1911 starts hard

[Tom VanMeeteren]

My 1911 has always started with 2 chokes and then the third pull with the switch on, ALWAYS!!! Lately it won't start until the 10th or 15th pull on the crank. I cleaned and gapped the plugs ( not dirty) and charged the starting battery and still starts hard. Wires are new, coils give a good intense blue spark. This engine was completely overhauled about 10 years ago and has good compression with about 5000 miles on it. I have run out of ideas

[George House]

Open/richen the carb 1/8 turn ? Getting gas to the carb bowl ? Needle stuck to the seat ? Gas in your trash tank ?

[RGould1910]

Change the timer

[Jones in Aiken SC]

Yes check the timer. Have you kept it oiled? It may need cleaning. What kind of timer is it?

[Allan]

I had a similar problem with my 1912 van. It turned out to be the cork float on the Holley H1 carburetor had shrunk, making it loose on the hinge, and that way upset the float level/needle and seat setting.

Allan from down under.

[Tom VanMeeteren]

Update: I replaced the Anderson timer last nite and she starts on the 3rd pull of the crank. I'm also going to check the float in the carb as there is a little seep and I noticed a spot on the concrete floor.

[George House]

Tom, thats great news ! Plus the satisfaction of repairing a substandard Model T component. But I’m just curious; you stated ‘blue fire’ on the spark plugs and plenty of compression and this lead me assume a fuel problem. Were you able to ascertain the Anderson timer malfunction ? Over the years I’ve installed these timers in all my T s.

[John kuehn]

Maybe the plugs were Blue Crown?

[Moxie26]

What did the interior of the Anderson timer look like ???.... Condition of the contacts???, condition of the flapper???..... Any chance of cleaning those areas and reinstalling would have cured your problem???...... Thanks in advance.

[Tom VanMeeteren]

Actually what I did was clean the Anderson timer. It was coated with oil inside from a slight leak in the cam seal. I also installed a home made grease jerk arrangement on the back of the fan shaft, this was contributing to the mess around the timer area. Also had the carb (NH) off yesterday and readjusted the float. It seemed a little high which was probably causing it to dribble a bit. I started it yesterday several times from cold and on the third crank it was running. Great news as I had open heart surgery a year ago on a 77 year old heart.

[George House]

Very good. Thanks for the update. It’ll help us all. I don’t know if the modern cam gear cover plate seal would fit on a 1911 gear cover plate but that Anderson needs to be oil free. Just dab a little vasoline on the 4 contacts and flapper occasionally. And, of course, you’ve removed that round brass shield behind the commutator.

[NealW]

I don’t know if the modern cam gear cover plate seal would fit on a 1911 gear cover plate but that Anderson needs to be oil free. Just dab a little vasoline on the 4 contacts and flapper occasionally. And, of course, you’ve removed that round brass shield behind the commutator.

The modern seal won't work in a 1911/1912 style cover. I ended up making one out of smaller diameter "rope" similar to what the vendors sell, along with RTV, and it made a nice seal that did not leak. I installed the brass shield and had no issues running an Anderson timer with it.