Well I am almost there!

[Mike S]

Thanks to your help, I just am about to complete, for now, the necessary issues to run the car.

I replaced the timer, the wiring harness to the coils, the coils themselves (and my great friend, George Akin) put the old ones back into decent shape. I replaced the spark plugs and George cleaned the old ones for me. I had the carb overhauled, and it is back on the car. I repaired the choke/mixture rod and it is back in shape. I cleaned the fuel tank to get rid of the rust and it looks clean and no rust appears for now.

One final question is that the brakes were sloppy, and you had to push the pedal darned near through the floorboard to stop effectively. I took the transmission cover off this morning (still waiting on the screen and magnet, but that is for later). I was told that the brake adjustment nut has some form of indent that activates every half turn. Well, not so on this car. I could adjust the brake bands with no resistance. I think I could almost turn the nut by hand versus using a wrench.

I am going to take the brake pedal out but want to order the correct bolt/nut for this 1927 Coupe. I have noticed in the major parts suppliers websites that there are bolts with lock nuts and bolts with castle nuts. I have ordered parts that either don't go on this car or were not quite the right ones. If someone could point me in the right direction as to what i need, I would appreciate it.

Mike

[TXGOAT2]

It is normal for the brake pedal to go to within about 1" of the floor, but it should not touch the floor. Pedal effort is higher than what is normal for modern cars, but not extremely so. I'd guess that if your adjustment has no detent feel, it won't hold an adjustment. Pictures would be helpful. All of the pedals will have a longer travel than most modern cars. Adjustment isn't rocket science, but it is important that it be done correctly Badly worn bands, if present, will need replaced.

[Mike S]

It is normal for the brake pedal to go to within about 1" of the floor, but it should not touch the floor. Pedal effort is higher than what is normal for modern cars, but not extremely so. I'd guess that if your adjustment has no detent feel, it won't hold an adjustment. Pictures would be helpful. All of the pedals will have a longer travel than most modern cars. Adjustment isn't rocket science, but it is important that it be done correctly Badly worn bands, if present, will need replaced.

There is no detent at all. I tightened the band where it is about 1/8 inch off the transmission but I don't think it will hold long-term due to the lack of a stop on the nut. I'm going to add disc brakes to it since we live in Tennessee in the hills and I'm more interested in safety versus originality. So, when I take the brake pedal out to send it to Texas T folks, I want to replace whatever is needed when I put it back in place, especially since the lack of a detent bothers me. The car is all put back together but I want to correct this issue long-term.

[speedytinc]

Look @ the service manual.
The band nut has 2 V detents. The Special washer has a raised bump to hold itself in the nut to maintain the adjustment. That washer has a raised tab that fits into a slot cut into the shaft. (probably on the underside you cant see)
The correct washer can be on backwards & not lock. The detent in the washer can be worn flat enough to no longer lock. It can be re-formed with a dull chisel.
If that special washer was replaced with a regular flat washer, every time you press the brake pedal, the nut will loosen, losing adjustment.
If you get a repop washer, try on the shaft before final assembly. They typically dont fit & need some filing to fit correctly.
Also consider new springs. Old springs are usually deformed shorter, not giving enough tension between the band ears.

P.S. Be very careful not to drop any of the hardware into the tranny. A lost piece will absolutely ruin you day. Then hours of fishing begins.

[walber]

The brake pedal shaft should have a special washer that keys to the slot in the shaft and has a dimple for the detent in the special nut. Together they hold the adjustment.

Parts at Lang's are

Washer https://www.modeltford.com/item/3415.aspx

Nut https://www.modeltford.com/item/3426.aspx

[Steve Jelf]

The proper adjusting nut #3426 (09-27) has a groove across its face. The proper washer #3415 has a raised spot that keeps the nut from turning. Wrench #1917 is the official tool for this, but there's a ratchet version that's less tiresome.

[Steve Jelf]

Watch for 5-Z-829 at swap meets. Much handier than the usual wrench.

[John kuehn]

The correct nut and washer as shown in the parts supplier pictures is a must for the correct brake adjustment, action and service for a Model T band adjustment!

Someone just put a nut on yours and dismissed it as OK. Might be a good idea to replace the three springs that are also used on the pedal shafts also. The notches and indents on the washers are put there for a reason.

When you replace the nuts,springs and washers stuff plenty of rags in the transmission to catch any small parts you may accidentally drop in there. You will definitely be glad you did when a washer slips out of you fingers!

When in doubt always read the Ford service manual and check the pictures in it closely.

[Mike S]

Thanks guys! I have to confess that I didn't know very much about repairing automobiles, especially the antique variety, until my wife brought this car home for me. Now I have had a crash course in doing things to both repair and enhance the vehicle. The closest that I came to this was when I was in high-school in the very early '70's, and they had small engine repair in shop class when a lawnmower engine cannot compare to this adventure. I am drinking out of the fire hose trying to get this external beauty in good shape and I am truly and thankful for your help and advice from the wise to this novice.

I know I ask questions that are probably asinine to you guys, but your advice to make me better and more proficient are invaluable to me, so please tolerate my questions!

EDIT: Parts are ordered. I just cannot think of a regular nut on this allowing my brake adjustment to wander itself in the wilderness!

[Dan Hatch]

What part of Tn? There are a bunch of good people with Ts in certain places in Tn. Look for a club near you.
Watch out for some of the repro parts.

[Norman Kling]

Even when the brakes are in good condition, you should push the low pedal to use the engine compression to help you stop. Pump the brake pedal so that the lining will not get hot and the oil will get to the band. Important, because you could heat up the drum and cause it to crack if it gets too hot Usually not a problem because the car is slower than most and you can leave plenty of stopping distance. But remember that even with disc brakes you are only stopping the rear wheels and they are narrow tires with limited tread on the ground, so leave plenty of stopping distance.
Norm

[Mike S]

What part of Tn? There are a bunch of good people with Ts in certain places in Tn. Look for a club near you.
Watch out for some of the repro parts.

I'm in Kodak, just north of Sevierville.

[RVA23T]

Someone just put a nut on yours and dismissed it as OK. Might be a good idea to replace the three springs that are also used on the pedal shafts also. The notches and indents on the washers are put there for a reason.

When you replace the nuts,springs and washers stuff plenty of rags in the transmission to catchany small parts you may accidentally drop in there. You will definitely be glad you did when a washer slips out of you fingers!

And there is a good chance whoever used the wrong nut failed to stuff any rags and the correct nut and washer are down in the pan or could be riding "round" on the magneto, hence the wrong nut.

[Mike S]

I have not yet changed the oil. So the question is when I drain the oil, is there a product that can clean up the oil in the transmission (without damage to the parts) where I can use a bore scope type of product to inspect the bottom of the unit? I don't know the history of this car and want to get it as reliable as possible.

I might be overthinking all of this but while I am working on it, maybe it is time to do things right.

Mike

[TXGOAT2]

Draining the oil with the engine at operating temperature should be sufficient.

[walber]

If the oil looks normal - drain and replace while it is warm should be fine.

However if it is sludgy or gross, you might consider draining the oil and then removing the inspection pan at the bottom of the pan and check for excess sludge or debris that you might be able to wipe out. That lower pan has oil in the dips so have a drip an ready to catch the cup of oil it holds. Make sure you have a gasket for it.

You will actually want a full gasket set for the engine. They aren't overly expensive and what you don't use this week will end up needed later.

[speedytinc]

I have not yet changed the oil. So the question is when I drain the oil, is there a product that can clean up the oil in the transmission (without damage to the parts) where I can use a bore scope type of product to inspect the bottom of the unit? I don't know the history of this car and want to get it as reliable as possible.

I might be overthinking all of this but while I am working on it, maybe it is time to do things right.

Mike

Transmission & crankcase oil all run together in a T.
Most of the crud settles around the inspection cover horse shoes. So if you are feeling ambitious, pull the crank case cover & horse shoes & clean that area. While open, check the fit of the rod bearings & tighten them up.
Junk under the transmission settles in the catch above the drain plug. A borescope of that area is probably a waste of time.

When I get a new, unknown T motor, I typically enjoy it until I sense an actual problem, then pull it. Doing an overhaul of whats necessary or a complete rebuild as determined. Then its as new reliable for decades.

[Allan]

In the meantime, you might fit a second nut on the pedal shaft to act as a locknut. Adjust the bands so the brakes work as they should, and run the second nut up to act as a jam nut. Then you can do the other stuff at your leisure. Do stuff rags around the drop off point so your extra nut does not end up in the inky depths.

Allan from down under.

[John kuehn]

REMEMBER THAT A MODEL T DOES NOT HAVE REAL BRAKES! Learn to drive it the way it is and then decide if you want to add disc brakes which some do. Average speed for a stock T is around 30-40 MPH. And that may be too fast for some people. They don’t have electronic ignition that thinks for you and YOUR the one who thinks for your T. Read and study the T service manual.
Ask the parts suppliers to send you a parts catalog to educate yourself on parts and information. You can learn what goes where for your T.
The Ford service manual is extremely helpful by the way to learn what NOT to do to work on your car. And yes there may be some washers or even a nut stuck on the flywheel magnets from long ago when somebody dropped one years back. That could have happened! Take your time and learn as you go. You can do it!