Modern Driveshaft spool bearing assembly

[Bryant]

Knocking around ideas in my head.
Has anyone attempted to build their own driveshaft spool with modern bearings?
if so, are there any bearing part numbers for the bearing race, conical bearing, sealed bearing, shims and collar?
I know they make kits but kind of wondering if I can get the internals and then do the machine work myself.
I am not sure if it would save money or time.
Also has anyone tried one of the various setups offered before and how did it work out?

Bryant

Photo courtesy of Langs old car parts
currently no longer available

[greenacres36]

I’ve made a couple of them, but for the life of me, I cannot remember the bearing numbers. I know I used Timken bearings because I wanted something quality. I also bored the gear side in reference to the flange that the housing bolts to the rear end housing. Some people I think go from the end but I don’t think that’s a very good idea. If nobody else posts those bearing sizes, I’ll try to look them up in the meantime.
Just beware, they’re pretty hard. I cut mine with carbide, but it’s still pretty tough. Ceramic would probably work pretty well also. But I don’t think it’s necessary.

I did not use any shims in mine

[RajoRacer]

The photo you posted, Bryant was a Fun Projects Adjustable pinion kit - he also produced a "plug & play" kit. Chaffin's in currently offering a "plug & play" kit & Snyder's is offering an adjustable kit similar to John's.

[Bryant]

Thank you Steve
I did see other vendors had kits to get the job done. I still may go that route.
Just pondering a machine job.

Bryant

[Steve Jelf]

John Regan's Fun Projects bearing came in both adjustable and non-adjustable versions. The adjustable was for folks who thought they should have to adjust something. I used the other, which cost less.

[Allan]

Before the tapered bearing kits were made available, I used to make my own using ball bearings. The housing was machined to make them a press fit. The rear bearing was a thrust bearing, and I machined a fitted a collar to go between the two bearings so there was no need for the standard three piece thrust bearing.
Because the bearings were in imperial measurements, they were expensive, especially the thrust bearing at the rear. It worked well, but the new ones are simpler and cheaper.

Allan from down under.

[Original Smith]

What is wrong with the original Ford design?

[TrentB]

The problem with the original Ford design is wear. Wear inside the roller bear housing, and wear of the roller bearing itself. More than .005” wear in either of these two parts results in excessive runout of the driveshaft pinion. This makes it much more difficult to setup the proper ring and pinion clearances.

If NOS driveshaft housings and roller bearings were readily available, then the original Ford design would be fine. But if all you have to work with are used, worn bearings, then something like the Funprojects design is the way to go.

Just one more thing. The late exposed bolt spools are hard. Before John Regan could machine original spools for the bearings, he had to have the spools annealed.

Respectfully Submitted,

Trent Boggess

[Bryant]

What is wrong with the original Ford design?

I don't remember suggesting there was, but to be clear there is nothing wrong with the original.

Bryant

[Allan]

Like Trent says, finding good usable original spools, bearings and shaft sleeves is nigh on impossible, so a way around this is entirely acceptable to me.

Allan from down under.

[big2bird]

What is wrong with the original Ford design?

Ford stopped supplying parts.

[Steve Jelf]

What is wrong with the original Ford design?

At the time I needed a replacement, I lacked the skill to use the original design. John Regan's bearing was a better choice because I was able to deal with it.

[Daisy Mae]

Timely topic.... as I'm in the process of rebuilding my '14 rear end.... curious about this topic too, particularly as to suggestions/ recommendations as to the different versions out there for a closed spool....

[Bryant]

looks like it is offered for the early models also.

T2587-M.jpg (40.2 KiB) Viewed 3724 times

then there is the glue in Cartridge type said to be available for both closed and open spools.

Bryant

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

When these replacement bearings first came available, it was common to advice to delete the pin from the u-joint attachment to the driveshaft. It was also advised to remove the thrust flange from the torque tube bushing, letting the split collar shown in your two pictures do the work of keeping the driveshaft from drifting back, towards the rear end. Do NOT do either of these things. Fit the u-joint and adjust the bushing flange thickness the same as you would a stock driveshaft rebuild. Under some circumstances, the split collar will be incapable of properly retaining the driveshaft.

[Craig Leach]

Hi Bryant,
The first modern pinion I purchased was bored off center and gave me fits trying to set the gear lash because every time re-installed the
drive shaft it changed! when I took it apart to figure out what was going on I decided to make my own. Once I figured out the issue I used it
to my advantage & just rotated the spool to get the lash I wanted. That was in 2017 & it's doing just fine. I have not used the one I built yet.
I did make some notes. I used a piece of axle tube to make the spacers & the shims are not in the pic. I used a two piece collar & machined
a recess in the shaft to lock it in place. The two piece collar requires some grinding on the screw heads to clear the I.D. of the tube.

collar in the pic is the one that came in the kit.

I'm not sure the juice is worth the squeeze but it is a fun project. The last two rear ends I put together I used the stock bearings that were in
super good condition. The modern set up is nice if you have a otherwise good shaft with a issue @ the pinion area.
Craig.

[Bryant]

Hey thanks for the info.
I am having a hard time reading what I believe are the bearing part numbers on your drawing.
Would you be able to list them for me if you get a chance?
I appreciate it and thanks!
Bryant

[Craig Leach]

Hi Bryant,
Here's a little more info, The bushing I think was from Ace Hardware & didn't need much work to fit.

I leave the ball bearing sealed & should have enough grease to last a life time & will keep engine oil out of the rear end & gear oil out of the
tube.
Craig.

[Bryant]

Craig
Thank you so much!
I will be looking these bearings up with my parts supplier.

Bryant