I tightened my bands, and now I don't have a neutral

[BuddyTheRoadster]

Hey folks,

I'm getting my T ready for the National Tour and installed a motor rebuilt by my late father. I don't know if he used stock clutches or Watts clutches--he used both at different times. I put the motor in, installed the bands very loose, and drove it around the block. Neutral creeped a little, and I adjusted according to the Murray Fahnestock article. I then took up the Kevlar bands so that I could put the floorboards back in, now the clutch drags enough that the car moves forward if I try to start it in neutral. Hand cranking has the same effect. I've tried screwing the clutch level screw more, but it doesn't seem to make a difference.

What should I do next?

[Norman Kling]

It is normal on a level surface for it to creep a little in neutral. It should not move if the parking brake is all the way back. Always chock the wheel when you crank and keep the parking brake on. When cranking. Another thing which will help keep it from creeping is to park the car with the brake forward if you are on level and chock the wheels when parked. This will force the oil from between the clutch disks and then you pull back the parking lever for cranking. It will be easier to crank as well.
Norm

[TXGOAT2]

Wouldn't a tight Low band cause the car to creep?

The pedals should go down to within an inch to an inch and a half of the floor board when pressed down with your foot.

The clutch and the bands and the parking brakes and the linkage must be adjusted correctly for the controls to work as they should and to prevent damage to the transmission drums.

[speedytinc]

Messing with the fingers isn't the first thing to do. Check all the linkage adjustments, make sure they are in spec.
When you get it started are the triple gears noisier than you remember?
Feel free to call me or come by work. Many questions.

[BuddyTheRoadster]

This is a new motor that was never run, so I don't have a benchmark. It's got noisy timing gears though. I don't have your phone number so I'll DM you mine.

[TWrenn]

Bet anything the low band is too tight.
And the low band linkage is likely out of adjustment.

The "3 fingers" are high speed adjustment.
Set up your low gear first then worry about the 3 fingers. If the trans doesn't slip or "struggle" to engage in high promptly when you pop the clutch peddle it should be fine.

[Allan]

The 1.5" clearance of the pedals/floorboard slot is just a stating point, rather than an end setting.
Over the 100 year life of many of our T's, drums wear, pedal ramps and notches wear pedals bend, floorboard slots are "adjusted" making the measurement somewhat vague in operation.
The bands need to be adjusted to operate correctly, and the pedal height will be whatever it is. If that causes problems, the wear in components needs addressing.

Allan from down under.

[TXGOAT2]

My point is that Model Ts do not normally have a "high pedal" with a short travel such as is the case with more modern vehicles.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Looks like you overtightened your bands. You then changed the clutch finger adjustment in an attempt to remedy things. So now you have both items improperly adjusted. Go back and reset the clutch fingers to the 13/16" factory spec., then loosen up your bands. Also, be sure your clutch linkage is not applying any pressure to the clutch shaft while in high gear. Meaning, your clutch pedal should have free play while in high.