Holley G won't fit on an 09/10 Intake. - Now what??

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Well, I changed-out my hi-flow aluminum intake manifold for the correct dog-leg intake ...and now my 'G' throttle linkage hits the manifold. I realize the 'G' is not a 5-ball, but has anyone else used a 'G' on an early manifold? -and if so, what did you do?? TIA!

[Kevin Pharis]

Looks like you need a 1/4”-1/2” thick spacer…

[Steve Jelf]

#3062 is supposed to fit all years. But that's from the 8-5-29 parts book. Obviously the part changed over the years. Maybe an intake from the Holley G years would work.

[RGould1910]

Id use a spacer between the carb and intake. Perhaps multiple gaskets enuf to clear. I used a brass spacer but thats a bit of work to shape. Make sure the mixture fork still enters the cap in the new position and you need to slightly modify your fuel line and choke wire and use longer carb bolts. You could always replace the arm and shaft if you have a shorter one or cut and shorten the existing arm. Solder would probably hold if you make v cuts or a long angled cut.
Looks like Kevin beat me to the punch. Ha!

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Looks like you need a 1/4”-1/2” thick spacer…

Id use a spacer between the carb and intake. Perhaps multiple gaskets enuf to clear. I used a brass spacer but thats a bit of work to shape. Make sure the mixture fork still enters the cap in the new position and you need to slightly modify your fuel line and choke wire and use longer carb bolts. You could always replace the arm and shaft if you have a shorter one or cut and shorten the existing arm. Solder would probably hold if you make v cuts or a long angled cut.
Looks like Kevin beat me to the punch. Ha!

Thanks guys. We have a 3D printer in the shop so we definitely could print one in a couple of hours. May just do that.

[Corey Walker]

You could bend a curve in your throttle rod to clear the manifold then weld a little piece in the middle if it needs to be longer. You might use a reproduction throttle rod instead of modifying your original one. I took a reproduction throttle rod and re-bent one end then added a piece in the middle to lengthen it. You can’t see it because it’s hidden between the cylinders. I made a pattern out of a coat hanger, fits a U&J.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

You could bend a curve in your throttle rod to clear the manifold then weld a little piece in the middle if it needs to be longer. You might use a reproduction throttle rod instead of modifying your original one. I took a reproduction throttle rod and re-bent one end then added a piece in the middle to lengthen it. You can’t see it because it’s hidden between the cylinders. I made a pattern out of a coat hanger, fits a U&J.

The issue is bigger than just making a new rod. Look a the picture closely, -the lever hits the manifold casting which only allows for it to move about a ¼ inch.

[speedytinc]

Is the issue from a repop manifold, or were the throttle arms originally shorter on the correct carb?
The spacer idea sounds like a winner.

[Rich P. Bingham]

Introduced in 1914, the Holley G is significantly larger than the models that preceded it.

[JTT3]

Just an observation very cold water seems to shrink things, have you tried that? Hehehe

[ModelTWoods]

Brent, look on the 'parts for sale' forum. Mark Chaffin has posted an intake manifold extension that may help.

[Allan]

Mark's extension will have the carb set waay further back than needed for the throttle arm to clear the manifold. The much bigger internal bore is also unwanted in this application. The suggested thick alloy plate and a gasket each side of it is all that is needed, plus a couple of longer bolts!

Allan from down under.