to find that I'd have to open up the main jet and probably use the choke more aggressively. I would NOT put that stuff in a car that was going to be stored!
In this area, it is unusual for weather to be so bad that I can't drive my T for more than a week or ten days at a time, so I don't worry about ethanol. I don't like it. In fact, I hate it, but unfortunately the alternative is much more expensive and not widely available.

[Craig Leach]

Isopropyl alcohol can contain as much as 30% water? Here in Arizona all pump gas up to 10% ethanol. I have had good luck with Sea-Foam,
Star-Tron & a product like Stabil made by Briggs & Stratton. For keeping gas fresh, We don't have much trouble with getting water in our
gas but the heat brakes it down pretty fast. Out of the sun it will last up to 18 months with most fuel treatments.
Craig.

[Oldav8tor]

Michigan fuel has 10% ethanol but I have found it to be a non-issue. If a gas tank is not kept full and allowed to sit a long time you can expect some condensation and in rare cases, separation. This has been true since the dawn of the automotive era. Any water in your tank comes from condensation unless your fuel source is contaminated. Free water will settle to the bottom of the tank and with luck will collect in the sediment bulb, where it can be drained.The thing to remember is, the small amount of water that might condense in your gas tank during normal use will not dissolve in gasoline but will dissolve in alcohol which will burn harmlessly in your engine.

On a related note - aircraft fuel does not contain alcohol but you can still experience water contamination. A standard part of every pre-flight is to drain a little fuel from the lowest points of the fuel system to check for and remove water.

Some folks talk about ethanol damaging fuel system components. I know that is an issue with older boats. I haven't found anything in my Model T's fuel system that is likely to suffer damage from ethanol, especially if your car gets regular use.

When I park my car for the winter I fill the tank and add Stabil. I run the engine with the fuel shut off until the carb is dry. My car always starts right up in spring and I've never had an issue. In 10,000 miles I haven't had any fuel-related problems. Today's fuel is much better than what was available during the Model T's heyday so just fill-up and enjoy.

[Steve Jelf]

I believe that if you drive enough not to let the fuel sit for a long time, the little moisture in it will be consumed with it.The only time I've had an engine fail to start because of water build-up, it was in a tractor that hadn't been started in over six months. My '23 touring that has been sitting for over a year due to a broken low drum and other damage will be checked for water before I try to run it again. While I was grounded for all of fall and most of winter, my cousin watching the place occasionally would start my Camry to keep the battery charged. I suspect the occasional running "burned up" any moisture that may have settled in the tank. When I was finally able to drive again in March the car started instantly, using E-10 that had been sitting since August. That's probably because Zack ran it a few times while I was gone.

I buy the least expensive gas. That is usually E-10. Once I noticed the much lower price of E-85 and tried a tankful in the Camry. The mileage was bad enough to make the E-85 cost more than E-10.

[Professor Fate]

I think the MMO or C foam would be best, along with taping the vent hole in the T cap.
I think the big thing about water is more about storage than during the car operating season, unless you get garbage gas from the pump.
Like I said earlier, I think I made a big oops by not treating my fuel for storage. And regular use of same products is purported to discourage build up in the engine, especially the dreaded carbon.

[TXGOAT2]

Moisture condensation can be an issue with any gasoline in a vented tank. BUT.... ethanol is hygroscopic, that is, it will absorb moisture from the air, unlike straight gasoline. Water will mix readily with ethanol, which will cause the ethanol to separate and collect in the bottom of the tank. Atmospheric moisture also contains oxygen, and oxygenated water probably accelerates rust and fuel breakdown. Over time, you end up with a real mess. How much time that takes depends on many variables, but in my experience, storing untreated ethanol adulterated fuel in a vented container for over a month to six weeks is asking for trouble.

"Rubbing alcohol" is typically 70% isopropyl alcohol and 30% water. WalMart sells 91% isopropyl alcohol, which would be better for any automotive use. I have used 70% rubbing alcohol both as radiator anti-freeze and to remove water from fuel systems. 91% would be much better for the purpose. If you ever have issues with molasses in your fuel system, rubbing alcohol can get rid of it.

[TRDxB2]

What's popular [product additive] for treating 10% ethanol gasoline to prevent water accumulation? What's your best and worst experience?

The best product to add in order to prevent water accumulation is more gasoline.
As explained above: Just about everyone will agree that the amount of air in the tank allows moisture to accumulate through condensation.
So by keeping the tank 95% full (allows for expansion) reduces the amount of air for condensation to occur. Also as noted, closing off the vent hole in a Model T gas cap will prevent any "new air" from entering. So if you agree to the condensation cause then it doesn't matter if you use E10, E85 or even ethanol free gas, condensation will occur. Since water is heavier than gas it will drop to the bottom of the tank unless put in suspension.

Next step is to treat the gas in the tank. Fuel left in the tank can begin to break down in as little as 30-60 days. This can cause gum, varnish, rust and corrosion to build up in the fuel lines and engine. Fuel "stabilizers" like
STA-BIL
CLASSIC AUTOMOBILES: When storing your vehicle (modern or classic), fill the tank 95% full with fresh fuel and add STA-BIL Storage Fuel Stabilizer and run for a few minutes. This ensures that the entire fuel system is protected. Store in a dry place that is protected from environmental elements. Place a car cover on for additional storage protection.
You decide which to use https://www.goldeagle.com/shop/brands/sta-bil/

SEA-Foam
Directions
-For regular fuel system maintenance, add 1 ounce per gallon.
-For cleaning, use 2 or more ounces per gallon – the more you add to fuel, the better it cleans! Add when the tank is low to maximize cleaning concentration.
-For injector cleaning machines, use 50/50 mixed with gas.
-Use 100% Sea Foam for diesel injector cleaning machines or when priming diesel fuel filters.
-For 2-stroke pre-mix, add 2 ounces per gallon.
-When stabilizing fuel for storage, use 1 (one) ounce per gallon of fuel. Sea Foam works to stabilize stored fuel up to 2 years.

HEET
HEET contains methanol (not alcohol) which when combined with water it forms a homogeneous mixture (new product) and as a result of the chemical reaction a small amount of heat is released. So it will "remove" water in a sense.
https://www.goldeagle.com/product/heet- ... r-remover/

Found this very well controlled experiment about removing water so if you have the time https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cC4hlcZz5DM
If not here's the conclusion

[jiminbartow]

Water is heavier than gas. In aircraft, one of the preflight procedures is to open the bottom petcock of the fuel tank to allow the water to drain out (aircraft fuel tanks are shaped so that there is a sump in the lowest point of the tank that the water goes into). Couldn’t the same procedure be used with Model T’s? I know that the 1926-27 cowl fuel tank has the fuel outlet on the front right corner of the fuel tank. If you jacked up the left rear tire, that would cause the water in the tank to flow towards the front right outlet. It could then be let out by opening the fuel filter/valve drain. Jim Patrick

[Professor Fate]

The ethanol apparently allows the water to dilute and be suspended in the gas giving the gas a foggy or milky hue if mixed or shaken. See the picture I've posted for reference.
The water will separate if the fuel is left alone and not disturbed. Clear gas will collect at the top, and water at the bottom. Stratification!

[TXGOAT2]

Ethanol and other alcohols will mix readily with water. Ethanol and other alcohols will mix with gasoline to a limited degree. Water will not settle out of ethanol, but it will settle out of gasoline. Ethanol in gasoline that has absorbed any significant amount of water, whether from direct absorption from the air or from condensate in the gas tank, will sink to the bottom of the container and remain there. The presence of water in almost any quantity will accelerate the decay of ethanol adulterated gasoline.

A liquid can be either a solution of two or more substances, or it can be a mixture of two or more substances. A mixture will often settle out, or separate, if left undisturbed. A solution will not separate, unless something changes its characteristics, which even small amounts of water added to gasohol will do. Gasohol contains co-solvents, which are substances that promote ethanol and gasoline to combine into a solution. The co-solvents may evaporate, or they may decay, or their effectiveness may be destroyed by the presence of too much moisture. The absence of free water does not guarantee that gasohol has not become hydrated to some degree, either before or after purchase.

[ModelT46]

I would go with "HEET". it works best. This spring I went to use my snow blower after a 3 inch snow fall. It had not been used since December. I got about 10 feet and the engine ran rough, then quit. I knew water was the problem. I put in some HEET, waited awhile. The engine started right up and ran smooth.

[signsup]

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but it has wandered a little off course anyways...what I'm reading is that the vent in the tank lid lets hot air out and then allows cold, moist air in. So closing the vent when not in use and opening the vent when in use has been suggested. Is there some sort of one way pop valve that would open when under pressure and release hot air, but then self seal and not allow fresh air in? Or does the tank need to vent all the time to allow proper gravity fuel flow?

[TXGOAT2]

HEET can certainly remove water from a fuel system, but it does not necessarily prevent breakdown of gasohol. If you store your car for extended periods over winter, adding HEET for the last trips in the Fall could help dry out the system prior to storage. It won't hurt anything, and starting the storage period with a dry system is a good idea. I's still want to use Stabil in a full tank of fresh gasoline just prior to storage.

[TXGOAT2]

A check valve could allow air out but not in, but that could lead to problems, and it would have to be removed prior to running the car.
Tape will do the same job, or you could use a toothpick or something like that. An insulated storage space will prevent wide temperature swings, which will reduce tank "breathing". Plugging the tank too tightly might lead to the tank collapsing due to internal vacuum during a cold spell. In most cases, storing with a near-full tank and and a product like Stabil is sufficient. Non-ethanol gas is better, and avoiding prolonged storage is probably best of all. I've had many empty or near empty plastic gas cans collapse due to cool nights. I now leave the cap slightly loose on them during the cool season.

[m_p_dean@yahoo.com]

Stabil with a full tank is my go-to.

[Daisy Mae]

I use ethanol free gas in my carb vehicles.
Stabilizers only go so far given that alcohol is exceedingly hydrophilic, not to mention condensation with less than full tanks.

Being a pilot, the easiest solution for me is to simply use the same preflight process... use your petcocks before starting, and drain some fuel into a clear glass jar...any water in the tank should settle into the bulb, and you can easily verify any contamination looking in the glass jar...any water will be readily visible at the bottom of the jar. You can then drain as appropriate. If no contamination, just toss it back in the tank.
Then open your feed to the carb, guaranteed water free gas.

If you don't like the cost of ethanol free gas (or can't get it), there's a very simple method you can use to remove the alcohol if you're that worried about it. Fill up a 5 gallon can of regular gas, but leave some room, and dump in a few cups of water, and let it sit for a day. Being hydrophilic, the alcohol will bind with the water....remove the water....no more alcohol. Of course, don't do this unless you know how to be careful messing with gas...but if equipped, is easy to do. Or, toss the whole mix in the tank and drain off via the sediment bowl petcock. Course, most people would find that to be too much trouble... hence...stabilizers LOL

[Kaiser]

As you take a closer look at the ingredients of Fuel additives or so called 'stabilisers', you'll find the main ingredient is..... wait for it.....
TADAA Alcohol !! (ethanol to be more precise) now i can hear your brain go "Huh WT* ?"
The explanation is as follows:
The ethanol is put in to make the Gas more 'green' i.e. a bit better for the environment, but the ethanol comes with two problems:
1- Some rubber products and for instance Shellac dissolve in ethanol, which is why so many old Volkswagens go up in flames these days (fuel lines and -pumps start to leak and dump gas right on the hot exhaust)
2- Ethanol likes to mix with water more than it likes gas, so if water is introduced in the 'gasohol' the alcohol absorbs it, which is o.k. until the ethanol is saturated with water, at which point the ethanol-water mix (in essence Wodka) will say goodbye to the gasoline and sinks to the bottom of the tank.
This ethanol-water mix can be quite corrosive to older aluminum and potmetal carburetors and fuel pumps and as an added bonus tends to attract bacteria that turn it into a jelly like substance that clogs op your small orifices like fuel passages and jets in the carb.

"Now why the heck would they put even more ethanol in the gas with those additives" i hear you scream at your screen, the answer is as simple as it is stupid (my opinion) : more ethanol will absorb more water before it will start to separate to the bottom of the tank.
Thats the whole story, wrap your head around that !